Currie Control Arms

[ac_]

I am going to install my new Currie control arms this week hopefully. I think it is going to be a slow go because I have to work and it is well into the 100's by now, but I have a few questions for adjustable control arm veterans.

First Is there a rule of thumb on what side the adjuster goes on the lower control arms. In the videos I see them installed on the frame side and others on the axle side. I am betting it really doesn't matter, but what do you suggest and why?

Also Is it common knowledge to just use the stock bolts on the axle side of the front uppers, because it is next to impossible to drill out. Or to I try and drill and see how far I can get to use the currie bolts?

Lastly when installing the rear uppers I have double adjustable Do I start out with them the same size as stock and install them and adjust them pretty much equally to push the top of the axle back or do I pull both the top ones and set one arm and make the other one the same size? (I know this is a matter of debate, but my factory ones are not adjustable and are virtually the same size so I think that is a good starting point)

These maybe be a lot of questions and probably should be multiple threads but I will see how this goes. I imagine once I crawl under it will also make more sense, but I just got these questions from reading the inter-webs.

I am pretty excited to get started on this project.
Thanks in advance!

 

[bobthetj03]

I generally try to keep the jamb nut at the frame end so as to keep it out of harms way from rocks and such. Best luck I've had at installing the arms is one at a time with the jeep on its weight, in gear, with park brake on. Adjust to the factory length and they should go on fairly easy.

 

[ac_]

I generally try to keep the jamb nut at the frame end so as to keep it out of harms way from rocks and such. Best luck I've had at installing the arms is one at a time with the jeep on its weight, in gear, with park brake on. Adjust to the factory length and they should go on fairly easy.

That was actually my plan, although I didn't think about keeping the jamb nut out of harms way. That is good advice, and precisely why I asked. Thanks for that!

 

[ac_]

I crawled under and took some measurements, but haven't really started yet. I found out the rear axle is about a quarter of an inch closer to the front end, and my rear pinion angle is about 4-5 degrees low in the rear. This is going to be a rough week at work, so not sure how much I can get done, but I am hoping to get it started tomorrow night!

 

[bobthetj03]

I crawled under and took some measurements, but haven't really started yet. I found out the rear axle is about a quarter of an inch closer to the front end, and my rear pinion angle is about 4-5 degrees low in the rear. This is going to be a rough week at work, so not sure how much I can get done, but I am hoping to get it started tomorrow night!

Do you have a 4' carpenters level and a carpenters square? 4-5* low is about where the pinion lives on stock arms.

 

[ac_]

Do you have a 4' carpenters level and a carpenters square? 4-5* low is about where the pinion lives on stock arms.

I was using an actual angle gauge exactly like the one you lost earlier.

Now there is a lot of debate about where to put it. Sounds like I wasted a lot of money on control arms if that is the case(Although they are BEEFY and very cool looking.) Since it is bolted on the lower and upper parts of the axle. I don't think I really need to adjust for torque. It is not like my I6 is going to beat up the springs in my opinion. I was planning on a 0-1degree offset (low). I think I have seen pictures of yours with a 0 percent, but I know since then you have changed.

Also my axle is not square in the rear. It is off a good quarter of an inch. Honestly I can't tell by driving. Seems fine. I imagine a few degrees on the pinion and a quarter inch on the axle wouldn't be enough to even notice in the front seat.

My plan is to start in the rear and set the lowers to the factory settings, and install them one at a time. Then remove both uppers and use a jack to slightly raise the pinion to where I want, then adjust the upper control arm to the shortest side, and make the other one exactly the same then install them both and recheck the pinion angle. If it is good, I will adjust either upper as necessary to square up the axle. Since it is a quarter of an inch, I feel I can do that with just one or the other upper. (Thoughts) Although even if when I get done, and I am a quarter of an inch out, I imagine it will barely wear my tires slightly faster, and I won't notice it from the driver seat.

 

[bobthetj03]

Just make sure the rear axle is square to the frame. take a 4' level, or straight edge, put one end on the rear axle tube just on the inside edge of the lower control arm bracket where it's welded to the axle tube. take the carpenters triangle, put it on top of the straight edge, and measure up to the center TC skid mounting bolt, mark, and repeat to the other side. that should tell you if your axle is centered to the frame. Repeat for the front axle if you want to know that as well. 1/8" off is pretty common, 1/4" off doesn't sound horrible either +,- margin for error measuring.

