Currie Control Arms
- Thread starter ac_
- Start date
Yes, you already are lengthening the rear uppers to get your pinion angle where it needs to be. Lengthen the lowers and it pretty much guaranteed your TB will make contact with the gas tank skid.
Yep. If I extend my rear lowers anymore the rear track bar will most certainly contact my gas tank skid.
OP
OP
OP
Ok update from the sauna'
I got the rears completely done. I had to drill the uppers mounts, but not the lower. What a PITA around the muffler huh? I may have invented a pretty easy way to drill it though. I got a 7/16 titanium drill bit with a hex head on it. That way I could drill with a quarter drive set. The drilling was the worst part of it on the muffler side, but my way made it pretty easy.
Here is what I did. I used a quarter drive ratchet with extension and socket and went through the hole in the frame. You can see it in the next two pictures.
And here is the drill I used:
It actually cut through nicely with the quarter drive ratchet. Don't get me wrong I used a drill every other place, but I couldn't fit the drill in this particular place.
After buttoning up the rear completely. I started on the fronts. I have installed the pass front upper. That was such a pain also drilling out the axle mount. Holy cow that tuckered me out and my drill got so hot, but finally made it though, Then after ratchet strapping it to align it enough to get the bolts on I ran out of steam! Oh and a little pissed off because I was extra careful not to drop the washer in the frame, but figured out a way to do it anyway! argh. I couldn't fish it out with a magnet, so I probably introduced a factory rattle. Probably have to go to Crutchfield to fix that one.
Anyway 5 down 3 more to go. I am feeling my age; i'll tell you what!
More to come!
OP
OK Final update! I got all of the Currie control Arms in and buttoned up. I stayed up extra late just to finish. I will say it was a workout! I installed the BMB washers in the front lower. I had to futz with those for a while. They didn't fit at first so I had to do some filing and filing. The good thing is since I had to file I got them to fit pretty snug, then it took me a while to figure out that those mounts aren't straight on so I was having a tough time getting the bolts in. Once I figured that out it was cake.
Here is the final specs
Rear pinion angle 14 rear drive line angle 15, I tried to get it dead on, but by the time I got it bolted down it was a degree low so that is probably where it should be anyway. Not enough to screw around with it anymore. Also straightened the axle so it is in pretty straight now.
Front pinion and drive line angle 6. Was shooting for 7, but again not enough to screw around with. Oh and the front is square too.
lthe only thing left to is test drive it. If all is good then the zj steering and alignment are next.
Last thoughts.
Give yourself plenty of time to do these and take the time to do them right. These are pretty awesome control arms. Really easy to work with. There is some slight drilling to do but it is super easy because you are just drilling basically a size bigger hole that already exists. Just trying to get around the obstacles is the hardest part.
Also there is some debate that drilling out the front axle mounts are difficult and breaks bits, but mine drilled out like butteh. I am not sure if I have something different than others, but here is how I did it. I have a two speed Makita cordless drill and I put it on the slowest setting and took as much time as it needed to eat away at it. I went through tree batteries to do it. I used a Titanium 7/16 drill bit and it pushed right on through to the other side.
Also now everything I mean everything has a grease fitting. As I was greasing up all of the fittings at least half were loose, so remember to tighten them up when you finish.
it wasn't that bad, but I flat backed it after work over 3 nights and rolling over tools and prying and lifting it was a work out at least for me, I am not going to lie. I actually got a new stereo for my RAM and that will actually probably be my next upgrade haha with it running and the AC on.
Thanks for following my thread. Happy to answer any questions.
Here is the final specs
Rear pinion angle 14 rear drive line angle 15, I tried to get it dead on, but by the time I got it bolted down it was a degree low so that is probably where it should be anyway. Not enough to screw around with it anymore. Also straightened the axle so it is in pretty straight now.
Front pinion and drive line angle 6. Was shooting for 7, but again not enough to screw around with. Oh and the front is square too.
lthe only thing left to is test drive it. If all is good then the zj steering and alignment are next.
Last thoughts.
Give yourself plenty of time to do these and take the time to do them right. These are pretty awesome control arms. Really easy to work with. There is some slight drilling to do but it is super easy because you are just drilling basically a size bigger hole that already exists. Just trying to get around the obstacles is the hardest part.
Also there is some debate that drilling out the front axle mounts are difficult and breaks bits, but mine drilled out like butteh. I am not sure if I have something different than others, but here is how I did it. I have a two speed Makita cordless drill and I put it on the slowest setting and took as much time as it needed to eat away at it. I went through tree batteries to do it. I used a Titanium 7/16 drill bit and it pushed right on through to the other side.
Also now everything I mean everything has a grease fitting. As I was greasing up all of the fittings at least half were loose, so remember to tighten them up when you finish.
it wasn't that bad, but I flat backed it after work over 3 nights and rolling over tools and prying and lifting it was a work out at least for me, I am not going to lie. I actually got a new stereo for my RAM and that will actually probably be my next upgrade haha with it running and the AC on.
Thanks for following my thread. Happy to answer any questions.
OP
Ok drive to work follow up
Today I drove my TJ with the new JJ's. I really like them so far. I don't have the rear end wiggle I used to have. I have no vibrations at all, but I can feel the road a lot more. I think now it drives more like a truck than a car. It is a little stiffer feeling, but that could be because they are brand new and greased up.
I replaced my factory ones about 6 months ago so they were brand new, so I a not comparing apples to oranges. I can totally feel the difference. i like them both for different reasons. Based on driving it on the road, because i haven't taken it off road yet. I think the stock ca's will be more comfortable on washboard roads. Seriously on the stock rubber the TJ seemed a little wishy washy. Where as the JJ's seem really precise and dialed in. You can really feel the road, and turning feels more precise. I feel like this is what a Jeep should feel like, but if you don't intend on taking if off road, and only driving on the street, in my opinion, you might be disappointed. The stock rubber does give it a more car feeling.
Today I drove my TJ with the new JJ's. I really like them so far. I don't have the rear end wiggle I used to have. I have no vibrations at all, but I can feel the road a lot more. I think now it drives more like a truck than a car. It is a little stiffer feeling, but that could be because they are brand new and greased up.
I replaced my factory ones about 6 months ago so they were brand new, so I a not comparing apples to oranges. I can totally feel the difference. i like them both for different reasons. Based on driving it on the road, because i haven't taken it off road yet. I think the stock ca's will be more comfortable on washboard roads. Seriously on the stock rubber the TJ seemed a little wishy washy. Where as the JJ's seem really precise and dialed in. You can really feel the road, and turning feels more precise. I feel like this is what a Jeep should feel like, but if you don't intend on taking if off road, and only driving on the street, in my opinion, you might be disappointed. The stock rubber does give it a more car feeling.
OP
Blaine 06LJR
New Member
I just did a full Currie double adjustable lift install alone in my garage on, don't worry too much.
*Drilling out the Upper CA mounts was much easier and quicker than I expected. Even on the axle side sleeves. (I had springs removed)
*I installed the jam nut end of the LCA's toward the frame just to keep them out of harms way.
*The instruction told me the exact length to set all 8 CAs at during install. These measurements are for a rear Cardan drive with a SYE or Rubicon. The instructions were very close. Without deviating from the instructions I ended up 2.5 degree high on the rear pinion before my tummy tuck and 2.5 degrees low after tummy Tuck.