Camshaft Position Sensor - OEM Mopar 4897023AA not available. Are there any aftermarket brands that work?

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richard-jefferson

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Bethlehem, Pa
2003 Rubicon. Throwing codes P0340, P1391 and P0300. Running rough when calling for power (acceleration and upshifting) some backfiring. Cannot find a Mopar anywhere. Replaced CPS with a Delphi from rock auto. This made it much worse. I switched back to the old one after 10 miles. Does anyone have knowledge of what brand might work? Also, would it make a difference if i replaced the crankshaft position sensor at the same time with the same aftermarket brand?

I did read related threads, especially helpful was one from "sab" posted april 2, 2023. This went into great detail on the relearning process. I am making the assumption that I do not need to go through a relearning process because I did not replace or remove the synchronizer. I simply replaced the sending unit on top.
Thank you for any input.
 
Welcome to the forum! Your 2003 uses the JTEC+ PCM, so rather than a relearn function, it requires you to do a SET SYNC function. This should definitely be done with an aftermarket sensor. The PCM has a small tolerance for the timing of the cam and crank signals, and the aftermarket sensors don’t trigger exactly the same as the OEM. I think most can be made to work by doing the SET SYNC function described in the manual. I put that section of the manual in that thread in the TJ Resources you read.
 
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TheBoogieman said:
https://classicautoparts.ecrater.com/p/28878732/jeep-camshaft-position-sensor-4897023aa
Click to expand...

Thank you. I have sent that seller a message to see if the CPS is still available.
sab said:
Welcome to the forum! Your 2003 uses the JTEC+ PCM, so rather than a relearn function, it requires you to do a SET SYNC function. This should definitely be done with an aftermarket sensor. The PCM has a small tolerance for the timing of the cam and crank signals, and the aftermarket sensors don’t trigger exactly the same as the OEM. I think most can be made to work by doing the SET SYNC function described in the manual. I put that section of the manual in that thread in the TJ Resources you read.
Click to expand...
 
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sab said:
Welcome to the forum! Your 2003 uses the JTEC+ PCM, so rather than a relearn function, it requires you to do a SET SYNC function. This should definitely be done with an aftermarket sensor. The PCM has a small tolerance for the timing of the cam and crank signals, and the aftermarket sensors don’t trigger exactly the same as the OEM. I think most can be made to work by doing the SET SYNC function described in the manual. I put that section of the manual in that thread in the TJ Resources you read.
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Thank you sab. If the site the boogieman gave me has the sensor, Ill get that one. if not, ill try NAPA Echlin brand. If I get the one from NAPA and have to do a SET SYNC function, Ill have to track down a shop that has a
sab said:
Welcome to the forum! Your 2003 uses the JTEC+ PCM, so rather than a relearn function, it requires you to do a SET SYNC function. This should definitely be done with an aftermarket sensor. The PCM has a small tolerance for the timing of the cam and crank signals, and the aftermarket sensors don’t trigger exactly the same as the OEM. I think most can be made to work by doing the SET SYNC function described in the manual. I put that section of the manual in that thread in the TJ Resources you read.
Click to expand...

sorry, still figuring out how to post and reply here. Ill have to track down a shop that has a DRB. I assume that this tool is necessary to do the SET SYNC.
 
richard-jefferson said:
sorry, still figuring out how to post and reply here. Ill have to track down a shop that has a DRB. I assume that this tool is necessary to do the SET SYNC.
Click to expand...

Even with the OEM sensor, you may have to do the SET SYNC procedure. It's noted as part of the process for changing sensors, and due to production tolerances, some OEM sensors will require it and others won't. The forum collective has spent some time with the NGC controllers used in the last run of TJs (from 2005 to 2006) and aftermarket scan tools, and there are some much less expensive alternatives to a DRB III tool. There may also be some that can do the SET SYNC function, but I'm not aware of any mentions of that on the forum. Also, you may not actually need a tool that performs the SET SYNC function. With the NGC controller, there is a data channel called "CAM CRANK DIFFERENCE" that can be monitored, and simply rotating the OPDA with the engine running until that value is zero has cleared DTCs associated with the cam position sensor. There may be a similar data channel available with other scan tools. The tool that most forum members have experimented with is the thinkdiag 2 bi-directional scan tool. I'll tag you in that Resources thread and ask the others if they have used it on a JTEC+ PCM. Maybe they can help you figure it out.
 
I wanted to provide an update and a thank you to everyone. I ended up replacing the sensor with a NAPA Echlin brand. Ive driven it over 400 miles and so far so good. I did not do a set sync on it yet (still trying to find someone who has a tool that will do it). I also have not replaced the crankshaft position sensor yet but I purchased the NAPA Echlin brand one and will replace it for good measure shortly.
 
