Chasing my tail another smog test thread

[1515art]

Per the FSM, each sensor gets a separate wire from the PCM for the heaters, and for the sensors (8 different wires). The heater pairs go to ground on common wires. The sensor grounds go back in pairs to the PCM on 2 wires.

FSM pages 8W-30-20 and 8W-30-21. https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-service-manual-pdf.14047/

I was looking at that I’d started with ground wires noting some non Jeep vehicles had a common ground terminal block for the O2, on the 2006 Jeep locations were all listed as different one on the front exhaust pipe one was listed at the rear of the main cat the other two were at other different locations power and signal would obviously terminate at the PCM, I would think anyway but haven’t read that far into the diagram yet. I also started checking voltages at the 1/1 sensor this was where it all began the voltages varied from mili volts to 4.5 - 5v but I was unfamiliar enough with what I was looking for specifically on each wire I set that aside for later to research more.

 

[1515art]

Things started on my early morning drive cycle with some promise and might be a clue if I’m chasing wiring issues after doing the warm up and one 5 minute run at 55 coasting to 20 then driving to a spot close by to plug in my scan tool all but the heater had cleared although I had a pending (1/1) P2098 pending downstream fuel system lean, repeating another 5 minute cycle and after almost the full cycle i got the MIL, checking with the scan tool I had P2098 (1/2) stored P2098 (2/2) Pending, I cleared the codes drove home rechecked to find P2098 (1/4) pending system 2 lean, P0133 (2/4) pending O2 1/1 slow, P0153 (3/4) pending O2 2/1 slow and P2096 (4/4) pending down stream system lean.

Keeping track of this is making my head hurt, lol too much early morning thinking… but, The P2098 stands out a little maybe, maybe not but I’ll go there first checking wiring downstream looking at wire integrity and voltages.

 

[tr21triton]

nothing I hate worse than trying to track down electrical gremlins ! luckily when I was a aircraft mechanic we had people who's only job was electrical and wiring ! I would see those guys with prints running across 3 or 4 8ft tables tracing wires and looking for 1 tiny wire in a bundle about a inch and a half in diameter with 100's of wires in it trying to find a short somewhere between the nose and the tail ! I'd much rather work on metal, fuel, hydraulics or that suck and blow thing out on the wing any day

 

[1515art]

nothing I hate worse than trying to track down electrical gremlins ! luckily when I was a aircraft mechanic we had people who's only job was electrical and wiring ! I would see those guys with prints running across 3 or 4 8ft tables tracing wires and looking for 1 tiny wire in a bundle about a inch and a half in diameter with 100's of wires in it trying to find a short somewhere between the nose and the tail ! I'd much rather work on metal, fuel, hydraulics or that suck and blow thing out on the wing any day

Ahh men to that, theres a shop in Vegas CarFixer with good reviews, a master mechanic claim for what that’s worth been in Vegas at least 19 years, I don’t see jeeps listed but maybe, Monday I think ill have to farm this out if nothing shows up over the weekend.

I don’t really see anything pointing one direction to another in the spark plugs I pulled out, the set I pulled were RC9** the only thing in stock I could find were RC12** a bit hotter I’ve got a set of the RC9’s on the way due today possibly.

I also added a battery disconnect to the positive side on the new interstate AGM battery, I don’t see why that should be an issue, the battery clamps are also new marine heavy duty.

which leads back to a possible short, my Jeep has been sitting around more than usual, my wife just got back from 9 months in China so the Jeep has only done the occasional prospecting trip and a couple Home Depot runs (I had a 28’ extension ladder strapped to the roof, it just fit the recovery d rings front and back) I’ve been daily driving her car. The disconnect on the battery ( ha, not my disconnect that’s another issue) is because something was/is parasitically draining the battery after sitting for a week to a few days it actually was speeding up leading me to believe cell damage driving too fast on rough roads, but could be related to the o2 S issues?

I may also give this a shot I’d picked it up on Amazon back when the stroker swap began, in case it will narrow the wire search?

