Could use some help with shocks

JamesAndTheSahara

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Hey all!

So I am really trying to understand my current shock/lift setup as I don’t know what is good versus bad. My lift kit is 3” Savvy/Currie Springs and the 3-4.5” Fox IPF 2.0 Shocks and a 1.25” body lift. Currently I have 33” tires, 3.5” of front bumpstop, and 4” of rear bumpstop. This is at full compression of the shock leaving 2” of room on all fenders at max bump. I have Currie rear shock extenders. I have very limited shock travel at ride height and wanted to ask if this much bumpstop with a body lift is acceptable/normal? Would a longer shock would yield better results or am I missing something? I asked Gerald about my current situation and he reccomended I removed the rear shock extenders in the rear. He said the shocks are the correct shocks for the coils.

Fox Shock Part Number: ‭980-24-643 127515‬

Front shocks full bump:

BA576380-4547-4EC0-9389-DDAF14A068FC.jpeg
E2D0041C-F763-4F75-B796-3370829D977F.jpeg


Front tire shocks fully compressed:

DDF7C35F-488D-4B9F-B380-8DEED786A863.jpeg
D8944C35-033C-4895-A753-824059A94BD0.jpeg


Rear shocks fully compressed:

112B6F35-41C9-4770-99F5-BAEA27CD89AE.jpeg


Ride height front:

2236F1CA-EE3C-44C8-957C-28371B43C019.jpeg
 
I’ll defer to the experts but it looks like the bump stops were created to save the shocks from bottoming out. Savy/ Currie/ Fox are great names, no need to fret there. If I had to guess and please correct me if I’m wrong, i think you would need more travel in the shocks so that you can lessen the bumpstops to gain more flex.
 
So Savvy says those shocks are correct? Umm?

Ok, here is my suggestion, Lets take the shocks out of the equation for a moment. If you get the shop time, remove the shocks and focus on the tires as your limiter first. Find the limit to where your tires don't rub, then measure where your shocks would be for a compressed length. Deduct 0.5" for a shock compressed length cushion. Next, let's shop for shock that has a compressed length that will match your setup.
 
I’ll defer to the experts but it looks like the bump stops were created to save the shocks from bottoming out. Savy/ Currie/ Fox are great names, no need to fret there. If I had to guess and please correct me if I’m wrong, i think you would need more travel in the shocks so that you can lessen the bumpstops to gain more flex.
I agree. I added the bump stops so the shock wouldn’t fully bottom out. I appreciate the response!

So Savvy says those shocks are correct? Umm?

Ok, here is my suggestion, Lets take the shocks out of the equation for a moment. If you get the shop time, remove the shocks and focus on the tires as your limiter first. Find the limit to where your tires don't rub, then measure where your shocks would be for a compressed length. Deduct 0.5" for a shock compressed length cushion. Next, let's shop for shock that has a compressed length that will match your setup.
To the first part, my thoughts exactly. The part numbers match up so I really don’t know if its a fox issue or what. Its hard to keep pulling the springs/shocks to get numbers so i really want to avoid doing it more than I have to. I can remove the spring next week and get that answer. I’d really like to keep the uber expensive shocks but if this is going the way I think Rancho’s are in my future.
 
Hey all!

So I am really trying to understand my current shock/lift setup as I don’t know what is good versus bad. My lift kit is 3” Savvy/Currie Springs and the 3-4.5” Fox IPF 2.0 Shocks and a 1.25” body lift. Currently I have 33” tires, 3.5” of front bumpstop, and 4” of rear bumpstop. This is at full compression of the shock leaving 2” of room on all fenders at max bump. I have Currie rear shock extenders. I have very limited shock travel at ride height and wanted to ask if this much bumpstop with a body lift is acceptable/normal? Would a longer shock would yield better results or am I missing something? I asked Gerald about my current situation and he reccomended I removed the rear shock extenders in the rear. He said the shocks are the correct shocks for the coils.

Fox Shock Part Number: ‭980-24-643 127515‬

Front shocks full bump:

View attachment 29210 View attachment 29211

Front tire shocks fully compressed:

View attachment 29212 View attachment 29213

Rear shocks fully compressed:

View attachment 29214

Ride height front:

View attachment 29215
The fronts are close but not quite. The bump stops want to touch like you have them since you are using non compressible hockey pucks, when the shock is almost bottomed out without taking into account the rubber cushion on the shock rod.
The rears need the shock extenders removed and tossed in the trash where they belong. Clearance the perches instead.
The front upper balljoints are about to fail, press them the rest of the way in and you should not have installed knurled ball joints. When you put a non knurled in, you'll find that the holes have been ruined and they won't stay in.

