Can I mount a fuse block on the top of the air box?

Big-Al

TJ Enthusiast
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Nashville
Is there any reason why I can't or shouldn't bolt a fuse block to the top of the stock air box?
 
Is there any reason why I can't or shouldn't bolt a fuse block to the top of the stock air box?
Only reason I can think of is that it'd make it hard to change the air filter. If your Jeep doesn't have ABS consider mounting it to the ABS mounting tray on the driver's side fender well. That's where I mounted mine and it's a good out of the way location.
 
Only reason I can think of is that it'd make it hard to change the air filter. If your Jeep doesn't have ABS consider mounting it to the ABS mounting tray on the driver's side fender well. That's where I mounted mine and it's a good out of the way location.
I thought you want it close to the battery, no? I have that right side completely open. If its not an issue of being on the other side I can try that.
 
I thought you want it close to the battery, no? I have that right side completely open. If its not an issue of being on the other side I can try that.
It's no problem to add the fuse box to the ABS tray. Connect it to the Power Distribution Center's 12v input lug with a 6-10 gauge wire depending on the load you anticipate.
 
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It's no problem to add the fuse box to the ABS tray. Connect it to the Power Distribution Center's 12v input lug with a 6-10 gauge wire depending on the load you anticipate.

Be aware that there's no fuse between the battery and PDC. Therefore there would be no fuse between his new fuse box and the battery. Depending on how much load he puts on the new fuse box and how much is already on the PDC the OEM wiring to the PDC could be overloaded.
 
Be aware that there's no fuse between the battery and PDC. Therefore there would be no fuse between his new fuse box to the battery.
Adding an aux fuse panel as I suggested is how the factory adding the PDC and the fuse panel in the glove box. None of the wiring between any of those is fused, the fuses are in the fuse panel, PDC, and aux fuse panel.
 
We don't know for sure how many circuits OP needs or his amperage requirements.

If 4 or less circuits and a total draw of less than 100 amps, something this might be a viable option to a fuse block on top of the airbox or anyplace else for that matter. Couldn't be simpler. Works for me.

Blue Sea 5024
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Blue Sea Fuse Block.jpg
 
Adding an aux fuse panel is the same thing as adding the PDC or the fuse panel in the glove box. None of the wiring between any of those is fused, the fuses are in the fuse panel, PDC, and aux fuse panel.

Correct, but none of those are long stretches or go over top of the hot engine.
 
Correct, but none of those are long stretches or go over top of the hot engine.
Oh come on. Use the right gauge wiring and run it adjacent/zip-tied to where all the other wiring runs above the fire wall. I'm not stupid where electrical and electronics is concerned.
 
I was just looking to put a fuse block so I can clean up the wiring as I'm doing lights on a roof rack. And a few other accessories for my overland project. Nothing major.
 
For mine, I have a short run of 2/0 to the dual ANL fuse holder, where it splits into 2 runs of 4AWG. I had 2/0, but not 1/0, on hand so that's what I used.

I chose the Bussmann RFRM because I added up all the things requiring fuses or relays I thought I might want and already had, and wanted to future proof it.

I currently have:
  • Aftermarket marine stereo
  • Aftermarket subwoofer amplifier
  • Halogen fog light pair (wired separately)
  • Halogen spot light pair (wired separately)
  • Dash camera
Things I have thought about:
  • CB Radio
  • Dual air compressor (wired individually)
  • LED flood light pair
  • Scene lights, up to four sides
  • Seat heaters, up to all four seats
  • Trailer brake controller
  • Trailer charge controller
  • Backup camera system
  • Roof rack clearance lights
  • Taillight defrost resistors
  • Mico brake lock (line lock)
  • Remote winch controller
  • Small power inverter
  • Eaton Elockers (front and rear)
  • Supercharger or turbocharger electric fan and/or aftercooler pump
  • Electric solenoid drain valve for air system
I'll probably never install 75% of that stuff, but it is very helpful when I can just click in a wire and slap in a fuse and maybe a relay and call it safe and done.
 
Oh come on. Use the right gauge wiring and run it adjacent/zip-tied to where all the other wiring runs above the fire wall. I'm not stupid where electrical and electronics is concerned.
What gauge wire did you use to connect to the battery?