Could it be the springs?

Ranchos site states those part numbers are for a vehicle height of 3.5”. It seems about right for the fit. But, obviously something is wrong.


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Ranchos site states those part numbers are for a vehicle height of 3.5”. It seems about right for the fit. But, obviously something is wrong.
You mean other than what I said in post #2 above?

I.E. Rancho's website shock length recommendations will cause you to select a shock that is longer than it should be. Even when speaking verbally with a supposedly knowledgeable Rancho rep the shocks I received were obviously too long... I didn't even drive the Jeep after seeing the problem, I removed the new shocks and reinstalled the old shocks to await the shorter/correct length replacements.
 
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Ranchos site states those part numbers are for a vehicle height of 3.5”. It seems about right for the fit. But, obviously something is wrong.


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I have the 55255's on mine. They need about 3" of bump stop extension or the mounts need to be moved and welded. It is what it is to fit that shock and Rancho doesn't tell you how to really do it.
 
Yes, you were correct, never disputed that. You guys definitely know your stuff here. I was just trying to figure out what happened. I spent 400 on shocks and labor and have something that doesn’t work. The question in my head became, was the installer inept? Or did he order based on what he knew? Which it seems he based the order on what he knew, but of course didn’t do all of these checks stated in this thread. Which leaves me in the situation of things not working as they should. If he had done these checks, then he could have looked at the measurements on their site. I would have gladly paid more for him to have done this. I just didn’t/don’t know anything about this part and was the primary reason to take it to someone with experience to get the right shocks for the lift.


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What is the problem with just taking it back to the shop and telling them the shocks they installed are bottoming out because they selected too long of a size?
 
It’s been a year. Technically their warranty is over. I just didn’t notice. I will see what he says. I did the zip tie trick. The photo is where the zip tie landed from a 5 mile asphalt drive home from work last night.
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Is there a way to verify that the shocks listed on the written receipt are the ones actually installed on your Jeep? It's not unheard of that an order taker's input and an installer's install were not the same.
 
Unless it’s on the shock body, it would be tough. Maybe it’s embossed on there. It seems like it has enough travel on asphalt until you stress it with a drainage ditch or railroad tracks.


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Unless it’s on the shock body, it would be tough. Maybe it’s embossed on there. It seems like it has enough travel on asphalt until you stress it with a drainage ditch or railroad tracks.


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The model number is stamped on the body. FWiW, I can easily use 5" of up just going to the grocery store.
 
You must be a more spirited driver than I am. :) I didn’t measure but that was only a few inches as a guess. I just happened to hit the drainage ditch faster than normal.


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I talked to the mechanic at the place that did the install. He agrees, there has to be a better way. But, didn’t promise anything because the guy that orders and makes decisions won’t be back for a little over a week. After he bounced the back end, the zip tie went to the top. So, I have to wait a bit to see where I will be. You guys have been fantastic about helping me, thank you all. I’m not going to touch anything until he gets back and sees it. Naturally, I’m hanging onto this thread.


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I talked to the mechanic at the place that did the install. He agrees, there has to be a better way. But, didn’t promise anything because the guy that orders and makes decisions won’t be back for a little over a week. After he bounced the back end, the zip tie went to the top. So, I have to wait a bit to see where I will be. You guys have been fantastic about helping me, thank you all. I’m not going to touch anything until he gets back and sees it. Naturally, I’m hanging onto this thread.


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If your shop wants to install shocks that don't bottom out every time. Then they are going to have to start removing the coils and jounces so that they can cycle the suspension. That will cost time.
 
And I’m willing to pay for that. I told him that it sounded like that needed to be done. We will see what happens.


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And I’m willing to pay for that. I told him that it sounded like that needed to be done. We will see what happens.


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By now, you may understand the process better. ;)
 
I’m getting there. It’s certainly not solidly in my head yet. But, at least I have a bit of an idea of what happens in there. Right now I know that my shocks essentially travel 3.5” and my Jeep will travel 6.25”. Something has to give.


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The RS55239/RS55241's fit 2.5" lift according to Rancho, but like Jerry said, they run long in the tooth.
 
OK, so the gentleman returned from vacation and I had a chance to talk to him a bit. His guy measured what I had going. 3 1/2” travel in the shock and 6 1/4” travel to the bump stop. I have not measured that by removing the spring, nor have they. He said he bought shorter shock bodied shocks and got me 5” of travel. He also stated that we can’t give in one area without losing in the other. Because there is only so much shock length. So, as I understand he has gained me 1 1/2” towards the bump stop but that is going to cost me in the tire off the ground droop. Mind you, I don’t wheel hard so tire off the ground isn’t as important as my upward travel when I hit something. There must be a way folks deal with this. He already has the shocks in hand and although the original install was a year ago he still is willing to work with me on costs.


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The appropriate shock length will split it's overall travel roughly in half.
Roughly. Are you closer to that being the case?