Converting a manual transmission to a 32RH automatic transmission?

[Steve Rogers]

Hi all, Steve and Linda Rogers here, Payson, AZ. We're new to this forum and real glad to find it. Jerry Bransford, my husband just studied your how-to postings for converting standard to 32RH automatic. He knows transmissions well, having built them for over 20 years and found your postings to be very well informed and so helpful! Very thorough. He's done many conversions both ways on many different makes of vehicles (I'm the "parts finder" for him!) The only question he has and hope you can answer is, when you were talking about wiring - and said "No wiring is needed, the only wiring and connectors you need are already present and hanging above the transmission."

So, the wiring harness on our 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ (4.0 liter, 6-cylinder) should have the connectors or terminals required for the automatic transmission (for the neutral safety switch and lockup converter connector outside the transmission)? Where are these located on our Jeep?

We have located a good used 32RH automatic and all of the parts to do the conversion in Phoenix (unless someone out there has these components for sale!) but Steve doesn't want to get into wiring difficulties. Also, should the ECM be OK if it's off the same Jeep that the 32RH was in, if our Jeep is a 1998 and the Jeep the auto. trans. is coming out of is a 2001?

Thanks for your help and hope to hear from you soon!

Steve & Linda Rogers

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Hello Steve and Linda!

I found the two cables and connectors ready to be connected already positioned above the transmission area. At the most they might have be held up by zip ties but they were there and ready to be connected.

Transmission-wise, I think mine was a 2001 too. You will need the hardlines for the cooler to match or at least be close to your model year. The 2000 or 2001 hardlines I got with the transmission wouldn't fit around everything in my 97 TJ.

I'd think the 2001 ECM will be ok but I don't know. I don't recall what year ECM I installed in mine but it worked perfectly. My 2000 or 2001 transmission didn't come with the ECM so I got mine from @mrblaine who is a member here. He may recall.

Good luck with it!

 

[Steve Rogers]

Hello Jerry!

Thanks for your speedy reply. Below is our shopping list for the conversion. Steve will be rebuilding the 32RH and also modifying the engine/overhauling it. We so love our TJ - fondly named "cupcake". I think he loves that Jeep as much as he does me! haha. Your posts were so encouraging. Steve stopped buidling transmissions in 1987 when we sold our shop in Boulder, CO after 8 years.... so he wishes this conversion could be to an old 904 automatic (which the 32RH has evidently evolved from). We explored the conversion kits available to change the TJ to a Chevy 350 but you better hang onto your wallet with that!! Here's what we're after today, when we go to the junk yard in Phoenix. Steve refuses to give up his standard trans. for an exchange/core as he plans to rebuild it and sell it to help cover the cost of the conversion! He groans about the project but secretly, I think he's looking forward to it! Thanks again.... S & L

32RH 3-speed automatic transmission
Torque Converter
ECM
Shifter
Shifter cable
Flexplate
Coolant lines - transmission to radiator
Front driveshaft made for a TJ with the 32RH

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It's a fun project for sure, mine worked out really well.

I also strongly suggest you guys stick with the OE factory shifter, if that hasn't decided. I installed a slick-looking B&M shifter kit and it was a nightmare right from the beginning. Even once completed, it never did shift worth a darn. It sure looked great though.

Trust me, its good looks don't even come close to making it something you want to install... think nightmare installation and unacceptable shifting characteristics. That is caused by the fact the 32RH factory shifter's cable only makes a short run forward out of the shifter then it makes a quick 180 back to the transmission. That is why the factory shifter is so smooth and works so well.

The B&M (and Hurst) shifter cable exits out the rear of the shifter mechanism and has to make a 360 back to the front of the transmission. I ended up having to run an extra-long cable (8' if I recall correctly) so increase the bend radius enough so it could at least be shifted. Shorter cables like the 5' that came in the kit bound up due to the tight bend radiuses.

 

[mrblaine]

Hello Jerry!

Thanks for your speedy reply. Below is our shopping list for the conversion. Steve will be rebuilding the 32RH and also modifying the engine/overhauling it. We so love our TJ - fondly named "cupcake". I think he loves that Jeep as much as he does me! haha. Your posts were so encouraging. Steve stopped buidling transmissions in 1987 when we sold our shop in Boulder, CO after 8 years.... so he wishes this conversion could be to an old 904 automatic (which the 32RH has evidently evolved from). We explored the conversion kits available to change the TJ to a Chevy 350 but you better hang onto your wallet with that!! Here's what we're after today, when we go to the junk yard in Phoenix. Steve refuses to give up his standard trans. for an exchange/core as he plans to rebuild it and sell it to help cover the cost of the conversion! He groans about the project but secretly, I think he's looking forward to it! Thanks again.... S & L

32RH 3-speed automatic transmission with dipstick and tube
Torque Converter plus the 4 place bolts that hold it to the flex plate
ECM
Shifter with shifter knob/handle
Shifter cable
Flexplate plus the small center stiffener
Coolant lines - transmission to radiator and radiator has to be auto compatible with the lower ports and heat exchanger.
Front driveshaft made for a TJ with the 32RH

