Companies that make tummy tucks

LJRubicon

TJ Enthusiast
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Spring Hill, FL, United States
I have been doing research on higher clearance transfer case skids. There is a thread in the TJ resources section. It is very outdated. Some of the companies don't exist anymore or do not build the skids any longer. I have been searching for the best Transfer case/engine/trans skid for my build. From everything I have found the Undercover fab seems the best for me BUT I may be missing some companies. Some basic info. I have a 2005 LJR. custom 3/4 link, 1.25" BL, 1" MML, electric cooling fan, double carden rear DS etc. What companies have been used lately? What is your opinion on the products you installed. What is your build that has to do with tummy tuck?
 
Savvy. The crossmember is separate, whereas with UCF it is built in. Savvy only makes the 03-06 skids. I’d go with that for sure. I did and very happy. 4 + 1.25SL, 1”MML, 35’s.
 
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Savvy is for sure the best for 03-06 but you will probably have to wait a while for one as they are currently backordered. UCF is the best option for early tjs.
If you are a good fabricator you can build one yourself and there are kits out there for making the crossmember.
 
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I've run both UCF and Savvy skids. If you're not in a hurry wait for the Savvy skid to come back in stock. The two big reasons for doing so are:

- A separate cross member, allowing you to drop the skid and still have the transmission and transfer case supported

- More overall clearance, which can be seen in the pictures below

A not so subtle point that many miss is the ramping up on the sides of the Savvy skid. Unlike the UCF skid, where it's basically flat frame rail to frame rail, the Savvy skid has a small center section that's flat. It then angles up to flatten out at the frame rails.

The first two pictures are my current Savvy skid set up. Be warned that it does takes some work to get the exhaust tucked up and not rattling, but it's not a hard job. It just takes some patience and willingness cut exhaust mounts (on the pipe) and move them.

jpalyoh-jpg.238530


20210506_175027-jpg.251077


The third picture shows the UCF skid on my previous LJ. It's not as elegant as the Savvy skid but does the job, minus the two items I pointed out. Bottom line, if you're in a hurry, you'll likely need to go UCF. The one thing I do like about the UCF skid is the ability to add a 3/8" aluminum option. I wouldn't say it's mandatory, but if I were buying a UCF skid, I'd go that route. Whatever skid you do get, make sure you go aluminum. It's a decision you won't regret!

c3358eab-6f6f-4dd6-b526-3afb3fa563fe_zpsdmtj0ntk.jpg


The fourth picture is a UCF stock photo, which shows the overall flatness of the skid.

ucf-deep-cover-skid-plate-system.jpg
 
I spoke to the owner at ucf a few weeks ago and he said they redesigned their lopro mount after the first generation had some vibrations and issues.

I’m leaning towards ucf as I called the number posted on the website, he picked up immediately and answered all my questions.

Also why couldn’t you use one of the above kits to mount the transmission to a crossmember and not to the ucf skid?
 
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I spoke to the owner at ucf a few weeks ago and he said they redesigned their lopro mount after the first generation had some vibrations and issues.

I’m leaning towards ucf as I called the number posted on the website, he picked up immediately and answered all my questions.

Also why couldn’t you use one of the above kits to mount the transmission to a crossmember and not to the ucf skid?

Because the transmission is where the transmission is.
 
I spoke to the owner at ucf a few weeks ago and he said they redesigned their lopro mount after the first generation had some vibrations and issues.

I’m leaning towards ucf as I called the number posted on the website, he picked up immediately and answered all my questions.

Also why couldn’t you use one of the above kits to mount the transmission to a crossmember and not to the ucf skid?

You can. Once you mount the trans to the member your are free to add whatever kind of guard you like.
 
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I spoke to the owner at ucf a few weeks ago and he said they redesigned their lopro mount after the first generation had some vibrations and issues.

I’m leaning towards ucf as I called the number posted on the website, he picked up immediately and answered all my questions.

Also why couldn’t you use one of the above kits to mount the transmission to a crossmember and not to the ucf skid?

I have the UCF. I think the trans mount channel would conflict with a separate cross member
 
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I went with UCF, 1/4" steel (it is incredibly heavy...). It was less money and I wanted to use the LOPRO mount. Not sure what version of it I have but I have no vibrations from it. I have no experience with it but I like the features and design of the Savvy a lot.

I think another option out there that hasn't been mentioned is Barnes. You may have to drill your own holes, if memory serves.
 
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Depending on your skill level UCF also has an Extra Clearance skid that isn't completely flat. I went that route on my LJR cause I had read some posts on clearance issues with the 241OR transfer case and the body needing some massaging to make it work. I was really looking for something more plug and play. I used to turtle the LJ off-road with the "shovel". Haven't hit the new UCF skid yet. Great time to relocate your locker pumps under the hood while you're at it.
 
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Ugh, just remounted my steel UCF skid this weekend. It’s a bear, need to swap to aluminum

It really is. I put ratchet straps on it and a jack underneath it and strap it up into place. Pretty easy that way but if something goes wrong (say, a strap slips off) it sucks. If I were getting aluminum I would stick with the Savvy though. My UCF 1/4" steel engine skid is bent upward a bit so I wonder what would have happened with their aluminum version. I plan to beat/bend it back into place eventually and weld on some supports of some kind in the middle.
 
my vote would be for the Savvy stuff. I have a UCF skid because I have a 98. The UCF skid has over sized slotted holes that make flush mount impossible without drilling new holes and adding new relocated nutserts (Blaine’s idea). I have the 3/8 aluminum and it has held up great. Dropped on it a few times pretty hard with out hardly a mark on it. But using flush mount screws presented it’s own challenges. I would wait for a Savvy system.
 
Is that the UCF engine skid? Did you replace the oil pan drain plug with a valve? How is changing the oil with that skid in place?

I have it and did not replace the plug with a valve. Easy enough to put a socket through there and take off the drain plug. The oil flows through the hole you see in the skid. Easy peasy.