Control arm recommendation?

Ataxium

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I'm redoing the entirety of my front suspension with the exception of shocks and springs.

I want to upgrade The control arms to something more durable / tubular. Probably adjustable as well, but without breaking the bank. Looking for recommendations on something mid range.

I'm planning on hitting the steering with the crown HD kit as well unless there's a better choice.
 
How do you use your rig? It’s hard to recommend something without knowing if it’s a street vehicle or buggy - either is fine, but it helps guide suggestions. Also, how much lift?
 
How do you use your rig? It’s hard to recommend something without knowing if it’s a street vehicle or buggy - either is fine, but it helps guide suggestions. Also, how much lift?
2 1/2 lift.
Mostly street, but I have all intentions of taking it offroad eventually.
The worst it deals with atm is the lovely pothole littered roads here in MA.
 
2 1/2 lift.
Mostly street, but I have all intentions of taking it offroad eventually.
The worst it deals with atm is the lovely pothole littered roads here in MA.

If you’re still on the OEM arms they’re actually pretty good and allow for more rotation than you’d expect due to their open C design, in which case I’d say just get a new set if your existing bushings are shot. There’s nothing really better about tubular arms in and of themselves - until you get arms with better joints (such as the Johnny joint, which isn’t cheap and not necessary for primarily on-road usage with minimal off-roading).
 
2 1/2 lift.
Mostly street, but I have all intentions of taking it offroad eventually.
The worst it deals with atm is the lovely pothole littered roads here in MA.
The stock stuff is hard to beat for a street driven Jeep.

BDS makes some round replacements with fixed ends which would replace your factory control arms.
https://bds-suspension.com/product-display?tab=jeep-accessories-jeepcontrolarms
https://blog.bds-suspension.com/?p=4607
DF0B70C2-52D3-434A-951A-3E49E95298E2.jpeg
 
Appreciate the input guys, I'll be checking these out.
I know there's probably nothing wrong with the OEM ones, I just don't like the open C design, in my head it just looks flimsy and I'd feel a lot better having some sturdy tubes instead.
 
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I just don't like the open C design, in my head it just looks flimsy and I'd feel a lot better having some sturdy tubes instead.

Depending on how you eventually wheel it, the more solid ones without flexible joints may start damaging your mounts - so just keep an eye out if you get it into anything intermediate+.
 
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Not sure how big your bank is, but savvy short arms are a nice upgrade that you won't outgrow for quite sometime
I'd love to go that route but they're definitely too expensive for me.

Ill likely end up ordering either the core 4x4 or the BDS that were mentioned here, they both look like good mid-grade setups.
 
I just ordered the T2 set from C4x4
Appreciate the input guys, I'll I probably redo the rear later on if I like them just to keep everything matching.
 
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Being from Massachusetts be sure to get the bolts and nuts sprayed with some Kroil for a couple days prior to install. Also be ready for some of the bolts to be seized in place too. Core sells a complete set of replacement hardware at a decent price. Be sure to use plenty of antiseize when you put the new parts in.👍
 
Being from Massachusetts be sure to get the bolts and nuts sprayed with some Kroil for a couple days prior to install. Also be ready for some of the bolts to be seized in place too. Core sells a complete set of replacement hardware at a decent price. Be sure to use plenty of antiseize when you put the new parts in.👍
^^^^This. Depending on how bad the rust is, you may end up with bolts siezed to the steel sleeves in the stock arms. I've seen more of these than I care to remember. If you do end up here, a reciprocating saw makes quick work of removing the bolts.
 
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I've already completely redone my rear end so I've dealt with all the seized bolts. Big ass breaker bar will free it one way or another.
 
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kind of piggy backing on this thread, seems like the Core 4x4 look nice and at 200 in the tier one with new hardware is not awful, how would they compare to the Metalcloaks they are a bit more but my local off road shop stocks a lot of their stuff.
 
I haven't used Metalcloaks but the Core 4×4 are good beefy units. The only improvement would be at the mounting point. If you are looking at the same ends then there would be little to gain with the Metalcloak. Core also uses JohnnyJoints. They seem to be the best ends out there. So if you are comparing similar ends then go with the one you happen to like the color of.
 
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kind of piggy backing on this thread, seems like the Core 4x4 look nice and at 200 in the tier one with new hardware is not awful, how would they compare to the Metalcloaks they are a bit more but my local off road shop stocks a lot of their stuff.

Problem with Core tier 1 is it uses normal bushings on a beefy arm. That's a real good way to rip the mount right off. You're much better off with stock arms.

Tier two is better, since one end is a Johnny Joint. Tier three is nice, but then you're at a price where the Currie or Savvy arms start to be an option and they are the best you can get.

My opinion, stick with stock arms unless you need Savvy arms, or you can afford it and just feel like pimping it out.
 
So I just had a quick question here. I got another set of C4x4 arms for the rear and I'm about to swap in a Dana 44.
The arms I bought are Tier 2 with a Johnny joint on only one end.
The JJ should be going on the Diff end and not the Frame correct?
That makes sense to me but I figured I'd double check.