Currie arms aren't long enough to work with Savvy tummy tuck

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Haha, thanks Blaine. As a matter of fact, I'm currently drinking my morning cup!

The photo above is the one I'm referencing. That is your upper control arm and it need to be swapped to the top, as well as flipped so that the solid, non adjustable side is attached to the frame.

Happy wrenching!!
 
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Haha, thanks Blaine. As a matter of fact, I'm currently drinking my morning cup!

The photo above is the one I'm referencing. That is your upper control arm and it need to be swapped to the top, as well as flipped so that the solid, non adjustable side is attached to the frame.

Happy wrenching!!
Stop already. It is not possible to move the lower to the upper without cutting off the upper mounts and making them wider.
 
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Not that Currie makes bad stuff, but I really love that all the Savvy arms are double adjustable. Makes things a lot easier in my mind.
 
What he needs to do is find out what he needs to do and that won't be done any other way than by doing the work.

Agreed. None of these measurements and angles matter until the axle can get cycled and positioned where it needs to be.
 
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Not that Currie makes bad stuff, but I really love that all the Savvy arms are double adjustable. Makes things a lot easier in my mind.

I didn't know until this thread, but Currie does make double adjustable arms. But more importantly, we know this combination of springs, arms and skids will work. We've seen it before.
 
Did they switch to double adjustable arms top and bottom? This is the short-arm lift I had and it came with double adjustable uppers but not lowers:

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9801HS
I don't know. All I know is what I have here now and I know the kit is a relatively new purchase. I also haven't installed a set of Currie arms in a long time so they could be very old arms or very new arms, or just standard stuff that isn't talked about much.

I don't like setting up a rig with singles so if they were singles on the lowers, I would have had the owner get Savvy lowers.
 
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Here are some measurements I have. Again, I have a 4.5" Metalcloak short arm lift with a 2-1/2" tuck on an 05 Rubicon TJ

LCA: 16"
UCA: 14-3/4"
DS angle 23*
Pinion angle 21.5*
DS length (center of U-joint @ axle to rear U-joint @ double cardan): 13"
LCA center of bolt height @ ride height: 19.5"
Rear coil length @ ride height: 11-3/4"
Bottom of 241 output dampener @ ride height: 22-1/4"

That's pretty normal to see for lengths but the track bar bracket scrubs the tank skid, and hits the upper x-member and 33" tires hit the back of the fenders under articulation. I get to re adjust alot of rigs and do alot of belly skids. I think Currie actually has had this stuff figured out and made their arms accordingly. There just isn't room to go pushing the axle back without creating other problems, which is how guys end up running into trouble.
 
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I'm not the OP. I was just throwing my numbers to him for reference as It appears we have similar vehicles, lift height, etc.

My track bar bracket does not scrape the tank. On a rare occasion, the diff covers does but just grazes it and if and when both wheels are stuffed or dropping both wheels off a ledge. It's Happy medium for me that works so far, in short arms, until I pony up for mids.
 
I'm not the OP. I was just throwing my numbers to him for reference as It appears we have similar vehicles, lift height, etc.

My track bar bracket does not scrape the tank. On a rare occasion, the diff covers does but just grazes it and if and when both wheels are stuffed or dropping both wheels off a ledge. It's Happy medium for me that works so far, in short arms, until I pony up for mids.

I understood, I was just pointing out my experience with the lengths that were posted. I set up without springs and articulate the rigs on a rack. Some aftermarket diff covers will jam against the tank so hard they get stuck in the full stuff position. After having done so many, one of the basic rules I've formed, is if the upper arm is 14" the lower arm automatically has to get set to stock, 15.75 or shorter to center everything up and fit to operate on a 2" bumpstop 14" collapsed shock length or outboards.

If your shocks are 15" collapsed or longer, 15.7' in some cases with a 4" lift, you are automatically sitting on a 4" or more bumpstop depending on what shock shifters are bolted to the stock axle mounts. With that much loss in uptravel, they can't get into the tank. The 2" bumpstops that come with the kit. You might as well not even put on, they won't hit until a shock mount breaks off.

If we were setting up a 6" lift or 2" lift on 35" tires, and 2-3" bumpstop, the arms will end up the same length because of the radius the axle is forced to travel in and the space available for the tires to go in at full stuff.

If we want to stretch the arms out to the maximum length, it has to be done with the shocks bottomed out For clearance, if you can't get the desired pinion angle at ride height from there with the uppers maxed out, the lowers are the ones that get adjusted shorter to get it.
 
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@Kevin Q I think what we are learning here is that there might be a difference between the double adjustable and single adjustable arm lengths when extended. If you have jj's at both ends with threaded fittings you would be able to extend the arm another inch or 2 vs a single threaded jj and a fixed jj. We just need to first make sure your axles are lined up correctly with the bump stops and there is nothing else fishy going on. Are you having any issues on the front axle? I assume the front uppers are also single adjustable?
 
@Kevin Q I think what we are learning here is that there might be a difference between the double adjustable and single adjustable arm lengths when extended. If you have jj's at both ends with threaded fittings you would be able to extend the arm another inch or 2 vs a single threaded jj and a fixed jj. We just need to first make sure your axles are lined up correctly with the bump stops and there is nothing else fishy going on. Are you having any issues on the front axle? I assume the front uppers are also single adjustable?
I've not seen a single picture that shows any of that yet.
 
Guys, I'll get the pictures tomorrow. I coached a hockey game last night and then again at 6am this morning. I got home from the 2nd game of the day at 3 and then had lunch. I spent a little time working on clearance on the tub for the TC. Will get that finished tomorrow then get pictures before coaching another game in the evening.

I really appreciate all of the attention and help. Please stick with me.