When you get to the rear uppers, you'll need to fiddle with the rear brake hose a little to detach it from the stock upper arms. I took some channel locks and pried the crimp open and simply removed the brake hose from the crimp. I used HD zipties to reattach it and sleeved the brake hose with rubber fuel hose as a protector.
Just remove the stock rear upper. adjust the new arm so it bolts up easily, the repeat for the other side. Once you have both adjustable uppers bolted up open the jamb nuts all the way to the end and adjust the arms so that you can easily turn them both by hand. If one is easy to turn and the other is not, then they are binding the axle. This will be a good time to adjust your pinion angle. I use one of the flats on the rear diff center section and subtract from 90*, and stick the angle finder on the bottom of the drive shaft tube for the other angle. 1*-2* lower is a good starting point.

 

[ac_]

Just make sure the rear axle is square to the frame. take a 4' level, or straight edge, put one end on the rear axle tube just on the inside edge of the lower control arm bracket where it's welded to the axle tube. take the carpenters triangle, put it on top of the straight edge, and measure up to the center TC skid mounting bolt, mark, and repeat to the other side. that should tell you if your axle is centered to the frame. Repeat for the front axle if you want to know that as well. 1/8" off is pretty common, 1/4" off doesn't sound horrible either +,- margin for error measuring.

When you get to the rear uppers, you'll need to fiddle with the rear brake hose a little to detach it from the stock upper arms. I took some channel locks and pried the crimp open and simply removed the brake hose from the crimp. I used HD zipties to reattach it and sleeved the brake hose with rubber fuel hose as a protector.
Just remove the stock rear upper. adjust the new arm so it bolts up easily, the repeat for the other side. Once you have both adjustable uppers bolted up open the jamb nuts all the way to the end and adjust the arms so that you can easily turn them both by hand. If one is easy to turn and the other is not, then they are binding the axle. This will be a good time to adjust your pinion angle. I use one of the flats on the rear diff center section and subtract from 90*, and stick the angle finder on the bottom of the drive shaft tube for the other angle. 1*-2* lower is a good starting point.

Sounds good.

I am going to hopefully crawl under tonight and start. Not sure how far I will get as my day starts early; early tomorrow, and it is super hot already, but since the lowers are just labor, and not much thought, I will be happy to at the very least get the rear lowers on for today.

I have to set small goals lol

 

[bobthetj03]

baby steps brah! I have literally adjusted, and re-adjusted my pinion angle 20 times chasing my vibes. I have a spread sheet of pinion angle adjustments going from +2* higher to -6* lower in increments in between. I'm sitting -2* low right now and am leaving it.

 

[ac_]

So in all of those changes are they always just the uppers or are you pushing/pulling the lowers also?

 

[bobthetj03]

Lowers are stock, so just uppers for now. I moved on to the front drive shaft. Got it at 1.6* higher in the front. Leaving it there for now cause the soft top is on and I can't hear shit, lol! still feel it at 65mph though, but maybe not as bad. Will re-evaluate when the hard top goes back on.

 

[ac_]

Lowers are stock, so just uppers for now. I moved on to the front drive shaft. Got it at 1.6* higher in the front. Leaving it there for now cause the soft top is on and I can't hear shit, lol! still feel it at 65mph though, but maybe not as bad. Will re-evaluate when the hard top goes back on.

You may be chasing a ghost. Because I am 5 degrees low and probably 3 est. in the front and mine is smooth as silk or well as a TJ clear up as fast as it will go. I don't imagine your pinion angles you would even feel a vibration from being that close. I really wish we didn't live so far away, because it would be fun to change parts and test. Although we couldn't change wheels and tires now with your awesome big brakes, but everything else we could practically.

I can't imagine what is causing yours, but I would almost start taking off mirrors, and checking the angle of the windshield or paint it a different color haha.

By the way did you ever take your rear diff down to get checked out? What if anything came from that?

