Checklist for a 3" lift

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That’s a different issue lol
With the rubicon fenders, you can run 32 on a B.B. ($100-$120) no issue. Stock Control arms
It’s not for rock crawling but they can sure stuff up in there
the 4.10 is fine except on extreme inclines or declines where you just turn off your O/D.
 
so I have said it before in another forum BUT, after seeing first hand a couple of jeeps offroading and the difference I have since stayed closer to stock. The two jeeps were day and night different, One was 2012ish JKU with 35's I think and a winch and all the bling, it looked nice. The other was a bone stock 48 Willys CJ2A with zipper tires and nothing else. The main difference was the JKU got stuck REPEATIDLY and the willys went through all of the course as if it was driving on the road. Hence the point I am trying to make is....bigger tires, gears, accessories equal extra weight. So I have stayed with close to stock not going over two inches if I do a lift. Also the other problem I have seen with BIG Ol TIRES is and a BIG O lift kit is you know are limiting the areas in the woods you can travel to due to the size of your rig. Jeeps are small and nimble to go everywhere, if they were supposed to be big there would be a Peterbilt badge on them... lol just my 2 cents...
 
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The 265/75 would be a good size to go. About a 31.5" tire and will clear no problem. You could even add just the bl for a bit more clearance if so inclined.
 
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Personally, I would do the 265/75. A half inch taller, half inch narrower. Of course, either will work.

Yeah, I was just putting it out there as an example. I think the 265/75 is a more popular size, with more choices available.
 
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32’s on 2 inches in a Rubicon can get you a lot of places, not so hard on the wallet.

A stock Rubicon can go on an amazing number of crawling trails. I rented stock Rubicons in Moab and had a blast. In most cases, anything a stock Rubicon can’t go on isn’t worth the effort or expense. I always recommend guys rent a stock Rubicon and test it before deciding on the expense and the risk of impact on drivability issues that often result from lifting their Jeep. If it’s important for your Jeep to look “bad ass” then go for it.


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I feel like I should chime in as far as regearing goes.

I bought a stock X, had a 3.5" RE lift put on, added 33x12.5 Duratrac tires, front and rear track bars, and an updated speedo gear. I want to regear eventually, but I'm not planning on it until I'm ready to work on upgrading my axles. I'd rather not have to pay for the same labor twice. I do just fine with the stock 3.73 gears, but my TJ isn't my daily driver.

Obviously, there's people with much more knowledge on this forum than me about regearing. I'm just telling you what my experience is with my stock gears.
 
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If it helps, I am running 31's though, but I did a two inch lift and didn't need a trackbar nor lower my transfercase nor mml lift nor front bumpstops. You may are may not need that stuff, but I lift it, and see what you get at the end.

I mean buy the lift and the bL put it on and drive it. If it vibes lower the tc or buy a mml then. (SYE is the best bet in my opinion though) Also when doing the front springs cycle the suspension to see if front bumpstops are necessary. they weren't for me. Maybe because of the 33's they will be for you, but you may be able to save some money on unnecessary things if you are patient.

Also you will most likely want to regear, but 33's on 4:10's is not the end of the world, meaning you won't have to regear to drive your Jeep. You can regear later when it drives you crazy, but it will still get you to work in the interim.
 
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If it helps, I am running 31's though, but I did a two inch lift and didn't need a trackbar nor lower my transfercase nor mml lift nor front bumpstops. You may are may not need that stuff, but I lift it, and see what you get at the end.

I mean buy the lift and the bL put it on and drive it. If it vibes lower the tc or buy a mml then. (SYE is the best bet in my opinion though) Also when doing the front springs cycle the suspension to see if front bumpstops are necessary. they weren't for me. Maybe because of the 33's they will be for you, but you may be able to save some money on unnecessary things if you are patient.

Also you will most likely want to regear, but 33's on 4:10's is not the end of the world, meaning you won't have to regear to drive your Jeep. You can regear later when it drives you crazy, but it will still get you to work in the interim.

I drive a lifted Rubicon with 33’s and 4:10 gears and auto tranny. I’m not bothered by the gearing.


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I run a 2” suspension lift with BFG K/O 33/10.5/ 15.

I only go on the beach and light trails to the beach with no problems.
 
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I daily drove my 5 speed Rubicon on 33s for several years with 4.10 gears. It was ok. I can't imagine thinking the automatic would be acceptable on the highway.

Switching to 4.88, which is one step deeper than most recommend for my transmission and tire size, is one of the best things I have done to mine. Performance-wise, everything is better because of it.
 
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I daily drove my 5 speed Rubicon on 33s for several years with 4.10 gears. It was ok. I can't imagine thinking the automatic would be acceptable on the highway.

Switching to 4.88, which is one step deeper than most recommend for my transmission and tire size, is one of the best things I have done to mine. Performance-wise, everything is better because of it.

My Rubicon is my daily driver and the gearing isn’t a problem. Remember... it’s a Jeep! I didn’t buy my Jeep thinking it would be a highway performance machine.


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So now I'm looking at...

2" Suspension Lift - https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_01X_A_PG.htm

1" Body Lift - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZLE2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Bump Stop Kit - ?

5.13 Re-Gear - $1500-ish

Good Lord. $1000 for the suspension, $100 for the body lift, $1500-ish to re-gear, another $1k for the tires...

I don't see how any of this makes financial sense for me.

Yup, 33"s clobber your bank account. No way around it unless you space out the build. This is what I am doing, and I think you should stick with your original plan of 33"s. Buyers remorse blows!

Lift, tires and then gears. I put the lift on during the fall, tires are coming soon, and if my gearing sucks then that will be updated over the summer.

The DPG Offroad ultimate kit has all the parts you need for a capable rig at a pretty good price if you decide on 33s. That’s what I went with.

You’ll still want a regear ;).

+ million

I purchased from DPG and recommend that you get your OME kit from Dirk at DPG. He has different kits, but his kits are not off the shelf, and are customized for the Buyer. Give him a call, spend 30 minutes talking about your plan and you will be a happy person. He is also less expensive than quadratec and will support you during the install...just call him and he will help. Plus he sends instructions and a personal cheat sheet to look out for things.

https://www.dpgoffroad.com/product-...-kits/tj-kits/old-man-emu-tjlj-wrangler-kits/
 
My Rubicon is my daily driver and the gearing isn’t a problem. Remember... it’s a Jeep! I didn’t buy my Jeep thinking it would be a highway performance machine.


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Low gears are better both on and off road. There is no downside. You are trying to convince yourself that poor performance is normal for a Jeep. It doesn't need to be that way.
 
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Low gears are better both on and off road. There is no downside. You are trying to convince yourself that poor performance is normal for a Jeep. It doesn't need to be that way.

I’m not trying to convince myself of anything! I know what a Jeep is, maybe you need some education??


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