Can I move the vehicle with front upper control arms disconnected?

You can turn the front pinion with a prybar stuck through the yoke enough to fix that. I thought you had a problem.
yeah, this actually much better than my starting point. Ive been using ratchet straps and pry bar. Will keep goin.
 
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I am curious how you managed to get the bolts out on that angle in the first place...
yeah…surpsingly had no issue on first arm. came of with no problem. It was only when I went to remove the second that all the weight shifted everything and caused both to be fugly like that. (second didnt actually come off, its “jammed” in a similar).
 
yeah…surpsingly had no issue on first arm. came of with no problem. It was only when I went to remove the second that all the weight shifted everything and caused both to be fugly like that. (second didnt actually come off, its “jammed” in a similar).
well, as stated could be way worse. nothing is too far off kilter, just cost yourself time and sweat and overall thats not too bad.
 
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The only thing that saved him from a giant mess is that bolt jammed when it cleared the inside hole.
speaking of which… Im nervous about the dangerous state of the left upper arm that is jammed. Should probably put a strap on that side too, as a fail safe for when Im pryin on the right side. So both sides strapped. Yeah?
 
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Maybe It's been thought of but here goes. Since you have adjustable control arms why not make note of where they are adjusted at now and then adjusting the free one to fit back into the hole to hook it up. You might have to do the same to the wedged side too after getting one side secure. Then its just a matter of backing it up to level ground and removing them again to adjust back to the proper length. It's more work, but seems the safest way to do it.
 
Maybe It's been thought of but here goes. Since you have adjustable control arms why not make note of where they are adjusted at now and then adjusting the free one to fit back into the hole to hook it up. You might have to do the same to the wedged side too after getting one side secure. Then its just a matter of backing it up to level ground and removing them again to adjust back to the proper length. It's more work, but seems the safest way to do it.
I actually questioned/considered that as a back up option if I couldnt get it working today. Luckily it didnt have to happen. I chucked the downhill side of the tire, jacked up enough to get one more click on the ratchet and in turn move the tire block by an 1/2”, dropped the jack, and let the weight settle into position. Then crawled back underneath and connected at the axle first and the body connection lined up perfecfly.

Whew.

Lesson learned.
 
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I so enjoy my double adjustable UCAs.
I've been chasing some vibration issues lately and in the process adjusted my pinion angle probably 15 times over the past 3 weeks. can't imagine how much more frustrating it would be with singles. Double adjustables for the win...
 
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