 

[bobthetj03]

I was going to take it to Sacramento to a shop, but then the hard top came off, and its hard to hear it with all that added noise, so I'll deal with it come winter. I guess it can't be that bad if it's hard to hear with the top off, right? I've read posts where guys had the pinion depth set wrong and caused vibes above 55mph, so maybe that? Won't know for sure until I have a pro get a look at it. Until then, I'm just going to enjoy summer wheeling until something breaks.

 

[ac_]

I was going to take it to Sacramento to a shop, but then the hard top came off, and its hard to hear it with all that added noise, so I'll deal with it come winter. I guess it can't be that bad if it's hard to hear with the top off, right? I've read posts where guys had the pinion depth set wrong and caused vibes above 55mph, so maybe that? Won't know for sure until I have a pro get a look at it. Until then, I'm just going to enjoy summer wheeling until something breaks.

Well weirdly here is what mine did if this helps you at all.
With my lift with the light springs I had no issues, but I swapped them back out with the heavies because the lights really sucked with the towing. Then with the heavies it raised the rear of the Jeep so high I compensated with 1 3/4 spacers in the front. After that it vibrated but slightly from a stop clear through second gear. Once in third it smoothed out and drove fine for up to as fast as it would go. My driveline vibes were all low end. Then without changing anything on the suspension, I did a SYE and it is now smooth in all gears all the way up to as fast as it will go. I probably don't even have to put my control arms on but since I bought them and I don't think they will take them back without me taking a hit, I will run them plus it will allow me to scale later if I decide to go bigger later.

But my point is maybe we should run a new thread and see where peoples vibrations were after they lifted their jeep. In my mind I don't think it is really a pinion angle issue for you because you have kicked that dead horse many times. Plus even with my SYE I am still 5 degrees out with no vibes. I know all TJ's are different, but really I am 5 degrees out, and not even centered in the rear and it drives like a dream.

Sucks that you haven't figured it out yet. I can't wait for winter the suspense is killing me.

 

[bobthetj03]

it's like waiting for the next season of Walking Dead, but it's 3 months away.

 

[ac_]

it's like waiting for the next season of Walking Dead, but it's 3 months away.

I found out something interesting last night. I think @Chris may be interested this also. BTW I did get my goal of getting my lower rear CA's in last night. The interesting part is the CA's come ready to go with a 4 inch lift, but at least the lower rears came the exact same side as stock, so they only adjust for the 4 inch lift in the rear uppers. (Well so far, I haven't touched the front yet) I found that interesting. Here is a shot of the two arms compared and a shot of them installed.

 

[bobthetj03]

Well done sir.

 

[ac_]

Thanks! I thought it was interesting that Currie adjusts for a 4 inch lift on the uppers alone(rear). Nice to know that so you could just put the lowers on with no measurement. Makes the job that much easier. The goal today is the rear uppers. I know there is some muffler wrestling and drilling involved, so that should eat up some of my time. Along with the heat, but I have a solid plan, so the outlook looks good. will post more pics and post more progress.

"I will post more pics!" You taught me well, Sensei!

 

[Chris]

I found out something interesting last night. I think @Chris may be interested this also. BTW I did get my goal of getting my lower rear CA's in last night. The interesting part is the CA's come ready to go with a 4 inch lift, but at least the lower rears came the exact same side as stock, so they only adjust for the 4 inch lift in the rear uppers. (Well so far, I haven't touched the front yet) I found that interesting. Here is a shot of the two arms compared and a shot of them installed.

View attachment 43403 View attachment 43404

Yes, even with a 4" lift, my lowers are the same length as stock. I believe they do this because if you extend the lowers too far you can mess a lot of things up. Sure, you gain some extra wheelbase, but then your bump stops might be out of alignment, your rear axle track bar might contact your fuel tank, etc. I'm not 100% sure this is the reason, but that's what it seems.

 

[ac_]

Yes, even with a 4" lift, my lowers are the same length as stock. I believe they do this because if you extend the lowers too far you can mess a lot of things up. Sure, you gain some extra wheelbase, but then your bump stops might be out of alignment, your rear axle track bar might contact your fuel tank, etc. I'm not 100% sure this is the reason, but that's what it seems.

My thoughts weren't to extend the lowers, I thought they would retract them as to push the upper and retract the lowers in which would spin the axle and leave it in the same place, or that is what I thought.