 

[1515art]

Alright I tested all 4 sensors the black signal wire and ground wire are used, there is nothing I can see to differentiate between the up and down stream as far as settings on the test device. Cutting to the chase bank 1 and bank 2 upstream passed quickly and both downstream failed this probably means nothing and only reflects the obvious the pcm is not getting the signal it needs but could this point to the downstream wiring with the first trouble codes also downstream P2098, there is nothing from the scan tool or the o2 tester downstream 1 or 2 just the generic lean condition for both banks. If the voltage is incorrect to the sensor it fails if the sensor is damaged it fails, is it likely the up stream dtc is from improper fuel mixture reported by the downstream problem Pointing to a wiring issue in one of the downstream circuits.

this question is rhetorical I guess mostly thinking out loud trying to find pieces of he puzzle…

 

[1515art]

I started recording voltages I believe these are zirconia sensors? I need to double check and get the remainder tomorrow but there is a discrepancy emerging I think supporting a wiring issue? Rather than making a list I did a quick chart I think will be easier sharing the numbers.

This may also explain the battery draining over days parked. The check is with both the ignition on and off, the DVM is grounded to the battery on the upstream and exhaust on the downstream if that makes any difference?

I also need an ohm reading from ground to the terminal leading to the grey wire pin on the vehicle socket.

wire color is as it relates to the sensor not the vehicle wiring the pins graphic orients wire color to the vehicle socket position.

 

[1515art]

I also thought one white wire from the sensor went to he heater and one white wire was power, black is signal and grey is ground? Is the signal supposed to show voltage Going to the sensor? And shouldn’t one of the white wires have 5v? I could have made mistakes but tried to keep the socket lock oriented up

 

[1515art]

That TSB only fixes the "Monitors Not Ready" problem, which doesn't throw any codes at all. Since you have a bunch of trouble codes, I don't think the TSB will help.

Since your codes all seem to clump around the O2 sensors, have you checked the wiring to that neighborhood? Maybe a wiring harness got crushed, or rubbed raw. Maybe your upper cats have a problem.

Start with reading the voltage at the connectors to the sensors. It's pretty safe to assume one of the ECUs was providing correct voltage.

Work your way through the FSM and the wiring diagrams.

If you don't have voltage at a plug, work your way to the next connector or splice point in the path. Should be able to isolate the stretch of wire that's failed.

Or go nuclear and deloom... remove the tape and everything and get a good look.

I had constant issues with my oil pressure sensor until I frame and tub swapped my 97...long story... while I had the tub off I rewrapped and cleaned up a lot of the harness.

-Mac

Per the FSM, each sensor gets a separate wire from the PCM for the heaters, and for the sensors (8 different wires). The heater pairs go to ground on common wires. The sensor grounds go back in pairs to the PCM on 2 wires.

FSM pages 8W-30-20 and 8W-30-21. https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-service-manual-pdf.14047/

I redid readings to all 4 sensors the grey ground wire is pretty consistent 2.5v range the white wires were consistently reading in minivolts I’d guess one of the grounds is shorted to the o2 power somewhere near the PCM? As was suggested maybe jamming in the battery exacerbated an existing wiring issue?

 

[1515art]

Well, the Tj is running pretty good passed smog and I wanted to wrap this up, If the knowledgeable experts of which there are many here disagree id like to know and I don’t want to mislead anyone else with all my guesses.

i took it to a shop in town they had my Jeep for a couple weeks they thought the intake manifold was leaking they’d sprayed carb cleaner in the area, although I did not see a leak smoke testing I gave the go ahead to change the gasket, then retesting they thought the injector O rings were leaking so at no charge they changed those, I offered changing all the injectors too but they didn’t think it was necessary. They called me saying it was ready and it was running better but still throwing codes and none of the emissions had reset and the fuel ratios were going kind of crazy lean coming to a stop then settling down, the shop kind of gave up I think, so OK Im back at it myself but with some advantage having them go over everything?

