I don't care about the money, do you have a set of good single injectors to try. I'd take these out, I'm getting good at it.
Check those fuel injectors
- Thread starter Jezza
- Start date
I have a set of 4 hole injectors I got from K Suspension along with new electrical connectors and Design Engineering heat shields. They are on my long todo list.
Blaine should I use crimp connectors or solder and heat shrink on the pigtails?
Blaine should I use crimp connectors or solder and heat shrink on the pigtails?
I prefer non insulated barrel butt splices (with heat shrink added over them) and from what I gather he does too. They work really well with a good crimper like the Thomas and betts WT111M. I get my terminals from delcity but I’m sure you can find them plenty other places.
That is exactly how I would do those. Or the red ones with adhesive heat shrink already on them from Del City.
Curious, what crimper do you use on the ones with shrink already on them? I have one by Wirefy (from Amazon) that works well on most of those types of pink/blue/yellow terminals I’ve tried, but curious what you use.
Well, see, that's why I use those butt connectors from DC. The heat shrink is amazingly tough so you can actually use the crimp section of a T&B crimper that is typically used for non insulated terminals which gets a very good crimp on the wire and then the adhesive seals up the hole. Generally it won't even make a hole though.
Ah, nice. I have definitely destroyed heat shrink with that tool on other connectors. Often it can seal back up though. Do you use the standard heat shrink connectors or the “perma seal” molex ones?
Unless they change them, these are the ones I use.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-&-Crimp-Butt-Connectors/p_805404.h_801795
I have had many other types of heat shrink split up the side when over heated usually at the worst possible time on a connection you really don't want to re-do. The ones above have never had a single issue in 1000's of uses.
Those are the standard ones I was referring to. When you select those, there is an option before you click on them in the main list of the type of terminal you choose and perma-seal is the name, they are Molex brand and are priced a bit higher, so I was assuming even thicker heat shrink or something. But sounds like the ones you use are just as good if not better. I'll go with those next time I need some.
I need to go through and order up some ring terminals as well. BTW - I did end up buying quite a few of the push-ons we previously discussed (forces you to buy 100) so I'm loaded on those for a while in multiple sizes, and they were definitely as good as you said (3M nylon with stress relief crimp) when used with the double crimper. Thanks for that, I had never found a spade I liked before.
I've recently swapped a set of 4 hole injectors on the TJ and noticed zero difference, other than a smoother idle. However, the smoother idle wasn't due to the 4 hole injector. It was simply because the stock set I removed had 180K on them and we're fouled badly.
I confirmed this over the weekend when I pulled the set out of my LJ, with 103K, because the idle was extremely rough and there was a stumble off idle. I simply pulled the stock injectors, cleaned them all, then re-installed them. Idle is now smooth, like new, and the stumble is gone.
How did you clean them? Mine look okay, there isn't carbon on them or anything.
I just reported what I did, somebody asked for a vendor, I thought I had cracks, I already had the injectors so I put them in and reported what I found clearly stating on my first report
Blaine just has it in for me so he goes off, it's no surprise. So what if I blew $90 on new o-rings, filters and injectors that wont crack. It's not a big deal for me but I guess for him the gauntlet is thrown down, money is on the table.
I just used some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush (gently) on the base. For the top, it just got carb cleaner sprayed into it. The before and after difference was dramatic!
I'm a little surprised about the cracked injectors. I've removed at least a 1/2 dozen sets and have never seen one cracked. That said, all the sets I've done have been on '03 to '06 models. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. That has just been my limited experience.
Sounds easy. I think the 05-06 are already 4 hole. I did read somewhere cracks are caused by internal swelling due to corrosion inside the injectors so they'd probably test bad resistance wise if they had cracks like the originals in this thread. I'll probably rig up something to power and shoot cleaner through them at some point just so I can see for myself it doesn't matter for overall smoothness. Searching for two seconds about Siemens injector cracks yields countless pictures and stories but you know how information is these days, it could just be water/ethanol sitting too long in rare cases or something? I'm glad you posted, I wouldn't have thought to research cleaning them. Nice work on that fuel rail wrap by the way, cleaner looking than mine turned out.
OP
I made a injector pulse circuit back before I had a test bench. I used a 555 timer chip and a solid state relay to handle the high current. Pulse it while in the sonic cleaner is all the fancy machines do. The 05 injectors I had were single hole.
So a bath and pulse, good to know. Thanks for the 05 information, I always thought pretty much all 05-06 was the same NG3 new stuff.
I just ordered six from Precision Auto Injector. Should be here Tuesday. No idea how many miles mine have on em. They look old and corroded. I think the Jeep runs fine so this goes against my don't fix what's not broken.
Going to use this as an opportunity to clean up the fuel rail...should I paint it or will it buff out to anything worth while? It's a 97 with a Schrader valve...also kinda thinking of adding a pressure gauge for quick glance trail troubleshooting.
Also going to clean up the wire loom with some fresh split loom and tape.
Going to use this as an opportunity to clean up the fuel rail...should I paint it or will it buff out to anything worth while? It's a 97 with a Schrader valve...also kinda thinking of adding a pressure gauge for quick glance trail troubleshooting.
Also going to clean up the wire loom with some fresh split loom and tape.
I highly recommend picking up a roll of Tesa tape. It’s OEM like and also doesn’t wear down from heat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I2MLN2Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I purchased the 4-hole from a reputable vendor and it caused an O2 sensor, bank 1 rich condition code. I followed the "ECU reset", drove it for a week and still the code came back...major disappointment. I swapped back in my original injectors, no issues since.