Can I leave the transfer case attached while removing 32RH transmission?

[indio]

I'm ready to remove my 32RH auto trans from my 1998 TJ for a rebuild. The frame to skid plate bolts are all out - yeah!

Most videos show first removing the skid plate from the transmission / transfer case mounting point. And then removing the tcase from the trans.

Why remove the transfer case from the transmission? Why not remove transmission / transfer case as a unit, and then detach when there is easy access once removed, instead of trying to do it on your back under the Jeep?

Or for that matter, why even unbolt the skid plate from the transmission / transfer case? Seems like the entire assembly can be unbolted from the engine, and use the skidplate as a support for the jack.

Is there a reason why I need to dissemble all these things while under the Jeep, instead of doing it once pulled?

 

[freedom_in_4low]

the skidplate being out of the way will help with disconnecting the front driveshaft as well as various harnesses and linkages, so I would absolutely pull that.

As for the t-case...it could be done in one piece, but you'll be manhandling both their weights together when you pull them out (and maybe put them back in if you do that the same way). I think I read the transfer case weighs something like 70 pounds (felt 50-ish to me, but I'm really bad about conflating weight with awkwardness), so I'd rather the transmission weigh 70 pounds less when I'm dealing with it.

 

[RustyAutoholicGuy]

If you drain the transfer case first it helps. I've removed and installed my transfer case several times, take the time to go ahead and remove it first. Your going to need to do some wiggling to get your 32RH out and having the weight of the NP231 removed is going to really help with that!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It would be impossible to unbolt/remove the transmission/t-case with the skidplate still attached, you couldn't get to the bolts with it in the way. You could however leave the tcase attached to the transmission and remove both together as an assembly.

 

[Vinman]

I removed the 6 speed and Rubicon case as an assembly to do the clutch last year. I used a floor jack with home made cradle, placed it directly under the tranny mount and used a ratchet strap to hold everything together. Did it by myself without too much grief and no blood was shed

 

[Lou]

It’s not harder to remove them together with the right jack. It’s also not much harder to install them together. If it was a manual I’d say install just the tranny because it makes it easier to line everything up. Autos are much easier to install IMO, since no input shaft/pilot bearing.

 

[Rubicon John]

I’ve never removed a transfer case from a transmission before removing from a vehicle.

That being said, I have the luxury of working overhead with the vehicle on a lift and an adjustable transmission jack along with pole jacks when necessary.

You can certainly remove it as an assembly but I don’t know if I’d be comfortable doing that while laying under a vehicle.

 

[indio]

Thanks for the advice. I ended up removing the skidplate, but kept the tcase mounted to the trans, and removed as one unit. I used a cheap but effective trans jack from Harbor Freight.

Removing one rusted skid plate bolt was the hardest part of the job. What a bear that was. Thankfully the rest came out with application of heat. Trans is out now, cleaned up and ready for a rebuild.

 

[indio]

I'm wondering is it common to have the torque converter opened up and rebuilt as well? Or maybe the shop can just flush and test the converter sufficiently, to know if it's in good shape?

 

[AMS417]

I'm wondering is it common to have the torque converter opened up and rebuilt as well? Or maybe the shop can just flush and test the converter sufficiently, to know if it's in good shape?

Shops don't remain converters as a rule. Most are welded together at the seem. Some converters get sent out to be rebuilt by a specialist. Buy new, its not much more $ and the quality is a lot higher. You want a new converter in every rebuilt trans 100%.

I used to work for a reman company as a kid rebuilding converters for diesel engines in 3/4 ton and larger trucks. The little stuff (passenger cars) wouldn't be cost effective to rebuild. Its a huge pain in the ass to do it, it was a 60,000 sqft factory that I worked in, that was a subsidiary or a large engine / trans company. I hated that job, worked there like 4 months, and all my socks were pink from the fluid i was covered in daily.

