Can anyone recommend a belly pan skid that works without any body lift?

chaz.t0

chaz.t0

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So after trying my hand at some rock-crawling last weekend, I am in love. However did dent up my factory skid plate. So I'm in search of a new one. Can anyone recommend a belly pan skid that works without any body lift?? Also are there any other skids I should invest in? I currently have a factory skid on the gas tank, skids on both differentials, and a custom aluminum skid over the gear box. Want to cover up anything else that's necessary. TIA
 
Rocks are all I do and I’ve banged up my diff cover and control arms pretty bad. I’ve also hit my steering box skid a far amount; so If you don’t have a steering box skid I would get one of those and add some diff and lower control arm mount protection

You already have and oil pan skid so that’s good and the stock fuel tank cover will hold up for a little while. As for the stock transmission crossmember/skid goes, if you are ok with spending the money, adding weight, and gaining minimal clearance; Barnes4x4 makes a decent steel bolt in option.

The best option would be to keep running the stock one until you save up enough to really make the aftermarket skid worth it and go with the Savvy or UCF unit.

I personally run the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum and I still end up dragging over some obstacles. I’d love to have the savvy skid just to have the stand alone crossmember.
 
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Lax22 said:
I personally run the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum and I still end up dragging over some obstacles. I’d love to have the savvy skid just to have the stand alone crossmember.
Click to expand...
NOTE: You can add a cross-member with any skid.
 
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B00mb00m said:
NOTE: You can add a cross-member with any skid.
Click to expand...
True; but Have you tried adding one to a skid that’s not designed to use a crossmember?

My neighbor is in the process of building a crossmember using the universal kit and I’d rather pay the premium to have it done right out of the box. I’m also lazy.
 
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Go with aluminum. Depending on your jeep, savvy makes a great setup

image000001(2).jpg
 
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Lax22 said:
Rocks are all I do and I’ve banged up my diff cover and control arms pretty bad. I’ve also hit my steering box skid a far amount; so If you don’t have a steering box skid I would get one of those and add some diff and lower control arm mount protection

You already have and oil pan skid so that’s good and the stock fuel tank cover will hold up for a little while. As for the stock transmission crossmember/skid goes, if you are ok with spending the money, adding weight, and gaining minimal clearance; Barnes4x4 makes a decent steel bolt in option.

The best option would be to keep running the stock one until you save up enough to really make the aftermarket skid worth it and go with the Savvy or UCF unit.

I personally run the UCF extra clearance skid in aluminum and I still end up dragging over some obstacles. I’d love to have the savvy skid just to have the stand alone crossmember.
Click to expand...
Does the extra clearance skid require a body lift?
 
There are some nice aluminum options available. For engine/ trans skid, I used skid row offroad. I wish it wasnt so heavy, but it also protects the exhaust and can be used with many other center skids
 
TJ Starting said:
Does the extra clearance skid require a body lift?
Click to expand...
I have a 1-inch body lift and I didn’t need to do any extra trimming or clearance the tub anywhere. I have read where people have been able to run the UCF extra and ultra high clearance skids with no body lift; however, it takes more work than just bolting it on and going.

I have the savvy cable shifter, adjustable uppers on the front and rear, angled rear track bar mount, aftermarket rear driveshaft and relocation brackets for the rear shocks at the axle end. along with the 2.5 inch OME lift. I have no drivability issues on the street but I had to play with the pinion angles to get them right. I have fixed lowers and I hope to upgrade them eventually.

I’m not an expert; but based on my personal experience, the body lift does make it easier and if you get one, go with an aluminum puck design.
 
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Lax22 said:
I have read where people have been able to run the UCF extra and ultra high clearance skids with no body lift; however, it takes more work than just bolting it on and going.
Click to expand...
Manual tranny, uhmmm people often think they no have BL at all when they have 1” of. If i hasn’t have one of those kits I may think about hold my comments.
1.25” BL is required per the instruction sheet.
 
Lax22 said:
True; but Have you tried adding one to a skid that’s not designed to use a crossmember?

My neighbor is in the process of building a crossmember using the universal kit and I’d rather pay the premium to have it done right out of the box. I’m also lazy.
Click to expand...
I had the UCF i could've easily modified to work with an xmember but went with an aluminum Savvy style skid that offered improvements upon the UCF in pretty much every way.
 
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Blaine has educated alot of us on how to build your own cross-member out of some DOM tube and auto fab bushings. Definitely saves some $$. Also, the transfer case plays a factor... the 241 is larger than a 231.
 
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