Not great things - those specific geometry issues are corrected in a mid arm or Jeep west correction. But also not terrible things, just depends on the kind of climbs expected of the Jeep....i'd like to see pics of the rear pinon angle and how much the rotation has moved the link connection locations.
this jeep thinks it has a 6" lift that pinions pointed at the front headrest's, that's gonna open the upper span and collapse the lower.
since the lower is fully compressed there is not adjustment to bring this axle forward.
if you do odd length links......whats a real short lower and a real long upper gonna do to pinion angle control through the travel with the connecting point of the lower being out front and the upper being behind the axle?
Yikes! 7.6* is too much difference. You should aim for 28.3* on both.
It is a Rubicon which makes things difficult.Yikes! 7.6* is too much difference. You should aim for 28.3* on both.
Those uppers don't look like they have much more adjustment, but see if you can get more. The lowers are about as short as they can go, but shorten them the rest of the way. You could chop them and get more.
What SYE are you running? Or is this a Rubicon? I can't remember. If you're SYE or FY is too long, you could alleviate some of this by getting a SS SYE and longer DC.
Take that little digital angle finder and set it over on the work bench to help hold it down. Now, stop thinking about that and do some actual work that will tell you where to start.Alright, here is where I think I am with this...There are a lot of things at play. I need to reduce the pinion angle for a few reasons. In order to do that I really need to potentially push the axle back a little. Since my uppers are maxed out I will likely need customs and/or double adjustables. This should allow me to open up the lowers and also extend the uppers. This should reduce my angles. Of course, this all depends on cycling the suspension to check that part.
Do you drink coffee? You should if you don't and start earlier next time because you clearly have not had enough this morning.Unless I'm seeing something different than anyone else, the shop put the Uppers on the lower and the Lower on the upper. I have these exact arms. The end of the control are that IS NOT ADJUSTABLE, attaches the upper, frame mount and the johnny joint attaches to the upper axle mount. The DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE control arm is the the bottom control arm. The uppers are shorter than the lowers and is effectively causing all your issues. If I'm seeing it right, the NON ADJUSTABLE end is currently mounted as the lower arm and attached to your lower axle mount. This would be incorrect and you need to swap them and re-adjust.