FYI, now you know why I don't use or like 3" springs. Trying to get stuff dialed in is much harder than it is with a 4" spring.
 
The fronts are close but not quite. The bump stops want to touch like you have them since you are using non compressible hockey pucks, when the shock is almost bottomed out without taking into account the rubber cushion on the shock rod.
The rears need the shock extenders removed and tossed in the trash where they belong. Clearance the perches instead.
The front upper balljoints are about to fail, press them the rest of the way in and you should not have installed knurled ball joints. When you put a non knurled in, you'll find that the holes have been ruined and they won't stay in.

FYI, now you know why I don't use or like 3" springs. Trying to get stuff dialed in is much harder than it is with a 4" spring.
Wish I knew 3” springs were going to be more cumbersome than the 4” springs. I had a shop install the spicer joints in the front, although with it being a new axle the spicer joints just spun, so they decided to install the mevotech which I have already removed and re-pressed twice. I can toss the rear shock and trim the perch easy. If I compress the shock down to the rubber cushion it will only remove .5” of bumpstop leaving me with 3” remaining iirc in the front. I was jacking the axle up to where the hockey pucks and the jounce bumper cup started to compress against. When I get time next week when the snow melts I’ll pull the front springs and re-check the bumpstops compressing the rest of the rod, leaving just the rubber cushion uncompressed.

Thanks for the help @mrblaine.
 
I think one of the points he was making is the shock shifters you have in the rear are limiting the shocks travel some, so by eliminating them, trimming the perch pad to suit, and mounting the shock back to the factory lower mount, you should gain a bit more shock travel, and thus can reduce some of that bump stop extension, since your tires still have plenty of clearance before rub.
 
I think one of the points he was making is the shock shifters you have in the rear are limiting the shocks travel some, so by eliminating them, trimming the perch pad to suit, and mounting the shock back to the factory lower mount, you should gain a bit more shock travel, and thus can reduce some of that bump stop extension, since your tires still have plenty of clearance before rub.
No I know that will help in the rear, but it doesn’t address the bumpstopping in the front, no?
 
No I know that will help in the rear, but it doesn’t address the bumpstopping in the front, no?

No, it doesn't. My guess is Savvy sells the same shock for the 3" spring as they do for the 4" spring, so you get punished for running 3" springs.

If I were in your situation, I'd return the shocks, and get a shock that has a travel that plays nice with a 3" spring.
 
No, it doesn't. My guess is Savvy sells the same shock for the 3" spring as they do for the 4" spring, so you get punished for running 3" springs.

If I were in your situation, I'd return the shocks, and get a shock that has a travel that plays nice with a 3" spring.
I’m at 6 months post purchase, so returning the shocks doesn’t sound like an option. Idealistically with a 1.25” body lift on the 3” coils I think I can get the bumpstops down to 3” in the front and 3” in the back, compressing down to the shock cushion and removing shock relocators and trimming the spring perch.
 
I’m at 6 months post purchase, so returning the shocks doesn’t sound like an option. Idealistically with a 1.25” body lift on the 3” coils I think I can get the bumpstops down to 3” in the front and 3” in the back, compressing down to the shock cushion and removing shock relocators and trimming the spring perch.

I think that's the best you can hope for at this juncture unless you ditch the springs for 4" springs, or make your shocks your limiter.
 
Ah gotcha, just making sure we were on the same page.

We are. So, make your fixes to the rear and live with the travel you have, and wait to bump up to 4" springs and 35's.

Or, outboard the rears, and do Blaine's mod to the front spring perches to get some more shock real estate. You many need to sell a kidney for this one.
 
We are. So, make your fixes to the rear and live with the travel you have, and wait to bump up to 4" springs and 35's.

Or, outboard the rears, and do Blaine's mod to the front spring perches to get some more shock real estate. You many need to sell a kidney for this one.
Immediate no to the second part lol. In my dreams maybe.

I’ll make the fixes, I wanted to keep the 3” coils, because ya know it was nearly $1k for the shocks/spring combo. I’m already geared/bumpstopped for 35s on my current lift as of now lul. I’m skeptical that with 4” coils my shock situation would be better.

Edit: to the last comment I made, just observing the extended/collasped lengths of the shocks this is my best guess. I easily could be wrong and they are a match made in heaven.
 
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