Currie Currectlync Sway Bar Clearance

nmcneill15

nmcneill15

New Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
7
Location
British Columbia, CA
I have a question after installing these items on my 2003 Rubicon:
  • Currie 4" lift kit
  • Currie Antirock front sway bar
  • Currie CurrectLync steering

Made these adjustments to the CurrectLync:
  • Adjusted to toe-in to about 1/8" to 1/4"
  • Centered the steering wheel by adjusting the drag link.
My question is about the clearance of the Tie Rod / Drag Link knuckle underneath the sway bar bracket on the axle. At ride height, the knuckle slides neatly underneath this bracket with about 1/4" to 1/2" of clearance at the far right steering lock.

My concern is whether I should be concerned about clearance when the axle is drooped (whether one side or both). It seems like if just the right side of the axle is at full droop, then it may be ok since the sway bar bracket would be angled up with the left side of the axle, but if both sides are at full droop, then the angle of the drag link would cause the knuckle to come in contact with the sway bar bracket. This is particularly true since the Anti-Rock linkage is on the inside of the sway bar bracket.

I've read the thread on this forum about the same issue (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/currie-currectlync-install-issue.13091/), but his issue was at ride height and proved to be related to 2" front spacers which had been installed by the PO, thus increasing the height of his lift from 4" to 6".

I admit I have a hard time imagining scenarios in which both sides of the axle are at full droop and you're trying to execute a hard right turn...but still.

A few other notes:
  • My Front LCAs are the same as factory (same as they came from Currie)
  • My Front UCAs are about 1/4" to 1/2" longer than they came from Currie (which look to be the same length as factory). So at the most, the axle might be angled a little further forward than stock. This was match the pinion angle to the front drive shaft.
Please let me know what you think. I've done a lot of research for this build, but I'm new to this, so use small words and speak slowly:)

Thanks in advance.
 
I have roughly your same setup but with adjustable arms and haven't had any issues. The best way to find out would be to cycle the suspension.
 
Was reading post on this issue and was curious if you ever solved the issue with this?

I am having the same issue if I leave the stock sway bar in and connected it hits slightly at full droop. If I was to disconnect the stock sway bar or use the anti rock sway bar it ends up allowing the droop to increase which creates a direct contact hit for whatever attachment method is connected to the stock sway bar bracket.

7F21030D-2B33-419A-BA4F-A73541D38AF5.jpeg


14D68E1A-7F30-48DD-8195-FDA67A1C2519.jpeg


4125AF61-CB3B-4B5D-A43F-7505E6F819C3.jpeg
 
What does your pinion look like? Have you cycled your suspension without coils? My guess would be incorrect control arm length (axle to far forward based on your photo)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gollywomper
There was a thread on this a couple months back. Several of us have this same contact, with correct axle alignment. In the end I think we all just decided that if we end up at full drop with the wheels turned that far to the right, we're going to have bigger problems.
 
Pinion was right on However, as of this post we have just almost finished a tummy tuck and this issue was a slight problem before hand and was able to skate by. Now after the tuck I know I am going to have to readjust the pinion but that will only make the contact worse since I would need to rotate the pinion up some.
The overall wheel base is at 93 -3/4”+ rear was set up center of wheel well and front was set the same and measurements taken.
Last season it was cycled w/o coils and it was close to center as it can be so coils would not hit upper bump stops and they would clear during articulation.
Same thing this year for the bump stop clearances since we went back to adjustable bump stops on the bottom of the coils.
If I was to pull the front diff back I would still have to rotate the pinion up, which would still cause a conflict. To pull the diff back would be tough because I would have to rotate the pinion up a little further than if to was further away from transfer case.

