Correct order to install new control arms / lift?

[Chris]

I decided I'm just going to get off my ass and install my OME 2.5" lift, Savvy control arms, and tummy tuck myself. It's going to take a week or so having kids, but I'll leave the Jeep in the garage and do it over the period of a week or so.

Anyways, before I get started, I just want to cover my bases and make certain that I'm doing things in the correct order.

That being said, I'd appreciate any experts chiming in and telling me if anything is out of order in the installation process:

Front Suspension

1. Once the vehicle is on jack stands with the wheels removed, remove the current shocks and springs, then install the new Savvy lower adjustable control arms.
2. Once the lower control arms are installed, adjust the lower control arms so that the spring lower spring perches are dead center with the jounce bumpers. This should mean my axle is centered in the wheel well, right?
3. Remove the front upper control arms and install ONE of the Savvy adjustable upper control arms. Get the front pinion angle aligned properly (How should it be aligned in relation to the front driveshaft?), then once it's aligned, adjust the second upper control arm and install it so that there is no tension or bind whatsoever.
4. Install the front shocks.
5. Put one front wheel on and jack up the axle (on the side with the wheel) so that the jounce bumper fully hits the lower spring perch.
6. See if my tire is contacting anywhere on the fender / fender flare, or if anything else is binding underneath, and set the bump stop accordingly.
7. Once the bump stop is set, install the front springs and reassemble everything.

Rear Suspension

Same as the front I'm thinking, no?


I just want to make sure I'm doing this in the right order is all, since I only want to have to do it once!

 

[weldedcambolt]

these guys get a little crazy with the jack stands...

 

[ac_]

I decided I'm just going to get off my ass and install my OME 2.5" lift, Savvy control arms, and tummy tuck myself. It's going to take a week or so having kids, but I'll leave the Jeep in the garage and do it over the period of a week or so.

Anyways, before I get started, I just want to cover my bases and make certain that I'm doing things in the correct order.

That being said, I'd appreciate any experts chiming in and telling me if anything is out of order in the installation process:

Front Suspension

1. Once the vehicle is on jack stands with the wheels removed, remove the current shocks and springs, then install the new Savvy lower adjustable control arms.
2. Once the lower control arms are installed, adjust the lower control arms so that the spring lower spring perches are dead center with the jounce bumpers. This should mean my axle is centered in the wheel well, right?
3. Remove the front upper control arms and install ONE of the Savvy adjustable upper control arms. Get the front pinion angle aligned properly (How should it be aligned in relation to the front driveshaft?), then once it's aligned, adjust the second upper control arm and install it so that there is no tension or bind whatsoever.
4. Install the front shocks.
5. Put one front wheel on and jack up the axle (on the side with the wheel) so that the jounce bumper fully hits the lower spring perch.
6. See if my tire is contacting anywhere on the fender / fender flare, or if anything else is binding underneath, and set the bump stop accordingly.
7. Once the bump stop is set, install the front springs and reassemble everything.

Rear Suspension

Same as the front I'm thinking, no?


I just want to make sure I'm doing this in the right order is all, since I only want to have to do it once!

I think your plan is good, although if it was me I would do the CA's last then pull the springs (to cycle for bump stops), but either way will work, but for sure I would do the rears first. Mostly because if you align your front you will have to re-align it when you do the rears. Plus the rears are easier than the fronts, and less work. Get it out of the way to get warmed up.

 

[Chris]

I think your plan is good, although if it was me I would do the CA's last then pull the springs, but either way will work, but for sure I would do the rears first. Mostly because if you align your front you will have to re-align it when you do the rears. Plus the rears are easier than the fronts, and less work. Get it out of the way to get warmed up.

Good point. I probably will start with the rears.

I know I need to align the rear pinion angle with the angle of the driveshaft, but is it the same for the front pinion as well?

 

[ac_]

Good point. I probably will start with the rears.

I know I need to align the rear pinion angle with the angle of the driveshaft, but is it the same for the front pinion as well?

Yes both will be off, but that is all you are align for in the rear, In the front you are going to align the front wheels and the pinion angle.

I would do the rears then do the fronts, then when you are happy align the rear pinion angle and the front pinion angle and align the wheels last when everything is buttoned up.

You are going to want to align the pinion angles with all of the new springs in. That is why I suggested doing the CA's last because you are only going two inches you technically can get away with not changing the CA's, so you can make the adjustment when you replace them with the new springs in. Meaning you have a starting point rather than trying to figure it out from scratch. Just leave the shock bottoms unbolted (fronts) till last, so you can yank the springs back out and cycle the suspension for bump stops. It will make more sense when you are knee deep in suspension parts!

