Core4x4 front track bar rubs differential

jtate said:
It hits at a couple of inches of spring compression.
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So...If you really want to keep this trackbar and don't want to run a lift, you'll have to go through the process of pulling the springs and cycling the axle. Look to where you make first contact and increase the size of the bumpstop to ensure they hit before the trackbar. To be fair though, you'll need to do this if you lift it too, so maybe it just makes sense to cycle the axle.

Given that the Wrangler TJ came from the factory with approximately 4" of uptravel, and you assume the new trackbar is now hitting at 2"...I would very strongly urge you to go back to the factory bar or some version of it (tough to do, now that the taper in the factory frame mount has been drilled out).
 
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I unfortunately bought that same track bar a few years ago. It is a terrible design. Here is a picture of it next to a rockjock trackbar—note the offset. The rockjock fits very nicely with everything, the core4x4 not so much. That trackbar now for me is just scrap metal and spare Johnny joints

1D4F2071-2101-4774-98D9-0D81EA7C23C0.png
 
Mike_H said:
I would very strongly urge you to go back to the factory bar or some version of it (tough to do, now that the taper in the factory frame mount has been drilled out).
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Once the frame side mount is drilled out, are there no easy ways to go back to a stock track bar? I have a JKS track bar that’s been sitting in my basement. Only reason I haven’t installed it is I’m hesitant to drill out the frame side mount.
 
jazngab said:
Once the frame side mount is drilled out, are there no easy ways to go back to a stock track bar? I have a JKS track bar that’s been sitting in my basement. Only reason I haven’t installed it is I’m hesitant to drill out the frame side mount.
Click to expand...

No, not really. The Factory track bar uses a Tie Rod End with a taper. Once that taper is gone, you'd have to go big enough to install a taper insert and weld it in place.
 
jtate said:
I have a Core4x4 Tier 3 track bar on my 97 TJ with 0” lift. It is rubbing the differential cover as you can see in the attached photos. I have it attached as follows on the frame side, from bottom to top: bolt, flat washer, johnny joint, flat washer, mount, lock washer, nut.

Is it a big concern?

Can I do anything to provide some separation?


View attachment 409423

View attachment 409424
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if it was mine i would bend it more at the existing bend and or at the higher line.
1D4F2071-2101-4774-98D9-0D81EA7C23C0.png

@jjvw has a pic somewhere of a jig he uses in a press for that.

If it isn't hitting over the ring gear I'd be tempted to also clearance the diff cover with a sledge
 
This is my steering, but I have done the same to my track bar multiple times.
1679530383987.png


Before the cradle, I would put a couple round rods on the press deck. Just be careful how far you press because they can spit out fast and hard.
 
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Mike_H said:
The question no one has asked is if the track bar is rubbing at ride height or full stuff? If it’s Hitting at ride height, lift and/or bending it to fit is required. If it’s hitting at full stuff, then
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jjvw said:
This is my steering, but I have done the same to my track bar multiple times.
View attachment 409591

Before the cradle, I would put a couple round rods on the press deck. Just be careful how far you press because they can spit out fast and hard.
Click to expand...

And remember “a little goes a long ways”……
Er that’s what I have been told anyway.
 
jazngab said:
Only reason I haven’t installed it is I’m hesitant to drill out the frame side mount.
Click to expand...

If you have a lift, then you probably need the adj. TB.
If no lift, then keep the stock TB.
Are you thinking you might remove the lift and go back to stock?
 
JuanTJ said:
Most aftermarket track bars require more bumpstop to prevent damage. So you can put a lift kit on your Jeep ideally. Coil spacers would work and are relatively cheap. Or, you can put the stock track bar back on it(derp nevermind its drilled out).
Click to expand...
FIFY
 
LONGJP2 said:
If you have a lift, then you probably need the adj. TB.
If no lift, then keep the stock TB.
Are you thinking you might remove the lift and go back to stock?
Click to expand...
I have 2” coil springs and 1.25” BL. So on the lower end of spring lifts. I already have 2” puck bumpstop extension to keep my 33s out of the fenders. The axle is 1” shifted to the driver side which hasn’t really bothered me visually. I guess the main reasons I haven’t installed it yet are 1. I’ve been lazy to cycle my suspension, 2. I have a tendency to open a can of worms when I tamper with stuff that works fine for me i.e. track bar hitting the diff after changing TBs and 3. I have commitment issues. Not that I would ever return to stock height but I like having the option to “return to stock” if future me ever gets the itch to do so. But I would agree I just need to go ahead and install it and call it a day.
 
Just imagine how free you'll feel after you drill that mount and install that TB. Can't go back, now you're free to spend more money and modify more stuff. It worked for me. :)
 
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Core 4x4 is going to double check their measurements and send me another one.
 
Core4x4 did a great job fixing this. Their tech Spencer asked for photos and had a new track bar made with a slightly different bend. It’s on now, with no interference. It was still close, and my caster angle was higher than factory at 8.0, so I backed it off a little with the factory adjustable caster cams, and have a comfortable gap there now.
 
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