I pulled the tranny the other day. Today I removed the clutch pressure plate, the friction plate, the pilot bearing, and the flywheel.
• The disc that holds the pilot bearing simply fell out.
• The flywheel is a bit wavy in cross section. It needs machining or replacement.
Now the questions:
Can you reuse 4.0L flywheel bolts or do they need to be replaced?
If they can be reused, do they have to go back into the same holes in the crank, through the same flywheel holes? (In case this was true, I used a scribe to mark the flywheel, and I marked the bolts with a Sharpie and replaced them in the correct holes as soon as the flywheel came off.)
If I get a new flywheel is the LuK one good? (The price is right. Morons on eBay want $468 for a Mopar flywheel. WTF?????)
To remove the aluminum clutch housing spacer (the so-called "inspection plate") the flywheel had to come off as the guide pins stuck out far too much to allow the plate to bend enough to pop off. So the flywheel genie is out of the bottle; I now have to put it back on when all this is done.
To the best of my knowledge there are no shops around here that can properly machine a flywheel like the one we used (with a slightly domed surface). All the local shops that do this use a brake rotor mill which will make the face perfectly flat, and that does not work for us. So I am getting a new one. New bolts, too, I assume? The bolts are anywhere from $14 to $18 EACH! I can get a six bolt set by ARP for like $30 on Amazon.
So, would it be okay to use the LuK flywheel with these ARP bolts? I do not know whether the TJ bolts are supposed to stretch. I do not know whether the ARP bolts stretch. I know the ARP set comes with a special grease to put ONLY under the heads (not on the threads) and they use a different torque value than the FSM uses due to this grease.
If the ARP bolts are bogus what should I use? Also, RockAuto has a flywheel shim listed for the 2003 4.0L/NV3550 but mine does not have one. What is up with that?
I do not mind doing the clutch at all, but the flywheel was something I did not want to remove. Ugh...
Any help here? I am concerned about the pilot bearing/disc simply falling out onto the quilt when the clutch dropped off. I expected to have to do battle with that thing to get it out.
• The disc that holds the pilot bearing simply fell out.
• The flywheel is a bit wavy in cross section. It needs machining or replacement.
Now the questions:
Can you reuse 4.0L flywheel bolts or do they need to be replaced?
If they can be reused, do they have to go back into the same holes in the crank, through the same flywheel holes? (In case this was true, I used a scribe to mark the flywheel, and I marked the bolts with a Sharpie and replaced them in the correct holes as soon as the flywheel came off.)
If I get a new flywheel is the LuK one good? (The price is right. Morons on eBay want $468 for a Mopar flywheel. WTF?????)
To remove the aluminum clutch housing spacer (the so-called "inspection plate") the flywheel had to come off as the guide pins stuck out far too much to allow the plate to bend enough to pop off. So the flywheel genie is out of the bottle; I now have to put it back on when all this is done.
To the best of my knowledge there are no shops around here that can properly machine a flywheel like the one we used (with a slightly domed surface). All the local shops that do this use a brake rotor mill which will make the face perfectly flat, and that does not work for us. So I am getting a new one. New bolts, too, I assume? The bolts are anywhere from $14 to $18 EACH! I can get a six bolt set by ARP for like $30 on Amazon.
So, would it be okay to use the LuK flywheel with these ARP bolts? I do not know whether the TJ bolts are supposed to stretch. I do not know whether the ARP bolts stretch. I know the ARP set comes with a special grease to put ONLY under the heads (not on the threads) and they use a different torque value than the FSM uses due to this grease.
If the ARP bolts are bogus what should I use? Also, RockAuto has a flywheel shim listed for the 2003 4.0L/NV3550 but mine does not have one. What is up with that?
I do not mind doing the clutch at all, but the flywheel was something I did not want to remove. Ugh...
Any help here? I am concerned about the pilot bearing/disc simply falling out onto the quilt when the clutch dropped off. I expected to have to do battle with that thing to get it out.
