Control Arm Idea

Nordic

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
138
Location
Monument, CO
So recently, I saw an ad in my Instagram for Wide Open Designs, a company offering 7075 threaded Aluminum links in custom lengths. Now, I'm not exactly sure what length of link would be needed, but knowing that a lower control arm should be 16" minimum length, I'm assuming the link would be 13 or so inches, the price of which on wide open designs is $54. The rod is already tapped on both ends according to whatever specs you want, so then all you would need would be Johnny Joints and Jam Nuts, a part which I can find locally for around $50. So theoretically, if I wanted to get a set of front lower CAs, I could order 2 of the links and 4 Johnny Joints for around $308, then all I would have to do is assemble and install. This might be a competitive option, seeing as Currie LCAs are $380 on Amazon and Savvys are $369. Now if you are ordering all 8 control arms, getting other brands will probably be cheaper than piecing together your own, but then again, Johhny Joints are availible from alot of different vendors and if you could find a 20% off from 4 wheel parts, the price could still be competitive.
 
So recently, I saw an ad in my Instagram for Wide Open Designs, a company offering 7075 threaded Aluminum links in custom lengths. Now, I'm not exactly sure what length of link would be needed, but knowing that a lower control arm should be 16" minimum length, I'm assuming the link would be 13 or so inches, the price of which on wide open designs is $54. The rod is already tapped on both ends according to whatever specs you want, so then all you would need would be Johnny Joints and Jam Nuts, a part which I can find locally for around $50. So theoretically, if I wanted to get a set of front lower CAs, I could order 2 of the links and 4 Johnny Joints for around $308, then all I would have to do is assemble and install. This might be a competitive option, seeing as Currie LCAs are $380 on Amazon and Savvys are $369. Now if you are ordering all 8 control arms, getting other brands will probably be cheaper than piecing together your own, but then again, Johhny Joints are availible from alot of different vendors and if you could find a 20% off from 4 wheel parts, the price could still be competitive.
Wish I could have found something like this years ago when I made my links. If you are going a custom length you have to make your own and this would have been a great option.
 
Ok, so here is a curiosity question, there are several big name companies now selling TJ/JKUR control arms that have only a 1"x14tpi johnny joints. I see that Savvy's are more like 1.125", so are the 1" really strong enough for a lower control arm? maybe @mrblaine would know?
 
Ok, so here is a curiosity question, there are several big name companies now selling TJ/JKUR control arms that have only a 1"x14tpi johnny joints. I see that Savvy's are more like 1.125", so are the 1" really strong enough for a lower control arm? maybe @mrblaine would know?
It is all about leverage and the weight of the vehicle. What bends arms, joint shanks is when the rig falls of the line and lands the control arm on a rock or other solid object. If it lands close to the axle, the leverage in favor of the arm is very good. The weight on the end of the lever is the spring holding up the rig. If the spring is highly compressed, it has more force to exert on the lever. If it is not compressed and the axle is hanging from the shock, just the weight of the tire and axle is on the arm.

Where things go bad is when the spring is highly compressed, the rig slides off the line and lands the control arm on a point a few inches from the frame side mount. Now you have a 1000 pounds of force in the spring x the length of the lever trying to jack the rig back up. If the 1" shank is threaded all or most of the way in, it will most likely handle it just fine on a short arm set up. If you run that with a longer arm, then that 1000 pound force has a longer lever to multiply the force across and stuff can and will bend. The longer the arm the stronger it and anything that threads into has to be. The most common bent arm we see are the rear RE long arms where they narrow down the arm to thread on their female rod end. A 36" arm with a rear spring pushing down with a fulcrum close to the belly skid and there is no way for it not to bend.

So, the answer is, yes, no, maybe, all depends on how you built it and where you get it in trouble. That said, the attrition rate for Savvy bent lower control arms or joint shanks is almost nil. Only a couple out of all the arms they have sold. Put the same shank on the end of a rear lower long arm, that number multiplies exponentially.
 
I found that they are just up the road from me, summit machine that is, about 60 miles from my house. Just a short stroll out west
 
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It is all about leverage and the weight of the vehicle. What bends arms, joint shanks is when the rig falls of the line and lands the control arm on a rock or other solid object. If it lands close to the axle, the leverage in favor of the arm is very good. The weight on the end of the lever is the spring holding up the rig. If the spring is highly compressed, it has more force to exert on the lever. If it is not compressed and the axle is hanging from the shock, just the weight of the tire and axle is on the arm.

Where things go bad is when the spring is highly compressed, the rig slides off the line and lands the control arm on a point a few inches from the frame side mount. Now you have a 1000 pounds of force in the spring x the length of the lever trying to jack the rig back up. If the 1" shank is threaded all or most of the way in, it will most likely handle it just fine on a short arm set up. If you run that with a longer arm, then that 1000 pound force has a longer lever to multiply the force across and stuff can and will bend. The longer the arm the stronger it and anything that threads into has to be. The most common bent arm we see are the rear RE long arms where they narrow down the arm to thread on their female rod end. A 36" arm with a rear spring pushing down with a fulcrum close to the belly skid and there is no way for it not to bend.

So, the answer is, yes, no, maybe, all depends on how you built it and where you get it in trouble. That said, the attrition rate for Savvy bent lower control arms or joint shanks is almost nil. Only a couple out of all the arms they have sold. Put the same shank on the end of a rear lower long arm, that number multiplies exponentially.

I guess I knew all of this but had never really put it together. Thanks for putting it clearly
 
i purchased from WOD, got my tie rod for my JK axle from them, wanted to buy CA's as well but there is a 30$ per piece charge for machining. so add that to your total. but the quality was great and it's a stout piece.

in the end i opted for DOM and 1.25" R n L threaded weld in bungs for the ca's, saved 30-40%.