I added to your list plus the items below
The shifter will need the floor plate specific to the auto shifter.
There is a block off plate that covers the hole left in the firewall from removing the clutch master cylinder.
904 bulb to illuminate the shifter bezel. The lamp holder is there and tied back to the harness under the console
Shift indicator bezel
Adapter plate for the transmission skid plate that allows you to bolt the auto trans mount to the belly skid. It mounts with 4 carriage bolts.
Rear driveshaft will need to be modified for length. The 32 is the shortest trans option in the TJ behind a 4.0.
New OEM crank position sensor for the 32RH bell housing.
If the t-case is to be retained in stock form as it was supplied to the rig, the seal in the back of the 32RH will have to be extended. Alternately, a longer input can be swapped into the t-case. (too much work)
The clutch safety switch will need to be removed and the input connector moved over to it's mate on the firewall to complete the NSS circuit.
32 RH specific bolts to mount the trans to the back of the engine.
32 RH motor plate between bell housing and back of engine.
Auto brake pedal assembly which deletes the clutch pedal.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Auto brake pedal assembly which deletes the clutch pedal.

That was a good list of parts that will be helpful. I didn't bother replacing the brake pedal for one meant for an automatic though. Instead, I welded a short piece of scrap steel between the brake and clutch pedal so either could be used while wheeling, The clutch pedal made for a nice second brake pedal for those times I wanted my feet on the brake and gas pedals at the same time while offroad.

.

 

[mrblaine]

That was a good list of parts that will be helpful. I didn't bother replacing the brake pedal for one meant for an automatic though. Instead, I welded a short piece of scrap steel between the brake and clutch pedal so either could be used while wheeling, The clutch pedal made for a nice second brake pedal for those times I wanted my feet on the brake and gas pedals at the same time while offroad.

.View attachment 4863

I'm aware that you and others have done that and that awareness is specifically why I didn't mention it. I'm a stickler for things being as correct as I can make them in factory appearance when doing a swap and that mod violates that crap out of that philosophy not to mention that I two foot on the trail exclusively with the other pedals with no issue.

 

[Steve Rogers]

Can anyone give me the size of the bolts (top two bell housing bolts) - as the last Bozo that put a clutch in my 98 Wrangler TJ ROUNDED OFF THE BOLTS .... I am going to purchase a twister socket from Snap On to remedy this jackass'es workmanship. These bolts are different kind of bolts than the rest of them. There is so little room to access these bolts that it's going to be a mother to get them off. Is there a patron saint for Jeep Mechanics? St. Heinekin, I think - Thanks for any help if any of you have encountered this problem and have a fix for it. I checked the sockets from auto zone and Home Creepo, but that chinese junk wouldn't pull my 65 lb. grama off of a greased toilet seat. Thank God for Snap On. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm glad I don't know where the guy lives that put the last clutch in - we don't have enough in savings account to pay for a lawyer to get me out of the trouble I'd get in if I found him.... Steve

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The top two bolts were, at least before the bozo rounded them off, size E-12 which is an extended torx... like a male version of a torx bit opening. They should be 3/8-16 thread, 1.75" thread length.

 

[mrblaine]

Can anyone give me the size of the bolts (top two bell housing bolts) - as the last Bozo that put a clutch in my 98 Wrangler TJ ROUNDED OFF THE BOLTS .... I am going to purchase a twister socket from Snap On to remedy this jackass'es workmanship. These bolts are different kind of bolts than the rest of them. There is so little room to access these bolts that it's going to be a mother to get them off. Is there a patron saint for Jeep Mechanics? St. Heinekin, I think - Thanks for any help if any of you have encountered this problem and have a fix for it. I checked the sockets from auto zone and Home Creepo, but that chinese junk wouldn't pull my 65 lb. grama off of a greased toilet seat. Thank God for Snap On. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm glad I don't know where the guy lives that put the last clutch in - we don't have enough in savings account to pay for a lawyer to get me out of the trouble I'd get in if I found him.... Steve

To get more access, lower the back of the engine down after you take the fan shroud loose from the radiator. That will give you enough room to do anything you need either on a lift or on the ground. I do them on the ground with the rig on drive on ramps so I can sit up under the rig easily. Once the trans is off, the motor is slightly rear heavy and will drop in the back to the limit of the engine mounts without too much effort and it will only drop so far before it stops and forcing it isn't good for the mounts but it will drop a long ways.

I just replace the E-Torx with grade 8 regular bolts when needed.

The easy way to remove the boogered up versions is to take a nut and weld through the hole in the nut to the head of what is in there. That gives you something to grab onto and the heat from the welding breaks the bolt loose.

 

[mrblaine]

Can anyone give me the size of the bolts (top two bell housing bolts) -

Forgot a little tidbit of info that helps in situations like this. When it comes to trying to figure out thread pitch and diameter on the TJ motor, anything that threads into the iron block is going to be SAE not metric so that cuts your choices in half and gives you a place to start when trying to match stuff up.

 

[Steve Rogers]

Thanks for all of this!!


Question for Jerry B.... and for all out there!!

