Currie arms aren't long enough to work with Savvy tummy tuck


someguysjeep

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edited: i found the pics.......never even made it to where it has to be.
 
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BuildBreakRepeat

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i'd like to see pics of the rear pinon angle and how much the rotation has moved the link connection locations.
this jeep thinks it has a 6" lift that pinions pointed at the front headrest's, that's gonna open the upper span and collapse the lower.

since the lower is fully compressed there is not adjustment to bring this axle forward.
if you do odd length links......whats a real short lower and a real long upper gonna do to pinion angle control through the travel with the connecting point of the lower being out front and the upper being behind the axle?
Not great things - those specific geometry issues are corrected in a mid arm or Jeep west correction. But also not terrible things, just depends on the kind of climbs expected of the Jeep....
 
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JMT

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Yikes! 7.6* is too much difference. You should aim for 28.3* on both.

Those uppers don't look like they have much more adjustment, but see if you can get more. The lowers are about as short as they can go, but shorten them the rest of the way. You could chop them and get more.

What SYE are you running? Or is this a Rubicon? I can't remember. If you're SYE or FY is too long, you could alleviate some of this by getting a SS SYE and longer DC.
 
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Blackjack

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Yikes! 7.6* is too much difference. You should aim for 28.3* on both.

Those uppers don't look like they have much more adjustment, but see if you can get more. The lowers are about as short as they can go, but shorten them the rest of the way. You could chop them and get more.

What SYE are you running? Or is this a Rubicon? I can't remember. If you're SYE or FY is too long, you could alleviate some of this by getting a SS SYE and longer DC.
It is a Rubicon which makes things difficult.
 
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Kevin Q

Kevin Q

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Alright, here is where I think I am with this...There are a lot of things at play. I need to reduce the pinion angle for a few reasons. In order to do that I really need to potentially push the axle back a little. Since my uppers are maxed out I will likely need customs and/or double adjustables. This should allow me to open up the lowers and also extend the uppers. This should reduce my angles. Of course, this all depends on cycling the suspension to check that part.
 
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Kevin Q

Kevin Q

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Cleaned up the garage and got some level readings.

IMG_3167.JPG
IMG_3168.JPG
 

Lou

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Reducing your pinion angle will make it worse. You need to increase your pinion angle.
 

mrblaine

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Alright, here is where I think I am with this...There are a lot of things at play. I need to reduce the pinion angle for a few reasons. In order to do that I really need to potentially push the axle back a little. Since my uppers are maxed out I will likely need customs and/or double adjustables. This should allow me to open up the lowers and also extend the uppers. This should reduce my angles. Of course, this all depends on cycling the suspension to check that part.
Take that little digital angle finder and set it over on the work bench to help hold it down. Now, stop thinking about that and do some actual work that will tell you where to start.
Step 1- pull the damn springs already.
Step 2- put the shocks back on, put the tires back on and jack one side up until the bump stops or shocks bottom out.
Step 3- look at what hits, what clears, what is good, what is not.
Step 4- now do the opposite side and check for same.
Step 5- jack it up evenly to full stuff where the shocks bottom out. Check bump stops. You want the bump stops to just touch with about 1/2-3/4" of shaft showing. If that isn't true, make it true.
Step 6- remove those piece of shit shock extenders. While the shock is disconnected, lower the axle until it is the correct height to install the shock and grind out the back of the spring perch in a semi-circle until you can install the shock with about a 1/4" or so clear all the way around the shock body.

Step 7- show us what you have done with pics.
 
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David Kishpaugh

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Lower arms will be 15.5" to start with. We have to completely disregard the stock length of 15.75 and fixed arm lengths of 16".
Having the pinion tipped way way up moves the tire center in the wheel well all by itself and allows the currie arms to be plenty long for use with the savvy skid as well as a 2" drop that doesn't let the drive train hang as low as savvy's mount does.
 
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sierradmax

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Here are some measurements I have. Again, I have a 4.5" Metalcloak short arm lift with a 2-1/2" tuck on an 05 Rubicon TJ

LCA: 16"
UCA: 14-3/4"
DS angle 23*
Pinion angle 21.5*
DS length (center of U-joint @ axle to rear U-joint @ double cardan): 13"
LCA center of bolt height @ ride height: 19.5"
Rear coil length @ ride height: 11-3/4"
Bottom of 241 output dampener @ ride height: 22-1/4"
 

someguysjeep

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^^11.75 ='s 4.5" of lift ?

i'm with post 130.......start from scratch get the springs out and cycle the axle.
hopefully the shocks are the correct length.
until that axle is stuffed up and we can see where it needs to be we are all just throwing crap at the wall to see what might stick. 1st establish if you can even reach the top end of the shocks with no interference, is where i'm at.

and i'm sorta confused about a 1/2" in lower link length fixing this. it'll allow the pinion angle to rotate upward more but not allow the upper to come back, since the increase is needed for drive line alignment. is this where the idea of relocating the lower link axle bracket hole came from?
 

someguysjeep

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he might /could benefit from some permanent weight on the ass end. it looks like a fat 4" to me.

are the shocks mid travel or close at ride height, now ? how does jumping back to the axle bracket effect that split, if that's where we are going?

just reading this is frustrating enough to make me wanna tear it all down and start over.
 

1904-06LJR

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Unless I'm seeing something different than anyone else, the shop put the Uppers on the lower and the Lower on the upper. I have these exact arms. The end of the control arm that IS NOT ADJUSTABLE, attaches the upper, frame mount and the johnny joint attaches to the upper axle mount. The DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE control arm is the the bottom control arm. The uppers are longer than the lowers and is effectively causing all your issues. If I'm seeing it right, the NON ADJUSTABLE end is currently mounted as the lower arm and attached to your lower axle mount. This would be incorrect and you need to swap them and re-adjust.
 
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mrblaine

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Unless I'm seeing something different than anyone else, the shop put the Uppers on the lower and the Lower on the upper. I have these exact arms. The end of the control are that IS NOT ADJUSTABLE, attaches the upper, frame mount and the johnny joint attaches to the upper axle mount. The DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE control arm is the the bottom control arm. The uppers are shorter than the lowers and is effectively causing all your issues. If I'm seeing it right, the NON ADJUSTABLE end is currently mounted as the lower arm and attached to your lower axle mount. This would be incorrect and you need to swap them and re-adjust.
Do you drink coffee? You should if you don't and start earlier next time because you clearly have not had enough this morning.