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Control arms for stock height?

GASnBRASS

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I'm looking to see what control arms anyone is running at stock or slightly higher.
I currently have stock arms with JKS rear UCA for the SYE.
Are there any arms that adjust shorter than stock length, specifically the rear LCA?

And bushing preference: clevites or JJ?
 

Goatman

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What if you just get lower adjustable arms and make them slightly longer than stock? Same end result of moving the pinion.
I don't know if adjusting shorter could cause driveshaft to run out of compression and lock up or cause a bind.
 

JMT

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JJ

Don’t know about arms, but you need upper and lower to adjust pinion
 
OP
GASnBRASS

GASnBRASS

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What if you just get lower adjustable arms and make them slightly longer than stock? Same end result of moving the pinion.
I don't know if adjusting shorter could cause driveshaft to run out of compression and lock up or cause a bind.
Making the lowers longer would point the pinion down, opposite direction it needs to go. I will be getting new driveshafts after the arm swap.
 
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GASnBRASS

GASnBRASS

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JJ

Don’t know about arms, but you need upper and lower to adjust pinion
I can get the pinion at the proper angle with just the adjustable uppers, but I need to pull the lower arms forward just a tad cause the diff cover is contacting the gas skid.
 
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jjvw

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Is there more going on than just a small lift, like a raised skid or more shock travel than stock?
 

JMT

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I can get the pinion at the proper angle with just the adjustable uppers, but I need to pull the lower arms forward just a tad cause the diff cover is contacting the gas skid.
Right.

I also am wondering what is going on here.
 
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GASnBRASS

GASnBRASS

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I have a mild tummy tuck clayton skid and some rubi take off coils, but I may get some 1"-2" springs in the future (33's and metalcloak fenders won't need much lift for my wheeling). I had DS vibes and rather than drop the Tcase skid or MML I opted for an AA SYE. I've decided to change it for a JB super short SYE to get a longer rear DS. I have an OX locker in the rear diff that uses a very thick cover, and it's contacting my Rokmen gas skid. Not severely, but enough that I'd like to pull the whole axle forward a quarter inch or so. My stock control arm bushings are pretty much shot, hence why I'm inquiring about adjustable arms that can adjust shorter than factory length on near stock ride heights.
 

jjvw

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That's an increasingly difficult combination of specific parts and problems. Too bad that the cover can't be easily changed.

I recall Savvy arms being able to go shorter than stock.
 
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k-huevo

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I have a mild tummy tuck clayton skid...I may get some 1"-2" springs in the future...I opted for an AA SYE. I've decided to change it for a JB super short SYE to get a longer rear DS...
An AA SYE isn't a disadvantage at the lift height you're proposing with the Clayton skid. If the current DS has proper length to articulate given the limits short shocks will allow, I recommend keeping the AA SYE. There's nothing wrong with making the swap based on whatever other value you attach to a JB SS.
 

Fouledplugs

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I've decided to change it for a JB super short SYE to get a longer rear
What made you go this direction? Cant you just cut the tank skid and fab in some room for the Dif cover?

Have you contacted Ox locker to inquire if they offer any other covers for the rear diff you are running?
 
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GASnBRASS

GASnBRASS

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I haven't contacted OX, since the locker actuator fork is integrated into the cover I figured they only make one cover for it. The upper face of the cover rubs the forward side of the gas skid. I could relieve a spot in the skid, and maybe grind a bit more off the edge of the diff cover. That might be enough clearance, just figured since my stock bushings are shot I might as well upgrade the arms to fully adjustables.

I already have the JB kit sitting on the shelf waiting to go in. There is nothing wrong with the AA SYE per se, but I've been dealing with the infamous TJ hwy harmonic vibrations and I'm at my wits end trying everything to rid them. With the JB super short SYE it will tuck the output yoke tighter into the Tcase so there is a lesser chance for any runout tolerance of the output shaft to create any vibration. Tucking it into the Tcase will also slightly improve the DS angles to minimize running angle induced vibes under load or coast.
 

JMT

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I'm trying not to be critical, but this build seems like it's trying to do every thing contrary to status quo just to see if it will work. In the end, I hope it does work. Sounds like a lot of work to get there though. If you shorten the lower CA's, will you move the wheel out of center of the wheel well?

I think I would see if I could trim away enough of the gas tank skid to get the clearance. It would be free.
 

k-huevo

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Concerning wheel center, shortening lowers balances lengthening uppers for the minor distance the OP needs. Combining adjustable lowers with his UCAs will provide a means for squaring the rear axle also, which may require just a little tuck on one side, and may address two issues at the same time.
 

bobthetj03

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MC lowers can adjust about an inch shorter than stock, fyi.
 
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GASnBRASS

GASnBRASS

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Lengthening the uppers and shortening the lowers should rotate the axle without moving the wheel position in the wheel well, as k-huevo suggested.

This build is not the typical "lift it and put on big tires" that everyone else does, but I've never been one to follow the crowd. Admittedly it will be a doors off top down weekend toy for me, the wife and the kid to cruise around in. It will see the occasional backwoods trail but nothing extreme like wheeling in Moab or the Rubicon. Low garage door height, the family getting in and out, ease of working under the hood, etc are all reasons I don't want to be lifting it. The front fenders are all rusted out, so rather than buying stock stamped fenders from China I'm opting to put on some MC overlines (still sitting in the box for when I finish the frame swap). The 33's should fit nicely in those new wheel wells. Since my driveline was the typical d35/d30 with crappy 3.07 gears I swapped in a D44 with new gears and locker and a HP D30 since they're both a simple bolt in swap. Some chromoly shafts and better skid plates and it'll be a nice little rig, kinda like a stock-ish TJ but with decent axles thicker skids and 33's (or my idea of what the TJ should have been from the factory).