wondering if that pinion is so high, it's rotated the lower mounts out in front of the axle more than below and pulling the uppers way back. thats the only thing i could think of compressing the lower and stretching the upper link space.
Currie arms aren't long enough to work with Savvy tummy tuck
- Thread starter Kevin Q
- Start date
If you have an angle finder it would be interesting to know the pinion angle & ds angle.
As far as clearance for the tc goes you can support the transmission with a jack, remove the tuck, lower the TC, put a large bolt on the tc where it's contacting the tub, and then Jack it up to dimple the tub. A bfh also works well.
Looks great.
As far as clearance for the tc goes you can support the transmission with a jack, remove the tuck, lower the TC, put a large bolt on the tc where it's contacting the tub, and then Jack it up to dimple the tub. A bfh also works well.
Looks great.
Sounds like this shop specializes in "long arms". Also bet if you let him try to fix this he would tell you that you need to buy one of his long arm kits to "fix your issues". You did good taking it out of their hands. Take your time and post the pics. We can help you out here when you're ready.
I previously had 4” savvy with savvy TT on a TJ, no issues at all. Cut your loss with the shop and use this as a chance to learn the correct way. Plenty of help on here to walk you through this. At first it may be intimidating but you’ve got this!
Do you know how much thread engagement you have? Minimum thread engagement is Dx1.08 so IIRC the Currie uppers are .75 thread so you want at least 13/16 engagement. My real question is why the shop let your TJ out the door without addressing the tcase touching the tub? That is by far easier to take care of before you put the crossmember in and a bit of a red flag to their work QC.
I knew I should have started a Jeep business. It’s hard work day in and day out though.
People expect too much from shops. I'd drop my Jeep off in a lot of forum members garages before a shop. I've used shops a lot due to the weird constraints I have when it comes to working on my Jeep. They're good at bolting stuff up, they're not good at setting stuff up. One of the problems I've faced with my Jeep is that it has a lot of good parts bolted to it, but nothing is setup correctly just because a lot of work has been done in shops.
Can't wait to finally get a garage and out of the city in a few years
Can't wait to finally get a garage and out of the city in a few years
If you weren’t so far away I’d come help ya cycle it without springs. There’s a 80% chance that rear axle is too far back, resulting in the lower arms being extended too much. I’d say there’s a 97% chance the shop didn’t cycle the suspension with the springs out and the shocks in to check clearances, and doing so would show you how much the rear axle needs to come forward. We are here to help brother, obviously some people are going to voice their dislike of shops (albeit for good reason) but going into this you didn’t know what you know now on the level of knowledge to expect. The stuff we are talking about here can be done at home with a few tools, and I’m more than willing to walk you through each step of the process to get it dialed in correctly.
The track bar is probably running right into the gas tank, or the crossmember at the least.
OP
@Blackjack I did all of the tummy tuck work. I thought I had it cleared but it's obvious that I didn't get enough space.
Thanks for the all the words of encouragement. I'll get some pictures posted later. In the meantime I need to prep for a very important work meeting this afternoon.
Thanks for the all the words of encouragement. I'll get some pictures posted later. In the meantime I need to prep for a very important work meeting this afternoon.
While I hope the OP has resolved this, is it not possible that he received some LCA's or UCA's built on a Friday at 5? I've found that this forum defends everything Savvy and points to human error (or in this case, unintelligent shops). While I cannot comment on Savvy products, I can attest that I've had another manufacturers' UCA's short. If his LCA's are threaded all the way in, his driveshaft is a couple degrees below pinion angle, and the UCA's don't have the 13/16" minimum thread engagement, then I'm arguing that something is wrong with the kit
Not picking on you or that rule but something that often piques my interest is if those rules work, then jam nuts shouldn't.
If you like people now, wait until you own a business, then you will hate everyone...especially know it all's and cheap fuckers who want everything for nothing.
I've read every post here, and want to make sure:
1. You want a picture at full stuff...He should pull the tires and shocks and cycle to full stuff. He wants the bumps in the rear to line up and hit.
2. You want at articulation.....So he should keep one side down the other stuff and bump should hit.
I ask because I have Savvy DA CAs on my 05, and 4" Currie Springs, Currie Rear adj track bar (and angled mount) and JB conversion SSYE and Savvy cable shifter all sitting here to go on when I get a week off.
Sounds like "Wheels centered at ride weight on the ground" isn't relevant....now I think I know that and want to confirm. The bumps hitting full stuff and at articulation are how I should line up axle.
Do you not have tools and a parking lot or space to make adjustments to your setup?People expect too much from shops. I'd drop my Jeep off in a lot of forum members garages before a shop. I've used shops a lot due to the weird constraints I have when it comes to working on my Jeep. They're good at bolting stuff up, they're not good at setting stuff up. One of the problems I've faced with my Jeep is that it has a lot of good parts bolted to it, but nothing is setup correctly just because a lot of work has been done in shops.
Can't wait to finally get a garage and out of the city in a few years