 

[indio]

I'm confused why the high capacity transmission pan is so expensive for the 32RH:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/12518_71_07.htm
In comparison, essentially the same pan (for CJ/YJ earlier 904/999 trans) is around $100 less:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52118_1000_07.htm
Has anyone tried the much less costly high capacity CJ/YJ pan on the later TJ 32RH trans? (My understanding is 904/999/32RH are all same family and share some parts.) It kicks me spending an extra $100 for basically the same thing.

 

[H_E_H]

Thanks for the advice. I ended up removing the skidplate, but kept the tcase mounted to the trans, and removed as one unit. I used a cheap but effective trans jack from Harbor Freight.

Removing one rusted skid plate bolt was the hardest part of the job. What a bear that was. Thankfully the rest came out with application of heat. Trans is out now, cleaned up and ready for a rebuild.
View attachment 170064

I'm currently removing the transfer case from my 32RH transmission. Found this thread and noticed you used the same transmission jack I purchased from harbor freight. How did the transmission pan hold up resting on the lift? There's another transmission jack with four, adjustable arms that I'm thinking I should have purchased instead, though it's about $130 more than the jack I did buy.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'm currently removing the transfer case from my 32RH transmission. Found this thread and noticed you used the same transmission jack I purchased from harbor freight. How did the transmission pan hold up resting on the lift? There's another transmission jack with four, adjustable arms that I'm thinking I should have purchased instead, though it's about $130 more than the jack I did buy.

Support the engine/transmission assembly by a jack directly in front of, not under, the transmission pan. A single bottle jack or floor stand is enough. You'll want an E-10 extended torx bit adapter to get the transfer case's front top E-Torx bolt removed unless a previous owner swapped it for a conventional hex head bolt.

 

[H_E_H]

Support the engine/transmission assembly by a jack directly in front of, not under, the transmission pan. A single bottle jack or floor stand is enough. You'll want an E-10 extended torx bit adapter to get the transfer case's front top E-Torx bolt removed unless a previous owner swapped it for a conventional hex head bolt.

Thanks for the E-Torx reminder, Jerry! I still need to pick up that up. Regarding the tranny jack - I currently have a jack stand under the oil pan while I'm removing my transfer case and then transmission. In Indio's picture his transmission pan is resting on what appears to be a piece of wood/plank. In YouTube tranny removal videos involving this Harbor Freight transmission jack, I'm not seeing the actual removal happening and am not clear where I need to let the transmission rest on the jack. Thanks!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks for the E-Torx reminder, Jerry! I still need to pick up that up. Regarding the tranny jack - I currently have a jack stand under the oil pan while I'm removing my transfer case and then transmission. In Indio's picture his transmission pan is resting on what appears to be a piece of wood/plank. In YouTube tranny removal videos involving this Harbor Freight transmission jack, I'm not seeing the actual removal happening and am not clear where I need to let the transmission rest on the jack. Thanks!

Placing a piece of wood under and big enough to support the entire transmission pan and held up by a jack will be fine. Removing the transfer case once it's unbolted is not difficult as it's not nearly as heavy as the transmission is. Some just get underneath the transfer case and bench-press it out. The transmission jack will work great at that job, just keep in mind that angle is critical to the transfer case sliding right off the transmission vs. it seeming to still have a hidden but non-existent bolt still holding it.

 

[H_E_H]

Placing a piece of wood under and big enough to support the entire transmission pan and held up by a jack will be fine. Removing the transfer case once it's unbolted is not difficult as it's not nearly as heavy as the transmission is. Some just get underneath the transfer case and bench-press it out. The transmission jack will work great at that job, just keep in mind that angle is critical to the transfer case sliding right off the transmission vs. it seeming to still have a hidden but non-existent bolt still holding it.

My confidence removing the transmission with this jack just went up tenfold. Thank you for the reply, Jerry!

 

[sonnyram]

Thanks for the advice. I ended up removing the skidplate, but kept the tcase mounted to the trans, and removed as one unit. I used a cheap but effective trans jack from Harbor Freight.

Removing one rusted skid plate bolt was the hardest part of the job. What a bear that was. Thankfully the rest came out with application of heat. Trans is out now, cleaned up and ready for a rebuild.
View attachment 170064

Did you use a slide hammer to remove the pump? If so, where did you get it from?