Anybody have any advice out there? I am removing transmission and clutch from 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ - had a helluva time with the top two bolts on the bell housing but finally got those two rounded-off devils to come off. NOW I've got the bell housing seized to the back of the engine, apparently the dowels are seized. Anyone experience this? Any suggestions?

Flat-backing a clutch on a 4-wheel drive in July in garage in Arizona ain't exactly a mardi gras — gotta wonder what string of bad decisions lands you in a situation like this! Never have I ever had so much trouble with a clutch job!

Would love to hear ideas, suggestions - maybe some of you out there have been through this.

Many thanks!!

Steve Rogers - Payson, AZ

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The difference in being able to slide the transmission on or off can be the difference in 1/32" of height of the transmission jack. If the transmission not in PERFECT alignment with the engine, it can seem like it is forever frozen to the engine. Every time I thought something was wrong in removing or replacing a transmission, it turned out to only need a smidgen more or less help from the jack to relieve the binding.

 

[Chris]

The difference in being able to slide the transmission on or off can be the difference in 1/32" of height on the transmission jack. If the transmission not in PERFECT alignment with the engine, it can seem like it is forever frozen to the engine. Every time I thought something was wrong in removing or replacing a transmission, it turned out to only need a smidgen more or less help from the jack to relieve the binding on the positioning pins.

Been there, done that. This is completely true. Sometimes all it takes is just the tiniest little amount and then the transmission will come on or off with ease.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks for all of this!!


Question for Jerry B.... and for all out there!!

Anybody have any advice out there? I am removing transmission and clutch from 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ - had a helluva time with the top two bolts on the bell housing but finally got those two rounded-off devils to come off. NOW I've got the bell housing seized to the back of the engine, apparently the dowels are seized. Anyone experience this? Any suggestions?

Flat-backing a clutch on a 4-wheel drive in July in garage in Arizona ain't exactly a mardi gras — gotta wonder what string of bad decisions lands you in a situation like this! Never have I ever had so much trouble with a clutch job!

Would love to hear ideas, suggestions - maybe some of you out there have been through this.

Many thanks!!

Steve Rogers - Payson, AZ

The alignment dowels which can be tight are very easily overpowered by leverage. What the bigger culprit is as has been pointed out is the alignment of the trans to the engine. The input shaft is engaged in the pilot bearing and the splines on it are engaged in the clutch disc. If you have any up or down pressure on the trans relative to the back of the motor, they will bind and lock up making removal very difficult. There is also a small sheet metal screw in the trans from the front side that goes into the bell housing on the left side that is often missed but it should only stop complete removal, not initial separation.

The same holds true for reinstalling the trans. Do not force it because that won't work no matter how hard you can do so. When it is lined up, it slides right in with very little effort, until then it doesn't matter how much you can push, it won't go.

 

[Steve Rogers]

Hi Mr. Blaine and all, thanks for your great advice. I'm hearing you about the jack height and leverage. I am also sensing that there is some oxidation of the dowels and inside the two surfaces that is keeping it from coming apart. Having built transmissions for 20 years in my own shop, the thing that got me in a dead run from the rebuilding room or office was the sound of one of my R & R guys hammering on something or forcing things when they encountered difficulty. It is often a delicate balance and being aware of all the components and their interplay with each other. My best solutions come from both others like yourselves that are willing to share, but also to a solid night's sleep. Often I will go to sleep just bewildered and will wake up with the solution - this has worked for me for years! Thank you all for taking the time to answer! (Einstein was quoted as saying when he needed to find an answer he would lay down on a cot in his office and take a nap with two steel balls in his hand and he'd tell himself that when he woke to hear the balls hitting the floor, he'd be awake and would have the answers!) I'll let you all know how this "man eater" comes out. Much appreciation - Steve

 

[LilHammer97]

I added to your list plus the items below
The shifter will need the floor plate specific to the auto shifter.
There is a block off plate that covers the hole left in the firewall from removing the clutch master cylinder.
904 bulb to illuminate the shifter bezel. The lamp holder is there and tied back to the harness under the console
Shift indicator bezel
Adapter plate for the transmission skid plate that allows you to bolt the auto trans mount to the belly skid. It mounts with 4 carriage bolts.
Rear driveshaft will need to be modified for length. The 32 is the shortest trans option in the TJ behind a 4.0.
New OEM crank position sensor for the 32RH bell housing.
If the t-case is to be retained in stock form as it was supplied to the rig, the seal in the back of the 32RH will have to be extended. Alternately, a longer input can be swapped into the t-case. (too much work)
The clutch safety switch will need to be removed and the input connector moved over to it's mate on the firewall to complete the NSS circuit.
32 RH specific bolts to mount the trans to the back of the engine.
32 RH motor plate between bell housing and back of engine.
Auto brake pedal assembly which deletes the clutch pedal.

Do you believe I could do a manual to auto swap on my 05 rubicon in this fashion? I have found a good donor motor and trans with all the factory wiring and ecm from an 06. My opda seized and tore up my cam gear and it's almost financially smarter to do the swap if possible.