Extended front and rear bump stops and longer sway bar end links or discos up front.
Cost and quality efficient Jeep build for hard working high school noob
- Thread starter Bfryant44
- Start date
This is a great setup for 33" tires, you're heading in the right direction. Your new lifted springs should serve you for awhile without sagging. You may also consider an adjustable front track bar. It's possible you won't need it at only 2" of lift. There's also a method to reuse your OE track bar by drilling a new mounting hole to adjust the axle location. Don't forget the wheel suggestion made above. You'll need a different backspacing to run the 33x12.5 tires without rubbing.
That was the implication when I mentioned "longer driveshaft". A SYE kit must be paired with a longer double cardan driveshaft.
The OP specifically asked about the direct use and purpose of a SYE. I wasn't trying to sell him on anything, just trying to be helpful.
I've read of numerous folks who install a standard length SYE and, later down the road, wish the had gone with a super short in the first place. That was the reason I went with a super short.
I've always made my own bump stops in the past using aluminum round stock and/ or hockey pucks. I'm sure someone will chime in here. I know the Currie adjustable stops are popular, albeit pricey.
Alright so with the addition of
Bumpstops: Daystar adjustable bump stops
Wheels: pro comp 69 series 15x8 polished chrome: $560
This puts my grand total at roughly: $1600
I do not want to exceed $1600-1700 but if it is what I must do for the sake of my vehicle I understand.
That being said, are new sway bar end links or discos and an adjustable front track bar essential? Or are they a suggested mod down the road that I don’t necessarily need to worry about right now like an SYE or driveshaft.
Thank you!
-Bryce
Bumpstops: Daystar adjustable bump stops
Wheels: pro comp 69 series 15x8 polished chrome: $560
This puts my grand total at roughly: $1600
I do not want to exceed $1600-1700 but if it is what I must do for the sake of my vehicle I understand.
That being said, are new sway bar end links or discos and an adjustable front track bar essential? Or are they a suggested mod down the road that I don’t necessarily need to worry about right now like an SYE or driveshaft.
Thank you!
-Bryce
If you can swing it, get JKS links. They are truly worth the money.
In case you haven't considered 33x10.5-15 tires, they are also an option. The narrower footprint will handle better on the road and there is no need to replace the wheels...unless you want to.
If I were to put off any mods for this lift height. It would be the track bars.
An off center axle for a few months isn’t going to break anything.
And a strong 2nd on stepping back to 33-10.50’s
Oh, as far as sway ar links go. You don’t “need” a $150 set. There are plenty of DIY write ups arond to do it for less than $50
An off center axle for a few months isn’t going to break anything.
And a strong 2nd on stepping back to 33-10.50’s
Oh, as far as sway ar links go. You don’t “need” a $150 set. There are plenty of DIY write ups arond to do it for less than $50
This is what I just installed last weekend...smooth like warm butter. Actually drives better than it did stock except that I can feel the higher center of gravity.
4 Rancho 5000x shocks LINK (set of 4 $203.96) RS55239/RS55240.
4 BDS 2" lift springs rear 034206 front 034204 LINK
RC Front adjustable track bar LINK
Rear track bar bracket LINK
JKS Quicker Disconnects LINK
Rusty's 1" MML, rubber (removed the little vibes I had) LINK
3/4" front spacers (removed the rake) LINK
This came to a grand total of $884.77 and got me about 2.5 lift in the rear and just about 3" up front with no vibes...results may vary.
Hopefully these links work.
Disclaimer: I have no experience with the other brands and suggestions, but I am fully confident that you will enjoy whichever way you go. Have fun with your new toy.
J-Just
E-Empty
E-Every
P-Pocket
I'd also vote for the 33x10.5 tire but it sounds like you already bought the 12.5 wide desert hawks?
Either way, swapping to a 33" tire will require moving the tires outboard to avoid contact. The recommended method is wheels with reduced backspacing. Wheel spacers will work also on a tighter budget.
I've been wondering why the previous owner of my jeep put on a transfer case drop when there was only a 2" budget boost, now you have me thinking it must have had vibes because the u joints were shot. I know my driveshaft u joints are pretty bad (I'll be replacing all 5 soon) so the previous owner must have felt vibes and assumed the pinion angle was too high
I'm still learning as well, but from what I have read extended front and rear sway bar links are essential. I considered the jks disconnects because they look really nice, but since my lift came with plain extended links I am going to save some money and make some homemade disconnects
Rubicon88
TJ Addict
And remember...who knows what someone at a 4wd shop told them.
Just because they work there doesn't automatically make them expert. They might be no more an expert than a sales clerk at the 7-11
Most people buy a t-case drop instead of just using a few washers when they get minor vibes. Most are huge 1.5".
Rubicon88
TJ Addict
Its humorously dumb when we get a customer who spent all this money...some well over a thousand or two for a "lift kit" and yet they still have solid sway bar links. Literally an expensive lift that can never be utilized as the links limit travel drastically!!
I guess they just want to look chill at the local vehicle hang spot.
If you want your suspension to function (tj's simple suspension design works really well) you need to get those sway bar links to disconnect. You need proper length of your new spring height and ones thatvdisconnect.
Good luck
Welcome to the forum @Bfryant44.
We here can be little more than helpful especially expending someone else cash. I guess is a TJ thing...
Seeing your list and your budget I will strongly suggest you this kit.
https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-...duct/old-man-emu-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/I do use it and abused on my LJ, Drive from CLE - OH to Raush Creek, Windrock, Gulches, AOAA, Jeep Beach play for the weekend then drives back w no issues. Never use adjustable CA until I get a set of Core 4 x 4 Tier 3 set to try on, this yield no difference until i went to heavy off-road so no think on it much as if you need it, just upper rears will suffice.
This is a complete solution, bolt on on a weekend, OME that you mention, and good set of instructions if you are mechanical inclined will help you to set it in correctly. Plus me and other can help on the process. Dirk on DPG is very helpful especially when selecting the spring rate.
For the BML use spacers like the savvy ones and kept your OEM body mounts.
Research on TC skid drop, TJ’s tend to be picky and you may need to add a washer or two. No need to change the skid for now but plant on, that’s a subject for another time.
You may like to start researching on a TC shifter cable. Not necessary but once you lift the body and add MML angles change and that linkage turn stubborn. I do use Advance adapters but is many others.
We here can be little more than helpful especially expending someone else cash. I guess is a TJ thing...
Seeing your list and your budget I will strongly suggest you this kit.
https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-...duct/old-man-emu-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/I do use it and abused on my LJ, Drive from CLE - OH to Raush Creek, Windrock, Gulches, AOAA, Jeep Beach play for the weekend then drives back w no issues. Never use adjustable CA until I get a set of Core 4 x 4 Tier 3 set to try on, this yield no difference until i went to heavy off-road so no think on it much as if you need it, just upper rears will suffice.
This is a complete solution, bolt on on a weekend, OME that you mention, and good set of instructions if you are mechanical inclined will help you to set it in correctly. Plus me and other can help on the process. Dirk on DPG is very helpful especially when selecting the spring rate.
For the BML use spacers like the savvy ones and kept your OEM body mounts.
Research on TC skid drop, TJ’s tend to be picky and you may need to add a washer or two. No need to change the skid for now but plant on, that’s a subject for another time.
You may like to start researching on a TC shifter cable. Not necessary but once you lift the body and add MML angles change and that linkage turn stubborn. I do use Advance adapters but is many others.
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