first things I did next was change the downstream O2 sensor in bank 2 still showing lean and tighten all the valve cover hex bolts still getting 2098, 0153 & 0133 I did the power distribution center modification in the TSB made a short test drive just about a mile the fuel ratios went way lean then corrected ( I think from sitting all summer the throttle body sensor was gummed up, this eventually worked itself out. I plugged my scan tool in to see if any codes were triggered and surprisingly none were but all my emission checks had reset in the short drive from the TSB modification so I was able to pass smog at least but still getting the same codes if I drove it much. I ordered a new set of ford 6 hole 24# injectors from Clegg they air mailed at no extra charge resulting in better performance and no codes unless I hammered the wide open throttle so I switched I the correct heat range spark plugs and though I had finally crested the hill but still occasionally got a P2098 from driving hard on the throttle but it was the best it had been running. A friend sent me this link;

so I made this up off a resistor from Amazon,

After disconnecting the battery leads connected this to the leads leaving it for a couple hours and so far no codes, so I don’t know if the 2098 will return but so far so good.

 

[macleanflood]

Interesting...glad you're making progress. Curious to see what others think. I would have stuck with OEM injectors...but I can't argue with working.

-Mac

 

[1515art]

Interesting...glad you're making progress. Curious to see what others think. I would have stuck with OEM injectors...but I can't argue with working.

-Mac

Golen recommends Bosch but the ford injectors come up in threads on the stroker forum and Clegg lists them for the 2006 wrangler TJ stroker as a direct fit performance option. I’d started looking for OEM but hit on these and figured I’d see how it ran with them since my issue was running lean, but I’m sure you are right.

The larger throttle body, headers and other stroker mods make it hard to know, but for sure there is a really noticeable difference from the sound of the stroker compared to the stock engine sucking in air.

 

[1515art]

Oh smog time again it is every year for my tj hear in Sin City… we like our air clean and our girls dirty. And my baby’s been a dirty girl again. The dreaded post card came in the mail the one with the X smog required, ha OK she passed her test last year after lavishing her with gifts and attention so things should be sweet among us this year… I’ve been good to her too, bought her a heavy duty ground kit, fancy one with cables and clamps everywhere, blocks n firewalls and alternator things up front… even gave her a new alternator thing when I accidentally twisted her terminal off attaching the cable, I winced she was indifferent. I even fancied up her injectors with cozy insulators, you know just to keep her comfortable, the things we do for love… being single was cheaper and less complicated.

She’d been parked for a bit, the other girl my wife (the two of them don’t get along) has been in China for a few months so I drive her car around town, she-J has had the battery disconnected so now we need a drive cycle, long story short She-J is pissed, crap OK I’m sleeping on the couch tonight. I run to the dealership buy her some bobbles three throttle body sensors for $630 money is no object for this girl I’m thrilled to find her favorite brand, typical high maintenance they are all the same designer this and designer that.

All right things are gonna be good now, she wearing her new jewels l slide it in… slowly and give a twist, hoping she’s ready and to my surprise she fires right up, so we go for a drive cycle because she is acting real nice but well you know, seems like she’s never satisfied. Driving down the road she’s never run better after a bit we pull into the driveway, with permission I fondle her OBD slot and after a peek I think to myself is she seeing someone else. 3 open emission and a pending p0174 Bank 2… she was just being nice to get something new.

What now I’ve bought her everything a girl could want, and I let her have a fling with someone else last year, she even got a new manifold gasket… so running lean I grab her favorite scent Od Da carb cleaner and start at the intake manifold working from bank 1 to bank 2 and bingo spraying back by the firewall the engine stalls then revs a little. We argue and I say hurtful things… you are never satisfied, you take advantage not seeing my side of things… in the end I apologize.

Now fix her myself or take her to a stranger, if I do her myself should I go ahead and remove a fender or try and reach the manifold bolts through the available space? I’m leaning toward taking her in to a stranger simply because I’ve been laid up with a herniated disk that is just beginning to get better but I haven’t decided. Im getting old a fling might do her good annd after this She will be happy for a little wile maybe we will even make it to next year if I’m lucky?