 

[ac_]

Also, I have just recently done this so it is fresh in my head, but I did not put adjustable control arms in mine, so I am suggesting how I would do it if I did based on what I did do, but @bobthetj03 is the master at cycling the front end and squaring it up! I know it seems overwhelming looking at all of those parts and starting, but once you get in there it will start to make sense and it will all come to you as you are doing it. No sweat.

Well that last part is a lie. There will be sweat, and probably a little blood, but the reward will be awesome and worth it!

Take tons of pictures! (not of the blood!)

 

[JMT]

Id think the new coil springs would have to be in first before putting the CA’s in.

 

[toximus]

Start soaking all of the bolts now with penetrating oil. A torch will also help if bolts are rusted in. If you plan on doing more work like this in the future invest in a good impact driver.

1) Support jeep by frame. Support axle with floor jack or bottle jack.

2) Remove trackbar and swaybar (or only axle side if you're reusing.).

3) Loosen all controls arms on both sides. (2 bolts per arm)

4) Remove shocks. If the fronts don't want to unbolt you can snap them off easily by pulling.

5) Remove the coils.

6) change out control arms. Only do 1 at a time. If the front lowers are seized you will need to cut the bolt on each side of the arm. Be careful not to cut the bracket!

7) Install new coils and shocks.

8) with the Jeep on the ground, rock it a few times and install the trackbar. You can also turn left or right to move the axle slightly for alignment. If you are reusing stock control arms or any with a bushing, torque them now.

9) reinstall sway bar, use longer links.

Be prepared to make several runs to the store for bolts, nuts, and washers. Only replace with grade 8 or class 10.9!

You might need longer brake lines. YJ lines work perfectly since they are 2" longer.

Use antiseize on all bolts.

 

[toximus]

Adjust your control arms at the end. After you add in bs extension you may need to adjust.

 

[Chris]

Id think the new coil springs would have to be in first before putting the CA’s in.

Hmmm, why would that be the case? I'm not entirely sure myself. Maybe there's more than one way to do it.

Start soaking all of the bolts now with penetrating oil. A torch will also help if bolts are rusted in. If you plan on doing more work like this in the future invest in a good impact driver.

I'm fortunate enough that my TJ doesn't have an ounce of rust anywhere on it (the frame is nearly pristine), so I'll probably be able to get most of the bolts out without any hassle as was the case on my last TJ. Gotta love PNW cars!

7) Install new coils and shocks.

Don't you think it would be a better idea to add the new coils as the very last step? I say that because I would think I'd want to add the bump stops first, then add the coils, as oppose to putting the coils on, then taking them off again to add the bump stops.

 

[Chris]

I'm also concerned about how I set the front pinion angle. I know how to set the rear, but how to I go about determining what the front pinion angle should be/

The other concern is how I set the lower control arm length. My thought on that is that I try to center the jounce bumpers in the middle of the lower spring perches, which should make the axle (and wheels) center in the wheel well.

 

[JMT]

Hmmm, why would that be the case? I'm not entirely sure myself. Maybe there's more than one way to do it.

How could you know the correct CA length without the coil springs mounted and the Jeep on the ground? Only then can you see where your wheel will be in the wheel well at 2-2.5” of lift. That’s just my thinking. Seemed to agree with toximus and one other

 

[ac_]

I'm also concerned about how I set the front pinion angle. I know how to set the rear, but how to I go about determining what the front pinion angle should be/

The other concern is how I set the lower control arm length. My thought on that is that I try to center the jounce bumpers in the middle of the lower spring perches, which should make the axle (and wheels) center in the wheel well.

The reason why I suggested putting in the CA's last is so you dno't have to adjust them twice. You will actually adjust them when you get your new springs in. Once you get the new spring in the front with the new stockers you will have ta starting point. You know what size to make the top to start with you can make them the same size as stock and replace those one at a time. then on the bottom undo one side and remove the other and adjust it for pinion angle with a gauge. Mine stock was 7 degrees and after my 2 inch lift it is about 10. I believe @Jerry Bransford suggests a 6 degree angle. That is where I would start. Put you new lower in, so your pinion is 6 degrees then tighten it up and then lengthen your last one so it slips right in. then yank the springs again and cycle it. and check for squareness. That is my suggestion Although since I invited Jerry to this party he will probably give you better info.

I should note that on mine the front lowers will need to be adjusted because I need the pull the pinion down in the front, and din the rear the uppers will need to be adjusted because I need to push the pinion up. You mileage may vary.

