Currie control arms creaking a lot, time to rebuild?

I have no preference of snapring pliers. I have these, and probably lost the optional tips - but they've done plenty fine.

🤔

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I bought some cheap 90 degree needle nose pliers and started trimming the ends with an air grinder and fine tuning with a file until they just fit the eyes of the snap ring. There is not any noticeable flex. The tips are D shaped leaving the grooves in place. 10 minutes and $10.

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It took me about 5 mins to get the joint to this stage yesterday. Didn’t use the Currie tool, just two sockets with a nut/bolt to compress the washers and remove the snap ring.

Assembly was just as easy. I set the rubber bushing over the ball after cleaning/greasing them both and tapped the bushing into place using the closed end of a 1” wrench, then pushed the assembly back into the joint and reinstalled the snap ring. While I’m certain the Currie tool could’ve made this a little easier, I was very surprised at how smooth things went with this setup. And @jjvw is correct about those snap ring pliers. You need the 90* pliers to get a better grip on the snap ring, otherwise you’ll struggle to keep the pliers in position while putting things back in place.
View attachment 360784

I have 16 JJs (seven 2" and nine 2.5"). With that many joints, I figure the time savings would be worth the cost of the RJ tools - and it probably is. But then I see posts like this and I start questioning my life choices again.
 
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I have 18 JJs (nine 2" and nine 2.5"). With that many joints, I figure the time savings would be worth the cost of the RJ tools - and it probably is. But then I see posts like this and I start questioning my life choices again.

I've used both sockets and the official press. Both work. The press is a little nicer because it fits really well.

It is similar to spending the money on the 90 deg Knipex pliers. It costs more, but is nicer to use than most other options. Good tools make the job easier and are worth the cost over time.
 
Is it possible to adjust caster at home with an angle finder?

The angle finder can provide a rough estimate of the caster (set it on top of the ball joint), but it can't adjust the caster. You'll need adjustable control arms to do that.
 
The races inside a Johnny Joint are designed with a very (!) tight fit and do not readily accept a significant amount of grease through the zerk fitting. When they do, which has been never in my 12 year experience with mine, it's time for a rebuild. Creaking is perfectly normal, it's not a sign of being too dry inside. Mine creaked when they were still new.

Have you opened your joints up since they first went on to see what condition they are in?
 
I have 18 JJs (nine 2" and nine 2.5"). With that many joints, I figure the time savings would be worth the cost of the RJ tools - and it probably is. But then I see posts like this and I start questioning my life choices again.

This is the same problem I went back and forth over in my head which is what lead me to trying it the way I did. I figured I’d give it a shot and at least know what to expect before spending $200+ on single purpose tools. The amount of “troubles” I encountered are well worth the money savings in my opinion.

Let’s also remember I’ve only done one control arm so far 🤣 I haven’t even started on the lowers yet. I may end up switching methods and losing my cool before it’s all over with.
 
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Nope. When they start behaving differently from when they were still new I will.

Don't you think it is prudent to open them up and check once every 2-3 years (or atleast once after 12 long years!) as part of regular maintenance irrespective of where you live? I well understand you lived in dry SoCal climate before Florida, and did not go wheeling in mud/clay terrain, but aren't you the least bit curious as to whether yours might need a rebuild after these many years?

It doesn't make sense to me yours creaked when they were new like you mentioned earlier in this thread. That does NOT seem to be the norm.
 
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It took me about 5 mins to get the joint to this stage yesterday. Didn’t use the Currie tool, just two sockets with a nut/bolt to compress the washers and remove the snap ring.

Assembly was just as easy. I set the rubber bushing over the ball after cleaning/greasing them both and tapped the bushing into place using the closed end of a 1” wrench, then pushed the assembly back into the joint and reinstalled the snap ring. While I’m certain the Currie tool could’ve made this a little easier, I was very surprised at how smooth things went with this setup. And @jjvw is correct about those snap ring pliers. You need the 90* pliers to get a better grip on the snap ring, otherwise you’ll struggle to keep the pliers in position while putting things back in place.
View attachment 360784

I see you have the one piece races instead of the two piece.