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If your crank sensor seems to work I would leave it alone. Mine died about 2-3 years ago and I replaced it with a NGK sensor. These are made in USA and appeared to be identical to the Mopar one I took out. Problem is i had a CEL every time rpm’s went over 3000. Swapped it out for a NAPA echelon with the same problem maybe even worse. Finally came across a new Mopar unit off eBay and it’s been fine ever since. Might be related to relearning but I had it at the dealer and an independent shop and neither had any clue.
 
sab said:
Even with the OEM sensor, you may have to do the SET SYNC procedure. It's noted as part of the process for changing sensors, and due to production tolerances, some OEM sensors will require it and others won't. The forum collective has spent some time with the NGC controllers used in the last run of TJs (from 2005 to 2006) and aftermarket scan tools, and there are some much less expensive alternatives to a DRB III tool. There may also be some that can do the SET SYNC function, but I'm not aware of any mentions of that on the forum. Also, you may not actually need a tool that performs the SET SYNC function. With the NGC controller, there is a data channel called "CAM CRANK DIFFERENCE" that can be monitored, and simply rotating the OPDA with the engine running until that value is zero has cleared DTCs associated with the cam position sensor. There may be a similar data channel available with other scan tools. The tool that most forum members have experimented with is the thinkdiag 2 bi-directional scan tool. I'll tag you in that Resources thread and ask the others if they have used it on a JTEC+ PCM. Maybe they can help you figure it out.
Click to expand...
 
Hi, I just wanted to give you an update. I could not find any of my friends or small shops that had a dbrIII. I read in the discussion that the Autel might work. I got the Autel MK 808S and it had the set sync function. Problem solved. i was out of range by about 13 degrees. running great now. Thanks for all of the help.
 
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richard-jefferson said:
I wanted to provide an update and a thank you to everyone. I ended up replacing the sensor with a NAPA Echlin brand. Ive driven it over 400 miles and so far so good. I did not do a set sync on it yet (still trying to find someone who has a tool that will do it). I also have not replaced the crankshaft position sensor yet but I purchased the NAPA Echlin brand one and will replace it for good measure shortly.
Click to expand...

I wanted to provide an update and solution this problem. Its been a couple thousand miles. The bottom line is that after replacing the camshaft position sensor it had to be resynced with a "SET SYNC" function on a scan tool. I thought that I was in the clear but it started getting progressively worse with back firing and loss of power. It also died on me when i was coasting in a construction area.. went to hit the gas and there was nothing. took abut 60 seconds to get it started again. I have replaced plugs (XP-985), Cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air filter (K&N), replaced the CrankShaft Position Sensor (Echlin). I found a OEM Camshaft position sensor with the synchronizer at "parts breakers" and ordered that. It was supposed to be here 2 days ago but UPS said it was delayed for a week. Go Figure. Lets talk about the "set sync" function. The shop notes say you need a DBR III for that function. Someone in tech notes said the Autel 808 would do it. After exhausting my friends and a couple of local shops, no one had DBR III. I ordered the Autel MK808S on Ebay for $412. Problem solved. It has that function for my Jeep. Easiest fix i could have imagined. It was reading "out of range" and showing a percentage of around 13 (target is 0). I loosened the hold down nut and rotated the whole assembly while watching the screen. Got it within 1 or 2 percent and says in range. Runs GREAT!! took her out and up the steep hills where she would have been backfiring and she took them like a champ. Well now i have a new scan tool which I'm sure will be a good investment and a spare Camshaft Position Sensor assembly and feel like its safe to drive on the highway again with my granddaughter in the back seat. Thank you all for your help and advice on this journey.
 
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Planning on ordering a camshaft position sensor just to have on hand, debating between NAPA Echlin and NTK. NAPA Echlin seems to be the common recommendation however I’ve came across a few comments saying NTK is actually the OE supplier for the CPS.
Which should I go with?
 
I originally sought recommendations from an "expert" on Just Answer back in September. They recommended NTK, BOSCH or DELPHI. I ordered a Delphi and can tell you that made things worse. I took it out in less than 5 miles. I can also tell you that I did not do the Set Sync procedure on it so I do not know if that would have made a difference. I then went to the NAPA Echlin brand and it worked better but still had glitches. when I finally broke down and bought the scanner that would do the set sync procedure it seemed to be running great. Now its started to have issues starting (not consistant) like its not getting gas and trying to backfire at the same time. However, Im thinking this might be due to some bad gas. I added 5 gal from a home can and the problem started after that. I added seafoam and a full tank of gas but I wont know if it was bad gas or not until I run through the gas and fill the tank a couple of times.
 
richard-jefferson said:
I originally sought recommendations from an "expert" on Just Answer back in September. They recommended NTK, BOSCH or DELPHI. I ordered a Delphi and can tell you that made things worse. I took it out in less than 5 miles. I can also tell you that I did not do the Set Sync procedure on it so I do not know if that would have made a difference. I then went to the NAPA Echlin brand and it worked better but still had glitches. when I finally broke down and bought the scanner that would do the set sync procedure it seemed to be running great. Now its started to have issues starting (not consistant) like its not getting gas and trying to backfire at the same time. However, Im thinking this might be due to some bad gas. I added 5 gal from a home can and the problem started after that. I added seafoam and a full tank of gas but I wont know if it was bad gas or not until I run through the gas and fill the tank a couple of times.
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Any diagnostic codes getting thrown when it has trouble starting? I would expect codes if it's related to the NAPA sensor...
 
sab said:
Any diagnostic codes getting thrown when it has trouble starting? I would expect codes if it's related to the NAPA sensor...
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Hi Sab. No codes being thrown. I rechecked the with set sync function and its within range.. its running between -1 and 1 with a target of 0. I did find an aftermarket mopar sensor at partsbreakers.com which they sold together with the oil pump drive. Im waiting to see if it straightens out with a couple tanks of fresh gas before i try out the used oem sensor.
 
That doesn’t sound like a sensor or sync problem if it’s not throwing a code.
 
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