 

[toximus]

Don't you think it would be a better idea to add the new coils as the very last step? I say that because I would think I'd want to add the bump stops first, then add the coils, as oppose to putting the coils on, then taking them off again to add the bump stops.

You're not going to be able to add bumpstops until you have the shocks in. You probably can't get the coils in with the shocks on. Unless you are using a compressor? But then you're just making things harder on yourself.

 

[toximus]

How could you know the correct CA length without the coil springs mounted and the Jeep on the ground? Only then can you see where your wheel will be in the wheel well at 2-2.5” of lift. That’s just my thinking. Seemed to agree with toximus and one other

Because you center the axle at full bump. Not at ride height.

 

[Chris]

You're not going to be able to add bumpstops until you have the shocks in. You probably can't get the coils in with the shocks on. Unless you are using a compressor? But then you're just making things harder on yourself.

I was planning on leaving the bottom of the shocks unbolted and then adding in the coils after I cycle the suspension.

I’m not using compressors. Made that mistake once before, never again.

 

[Chris]

The reason why I suggested putting in the CA's last is so you dno't have to adjust them twice. You will actually adjust them when you get your new springs in. Once you get the new spring in the front with the new stockers you will have ta starting point. You know what size to make the top to start with you can make them the same size as stock and replace those one at a time. then on the bottom undo one side and remove the other and adjust it for pinion angle with a gauge. Mine stock was 7 degrees and after my 2 inch lift it is about 10. I believe @Jerry Bransford suggests a 6 degree angle. That is where I would start. Put you new lower in, so your pinion is 6 degrees then tighten it up and then lengthen your last one so it slips right in. then yank the springs again and cycle it. and check for squareness. That is my suggestion Although since I invited Jerry to this party he will probably give you better info.

I should note that on mine the front lowers will need to be adjusted because I need the pull the pinion down in the front, and din the rear the uppers will need to be adjusted because I need to push the pinion up. You mileage may vary.

Two things:

1) Are you talking about the front pinion angle? That’s what I’m talking about.

2) The reason I was planning on doing the control arms first is because all of the control arms are double adjustable, meaning the lowers and the uppers. That’s one nice thing about the Savvy control arms. You can install them once and never have to remove them to adjust.

 

[bobthetj03]

Ok, you have double adjustable CA's, so this will be pretty easy for you. My take on it, support jeep with jack stands on the axles so the weight of the jeep is on the suspension. Remove the rear control arms, one at a time. Make your new CA's same length as stock. Do the rear, then the front, keeping the new CA's same length as the stockers. Torque all the arms. Now put the jack stands on the frame to unload the suspension, unbolt your sway bars, remove shocks. You should be able to pull the rear springs out at this point, but the fronts may require you to remove the front track bar axle side to get enough droop to get the fronts out. Your new springs are longer, so getting them back in may take some persuasion. A long pry bar will be helpful in this. I hate spring compressors, so try your best not to use them if you can help it. Once you have the old springs/shocks out you can pull the jounce bumpers and put the axles at full bump. This is where you can now adjust the control arms to center the axles in the wheel wells and get your bumps centered. Pay close attention to track bar clearance to the front diff and adjust till there is no contact. Watch the rear tb as well so it doesn't hit the gas tank skid or rear diff cover. Once you get that all dialed in, put your jounce bumpers back in, cycle your suspension for tire clearance, add your extended bumps. Depending on how much bump you'll need in the front, you may need to remove the bumps when installing the front springs and then screw them in with the spring unloaded so you can snake them thru the coils and bolt them down. Rears shouldn't be a problem since the extended bumps are on the upper perch. New springs in, install new shocks, sway bar links, and anything else you had to unbolt and torque everything down. Get the wheels back on and back on the ground, and give the jeep a good shake to get everything to settle. Now you can deal with pinion angles. If you are sticking with the stock rear drive shaft, then you the rear pinion angle parallel with the rear output yoke of the TC. The front pinion angle should be as close to parallel with the front drive shaft as possible. This is a juggling act with the caster angle, so get it close(which it should already be anyways), and move on. From this point, you'll test drive for vibes, and drop the TC skid if needed.

 

[bobthetj03]

To add, you can bolt on your new shocks while you are adjusting for bumps to make sure you aren't bottoming them out, but you'll probably be ok there since you'll be bumping for 32's and your tires will rub long before your shocks will bottom out. This is the part where you could play around with shock lengths to get more droop while at the same time keeping the springs from unseating. It can be a slippery slope.

 

[bobthetj03]

I'd suggest driving it around for a bit after the lift to make sure all the bugs are worked out. If you have to drop the TC a bit, so be it. That'll all change when you do the TT, and you'll be re-adjusting the pinion angles again anyway.