Can a lunchbox locker be installed in a Dana 30 without removing the carrier?

GregBelleville

GregBelleville

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I think I've pretty much decided on installing a lunchbox in my front Dana 30 to improve off road traction. My plan is to go with the Powertrax No Slip. Eventually I plan to install a selectable locker in the rear either with a super 35 upgrade or after a Dana 44 swap (still looking for a good donor 44 at a reasonable price which is proving difficult).

My question is whether a lunchbox locker can be installed without removing the carrier from the axle or will the carrier definitely need to come out?

I'm hoping to hear from those of you who have done this install yourself and whether you had to pull the carrier or not.
 
Typically it can, yes. But depending on the gear ratio there's not always enough clearance away from the ring gear so it depends. But the carrier is close to being able to be removed anyway since you have to remove the axle shafts to install a lunchbox. Removing the bearing caps allows the carrier to be removed, just make sure you place the shims so you know which side they came out of and note the side they came off of and also the up/down position of the carrier bearing caps so they go back on exactly how they were installed. Torque the bearing cap bolts to 45 ft-lbs. after you're done if you remove them.

The carrier will be a little tight, it won't just pull out. Place a box-end wrench around one of the ring gear bolts and rotate the pinion gear from its driveshaft yoke (via a big screwdriver inserted into it) in the direction that will lever the carrier out by the wrench against the axle housing. Rotate the pinion in the direction so the wrench will try to tighten itself rather than loosen itself. That'll make sense when you use this procedure.
 
I don’t know what the cut off is, but my Dana 30 with 3.73 had to have the carrier removed.
 
With 4.88 gears it wasn't even close. The ring gear blocks the cross shaft so it has to come off. I've seen where people took a grinder to the ring gear to make a path for the cross shaft but I'd rather just pull it. Maybe it's possible with something like 3.07.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas, I'm running 3.73s right now, but it sounds like removing the carrier will be necessary. Admittedly this is a little intimidating since I've never done it, but as Jerry noted, it seems fairly straightforward as long as I keep note of the shims and bearing cap orientations?

Secondary question, can I get away with leaving the stock shafts as is, or will I be on borrowed time with a front locker? I know it can depend on driving style, and I tend to be careful with heavy throttle in situations where tires are slipping or starting to bounce around.
 
GregBelleville said:
Thanks for the replies fellas, I'm running 3.73s right now, but it sounds like removing the carrier will be necessary. Admittedly this is a little intimidating since I've never done it, but as Jerry noted, it seems fairly straightforward as long as I keep note of the shims and bearing cap orientations?

Secondary question, can I get away with leaving the stock shafts as is, or will I be on borrowed time with a front locker? I know it can depend on driving style, and I tend to be careful with heavy throttle in situations where tires are slipping or starting to bounce around.
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On mine the shims were on the in side of the bearing so I didn't have to worry, but you want to make sure you keep the outer bearing races on their respective sides as well as the caps. The caps are usually marked with a random letter...for example one will have an upright A on the cap and on the gasket surface next to it, and then on the other side the As well be sideways, so you match the cap with whichever side has the matching letter orientation.

Whats your tire size? Obviously it'll last longer on 31s than 35s,
easier on the skinny pedal and get out of it ASAP if it starts bucking but that's usually more of a rear axle issue. Try not to give it the beans with one tire jammed between two rocks and the steering at full lock.
 
GregBelleville said:
Secondary question, can I get away with leaving the stock shafts as is, or will I be on borrowed time with a front locker? I know it can depend on driving style, and I tend to be careful with heavy throttle in situations where tires are slipping or starting to bounce around.
Click to expand...
Chromoly shafts become a good idea once you install a locker with 33's. Until you can install the chromoly shafts just make sure to stay off the gas in 4Lo when the steering wheel is turned very far in either direction. That's when the axle shaft's ears and u-joints are stressed the most. That's how I broke a factory stub shaft's ear with a locker. I had to finish a 'very' tough trail in 3wd.

DSCF0048withArrow.jpg
 
freedom_in_4low said:
On mine the shims were on the in side of the bearing so I didn't have to worry, but you want to make sure you keep the outer bearing races on their respective sides as well as the caps. The caps are usually marked with a random letter...for example one will have an upright A on the cap and on the gasket surface next to it, and then on the other side the As well be sideways, so you match the cap with whichever side has the matching letter orientation.

Whats your tire size? Obviously it'll last longer on 31s than 35s,
easier on the skinny pedal and get out of it ASAP if it starts bucking but that's usually more of a rear axle issue. Try not to give it the beans with one tire jammed between two rocks and the steering at full lock.
Click to expand...

I'm on 33s
 
I’m on 31’s and put the original shafts back in.

I replaced my ring gear bolts when I put it all back together.

It wasn’t really hard. Just study up on you instructions so you’re ready.
 
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MountaineerTom said:
I’m on 31’s and put the original shafts back in.

I replaced my ring gear bolts when I put it all back together.

It wasn’t really hard. Just study up on you instructions so you’re ready.
Click to expand...

I think this is the way I will go as well to try and keep the costs down, more than willing to upgrade if I break something in the future.
 
GregBelleville said:
Thanks Kenneth, curious, did you go with chromoly shafts when you installed the lunchbox? How long you been running your setup?
Click to expand...
No, I reused all the original parts. I looked at the date on pictures of the install and verified it was in 2008. Wow it didn't seem that long ago.

The first pic shows the cross pin is blocked by the ring gear teeth, so I took the gear off for the installation. Be sure to use LockTite on the ring gear bolts and torque them to spec when reinstalling the ring gear.

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KennethS said:
No, I reused all the original parts. I looked at the date on pictures of the install and verified it was in 2008. Wow it didn't seem that long ago.

The first pic shows the cross pin is blocked by the ring gear teeth, so I took the gear off for the installation. Be sure to use LockTite on the ring gear bolts and torque them to spec when reinstalling the ring gear.

View attachment 458752


View attachment 458753

View attachment 458754
Click to expand...

Wow, so you've been running that lunchbox locker for 15 years and no issues?
 
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