Bussmann Auxiliary Fuse and Relay Module Installation

I don't know the rules regarding outside links. You'd have to check with the administrator @Chris .

For incandescent and halogen bulbs, small changes in voltage do make a big difference.

First off, power = voltage^2 / resistance.
Hence going from 12 volts to 13.2 volts at the bulb (engine running) will result in a 21% increase in power.

Second, incandescent and halogen bulbs become more efficient the harder they are driven. I don't know the actual formula, but it has to do with the change in filament temperature changing the black body emission spectrum more into the visible range.

Manufacturers of incandescent and halogen bulbs have to balance efficiency vs life. This is why people complain about the brightest headlight bulbs burning out quickly or about how long life bulbs aren't bright enough.

Halogen bulbs are the same as an incandescent but are filled with inert gas and iodine/bromine gas. The halogen gas actually extends the life of the filament at higher temperatures (increasing efficiency and brightness) by re-depositing evaporated tungsten, so the manufacturers can run the bulbs far hotter (or longer life) than a typical incandescent.

LEDs typically have their own internal voltage regulator and are typically not affected by small changes in voltage.
Great info! Before I installed the Bussman I was considering upgrading my headlights. After getting proper voltage to the headlights, the improvement was really noticeable and I didn't need to do the upgrade.

I have that same clamp on meter.
 
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Here's a picture of the small Bussman.
82492
 
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Added a fused circuit to the Bussmann. All you have to do is:
  • Disconnect power
  • Run wire
  • Crimp and seal
  • Click terminal into panel
  • Insert fuse
  • Reconnect power
And you're done. Takes 5 minutes

In this case I have a 15 amp circuit to power my new stereo. Since the stereo has an internal relay, this circuit is fuse only, much like the amplifier I previously installed.

20190524_233258.jpg
 
I'm planning on doing my TJ also I been searching for info here's a link of a write up it has a lot of info http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473

I've also read through this guy's Bussman writeup, and it is definitely the most in-depth I have found, including links to parts, tools, and extremely detailed instructions and photos on how to put everything together. But sometimes it's a little much. I priced out everything he calls for and it's over $500 including all the fancy individual connectors and parts, when most wires would do fine with a butt splice or quick disconnect. But it's definitely the cleanest DIY setup i've seen and is a good source for inspiration.
 
I've also read through this guy's Bussman writeup, and it is definitely the most in-depth I have found, including links to parts, tools, and extremely detailed instructions and photos on how to put everything together. But sometimes it's a little much. I priced out everything he calls for and it's over $500 including all the fancy individual connectors and parts, when most wires would do fine with a butt splice or quick disconnect. But it's definitely the cleanest DIY setup i've seen and is a good source for inspiration.
I agree I priced everything also. I also searched around and I was able to cut that price down to about $190 based on the setup I'm planning on doing.
 
I could potentially see $500 if I fully loaded up a RFRM, but on an RTMR that just seems excessive. Though having those waterproof connectors that can easily be removed would be a nice feature to have
 
Sorry for the hijack but I would like to confirm my math calculating the fuse I need for my winch.
According to warn, my winch draws 478 amps, 478x 1.25 (125%) = 597.5, so a 600amp fuse is what I need?
 
Sorry for the hijack but I would like to confirm my math calculating the fuse I need for my winch.
According to warn, my winch draws 478 amps, 478x 1.25 (125%) = 597.5, so a 600amp fuse is what I need?
That should be reasonable. May be worth picking up a slightly bigger one as a spare as well, in case the 600 amp blows at the worst time
 
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Sorry for the hijack but I would like to confirm my math calculating the fuse I need for my winch.
According to warn, my winch draws 478 amps, 478x 1.25 (125%) = 597.5, so a 600amp fuse is what I need?

FYI - almost no one running a jeep fuses their winch and I am not aware of any winch manufacturer catering to the offroad market that includes any discussion of fuses in its installation instructions. If wired properly it isn't really necessary.
 
Nice write-up! The mounting location you chose peaked my interest. I went with the smaller Bussman RTMR and chose the same location for mine. This project has been derailed by some higher priority projects, so I haven't gotten mine installed, but here's how I did my mounting bracket.

IMG_20191204_220143830_HDR.jpg

IMG_20191204_220154483_HDR.jpg


The bracket is made using 1/4" ABS. I order plastics from SIBE-R Plastic Supply
I started by mocking up the bracket shape using cardboard. Shaping in such a way that it uses the mounting holes for the OE Power Distribution of the RHD model TJ. After I got the cardboard mock-up, I just transferred it's overall shape and bend angles over to the ABS, then heated it for bending using a heat gun.

How did you route your wires through the firewall? I've got a few ideas for mine, but I haven't decided on which one I want to use. The simplest one I've considered is making use of the master cylinder blank using the Daystar firewall boot.

I'm planning on doing my TJ also I been searching for info here's a link of a write up it has a lot of info http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473

That is a really good write-up. Thanks for that.
 
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Nice write-up! The mounting location you chose peaked my interest. I went with the smaller Bussman RTMR and chose the same location for mine. This project has been derailed by some higher priority projects, so I haven't gotten mine installed, but here's how I did my mounting bracket.

View attachment 142737
View attachment 142738

The bracket is made using 1/4" ABS. I order plastics from SIBE-R Plastic Supply
I started by mocking up the bracket shape using cardboard. Shaping in such a way that it uses the mounting holes for the OE Power Distribution of the RHD model TJ. After I got the cardboard mock-up, I just transferred it's overall shape and bend angles over to the ABS, then heated it for bending using a heat gun.

How did you route your wires through the firewall? I've got a few ideas for mine, but I haven't decided on which one I want to use. The simplest one I've considered is making use of the master cylinder blank using the Daystar firewall boot.



That is a really good write-up. Thanks for that.
That is far better than my crappy brackets haha.

I ran my wires basically wherever they needed to go. Some wires go into the cabin through an unused grommet in the firewall; most of my current wires don’t even enter the cabin, because they go to lights or other components. My 4AWG main leads are strung along the back of the engine compartment up towards the cowl. They are fused at 125 amps directly behind the battery.
 
That is far better than my crappy brackets haha.

Nah. I think they look fine. Actually, when I first saw them, I was going to ask where you got them, or what was mounted there before, because they had a factory look.

I ran my wires basically wherever they needed to go. Some wires go into the cabin through an unused grommet in the firewall; most of my current wires don’t even enter the cabin, because they go to lights or other components. My 4AWG main leads are strung along the back of the engine compartment up towards the cowl. They are fused at 125 amps directly behind the battery.

Ah, okay. I'm open to ideas for it at this point, so I was going to pick your brain to see what you did. I get that though. I'm guessing all of mine will be going into the cabin.
 
Nah. I think they look fine. Actually, when I first saw them, I was going to ask where you got them, or what was mounted there before, because they had a factory look.



Ah, okay. I'm open to ideas for it at this point, so I was going to pick your brain to see what you did. I get that though. I'm guessing all of mine will be going into the cabin.
My wires that go into the cabin go through the same grommet as the rear windshield washer hose. There was plenty of space for extra wires on that one
 
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My wires that go into the cabin go through the same grommet as the rear windshield washer hose. There was plenty of space for extra wires on that one
Okay, cool. I'll have to check that out. I can't seem to recall where there they pass through at.
 
what are you doing to for circuits / switches that you want on switched power?