CrawlTek highlines

The4bangertj said:
35s set up right (uptravel with what seems to be right at 2in extended bump stop) can use the benefit of the added clearance from a highline. It won’t use all the space that it offers but both up and back space from the highlines can be useful when really setting up the suspension up especially when doing outboards and an 11-12in shock up front. Not exactly needed as I know a few people on this forum who are running a 12in shock up front with 35s and shock height fender but they’ve done some work to make them fit. I would also love to hear more experienced guys give their ideas on different designs on highlines such as genright, poison spider, and Motobilt.
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Being one of the few with 35s and front 12s that are also positioned properly at 50/50 with springs that don't fall out, my biggest issue to overcome was the rear fender wall far moreso than the top side. My tire at full articulation rises about 3/8" above the factory sheet metal fender lip, if it were still there. The effort to make 12s work on a stockish setup is reason enough to encourage people to stick with 11s up front.
 
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jjvw said:
Being one of the few with 35s and front 12s that are also positioned properly at 50/50 with springs that don't fall out, my biggest issue to overcome was the rear fender wall far moreso than the top side. My tire at full articulation rises about 3/8" above the factory sheet metal fender lip, if it were still there. The effort to make 12s work on a stockish setup is reason enough to encourage people to stick with 11s up front.
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So is this one of those situations where Highline's would be beneficial since it moves the rear wall back? also, this might be a stupid question but don't the front springs have retainers on them and if they don't, why can't you use a spring retainer so the coil doesn't fall out and use a shorter spring?
 
Blake Stamper said:
So is this one of those situations where Highline's would be beneficial since it moves the rear wall back? ...
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Maybe. Though there is value in finding out if there is an actual problem to solve by fully cycling the axle without springs and turning the steering lock to lock.

Blake Stamper said:
... but don't the front springs have retainers on them and if they don't, why can't you use a spring retainer so the coil doesn't fall out and use a shorter spring?
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The retainers seem to have fully disappeared by 2003, maybe earlier. But even in my case, if I were to use them, that doesn't stop the top of the spring from falling out of it's seat. The nicer solution is to maintain spring pressure at full shock extension.
 
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jjvw said:
Maybe. Though there is value in finding out if there is an actual problem to solve by fully cycling the axle without springs and turning the steering lock to lock.



The retainers seem to have fully disappeared by 2003, maybe earlier. But even in my case, if I were to use them, that doesn't stop the top of the spring from falling out of it's seat. The nicer solution is to maintain spring pressure at full shock extension.
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That makes sense I didn't consider the top of the spring bucket
 
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rasband said:
For those that may not realize this: this translates to traction.
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I think I understand that concept but I'll ask anyway to make sure I understand. Since you aren't losing the pressure of the spring you have the benefit of the spring pushing the tires into the ground, therefore, increasing the amount of traction you have. So with that in consideration, using spring retainers would be the absolute worst thing you could do because not only are you no longer having the benefits of the spring pushing the axle downwards but you actually losing even more traction because the spring is not pulling instead of pushing?

Another thing I've thought of, now I understand that ground clearance is a very important thing as well, which a higher ride height yields better ground clearance but let's say ignoring that factor if someone wanted to have a lower jeep while still being able to maintain spring pressure throughout the cycle of the suspension, could you cut and box the upper spring perch 1-2 inches to lower your ride height while still using the optimal 4in springs? Much like how we outboard the shocks so we could use a longer shock?
 
Blake Stamper said:
... So with that in consideration, using spring retainers would be the absolute worst thing you could do because not only are you no longer having the benefits of the spring pushing the axle downwards but you actually losing even more traction because the spring is not pulling instead of pushing?

...
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The value of the spring retainer is that if the spring does come loose, it won't turn and fall out if it's pocket on the axle side.

Maintaining spring pressure at full shock extension does two things. It keeps the springs in place. And it keeps some amount of added force against the ground beyond the weight of the tire and axle for most of the shock travel. Though that spring force will decrease the closer it gets to the free length.
 
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jjvw said:
The value of the spring retainer is that if the spring does come loose, it won't turn and fall out if it's pocket on the axle side.

Maintaining spring pressure at full shock extension does two things. It keeps the springs in place. And it keeps some amount of added force against the ground beyond the weight of the tire and axle for most of the shock travel. Though that spring force will decrease the closer it gets to the free length.
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That makes sense.
 
Blake Stamper said:
I think I understand that concept but I'll ask anyway to make sure I understand. Since you aren't losing the pressure of the spring you have the benefit of the spring pushing the tires into the ground, therefore, increasing the amount of traction you have. So with that in consideration, using spring retainers would be the absolute worst thing you could do because not only are you no longer having the benefits of the spring pushing the axle downwards but you actually losing even more traction because the spring is not pulling instead of pushing?
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I think the retainers are typically on the bottom - so I don't think it really matters once you lose the pressure on the axle from the spring. I suppose if you have retainers on both ends then yes, at some point the weight would be decreasing on the axle.

Blake Stamper said:
Another thing I've thought of, now I understand that ground clearance is a very important thing as well, which a higher ride height yields better ground clearance but let's say ignoring that factor if someone wanted to have a lower jeep while still being able to maintain spring pressure throughout the cycle of the suspension, could you cut and box the upper spring perch 1-2 inches to lower your ride height while still using the optimal 4in springs? Much like how we outboard the shocks so we could use a longer shock?
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The only reason the 4" springs we tend to recommend are optimal is because they have a very good free length. I'd pretty much never give up clearance, so while that's possible (assuming you can find a good way to do the rears too) I think it gives up too much to really entertain for long.
 
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The4bangertj said:
Can’t you use a mud flap to get the coverage needed for the law but have them detachable for the trail? I’ve heard of that a lot but I don’t see it.
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Nah, it actually has to cover the tread, not just fly back. They don't care about your rooster tails, just coverage. 🤔
 
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Alright so I got my old fenders removed and mocked up the new fenders. Seem to line up nice. Just not 100% sure of which new bolts/nuts to use where and which original bolt/nuts to reuse. Also what’s everyone doing for a battery hold down with the new tray?

7F2DC5BE-A07C-4071-96DF-7B34097464E4.jpeg
 
SilverBullet said:
Alright so I got my old fenders removed and mocked up the new fenders. Seem to line up nice. Just not 100% sure of which new bolts/nuts to use where and which original bolt/nuts to reuse. Also what’s everyone doing for a battery hold down with the new tray?

View attachment 382076
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Factory bolts for the lower 2, they have a quickset nut for the top one in the grille. Factory bolts to the body too. Everything else is their little button heads, but I had to get longer bolts for many spots.

I welded a battery box base to their tray and added a tie down strap with all thread and wing nuts and had to cut off the bottom of the fender for mini boat sides.
 
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