@freedom I hear you on the bigger problems. I am only a couple of years into this and have had a couple of hits on the steering.
It is just puzzling for me on how it looks like a problem for some of us and not others. Locally I had some answers of it’s not set up right, then when I check out a couple of the rigs I see things set up that are not correct as well as sway bar axle bracket modifications.
I’ll be the first to say I jumped into this Jeep build couple of years ago knowing nothing about Jeep but after reading and learning all at a cost like most. I struggle to accept that it is what it is or you didn’t set it up right (which just may be the case lol ) but if I did where did I screw up. Thanks for the reply’s and be safe out there
 
  • Like
Reactions: freedom_in_4low
You can put a more aggressive bend in the drag link by using a press. Do you know what your caster is? If your front bumpstops are lined up at full compression, you can move the axle forward/backward a bit as long as they remain touching at full bump. Moving the axle that much might get you the clearance you need.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
looks forward. or maybe rolled a bit? i can see a fair bit of threads on that upper, doesn't mean it's wrong, but they could be tad long.

don't remember much of the stock front axle, but i don't recall my front pinion angle being so straight into the TC after lifting.
 
Caster was left 5.03 right was 5.09
The top ca is out to roll the pinion up and cover the caster the lower ca was set to start at the length of the stock ca length then not getting into every little detail adjustments made to get where I needed.

Bending is not a path I would consider and would think that the manufacturer has spent a lot time in engineering a product to have it altered. Instructions do not at suggest to bend it should there be a conflict only slightly grinding if not being installed on a recommended lifted vehicle so All the more to not bend..

537A9450-EADA-4321-AB75-716541BFD2D1.jpeg


5500DDDF-5AC1-4063-ABA8-0D2491D7C6FA.jpeg


72BBC595-46DC-450E-BAE4-0D01A71B306D.jpeg
 
Maybe my eyes playing tricks, but the springs look to be leaning to passenger indicating your track bar is set too short. Have you checked that your axle is centered? If it needs to go passenger that'll buy you more steering input before contact.

Your comment about LCAs starting at stock length might be something. How do your bump stops line up at full stuff? Sometimes the LCAs end up shortened a bit to pull the axle back to account for being pushed forward by the UCAs having been lengthened for caster...unless you have a lot of added bump stop.

What I and Blaine are alluding to is the real life situation that results in the axle being at full droop AND a hard right turn doesn't really happen. Like...going up a steep obstacle with the front axle unloaded and then turning sideways on a hill...or jumping your rig landing with the wheels turned sharp to the right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Tony G said:
Caster was left 5.03 right was 5.09
The top ca is out to roll the pinion up and cover the caster the lower ca was set to start at the length of the stock ca length then not getting into every little detail adjustments made to get where I needed.

Bending is not a path I would consider and would think that the manufacturer has spent a lot time in engineering a product to have it altered. Instructions do not at suggest to bend it should there be a conflict only slightly grinding if not being installed on a recommended lifted vehicle so All the more to not bend..

View attachment 317506

View attachment 317507

View attachment 317508
Click to expand...
You're not listening.
 
First Thank you for the reply and I am listening the axle is centered under the vehicle and even thought of shifting axle to passenger side slightly to gain a little more. The lca’s started at stock length but adjustments were made that shortened them just at you mentioned. At original setup full stuff I was just off center to the rear 3/8” based on the recommendation I will recheck it I know I could not get center with the bump stop set up that was originally in there due to interference with the coil. Now that I have changed them I will revisit that.
I understand what you both are saying just over thinking it as well as not thinking of the real scenario.
 
Tony G said:
One photo is with steering in center/ straight other is right turn both at full droop with stock sway bar
Click to expand...
That photo should not exist because it has zero relevance to anything except what rigs look like with the suspension hanging at full droop on a lift. Zero relevance to real world use.
 
  • Like
Reactions: psrivats
mrblaine said:
That photo should not exist because it has zero relevance to anything except what rigs look like with the suspension hanging at full droop on a lift. Zero relevance to real world use.
Click to expand...
Real world use or PRACTICAL real world use :p


(listen to Blaine... I'm just being an idiot.)
20200925_121813.jpg
 
  • Haha
Reactions: COYOTE83 and DrDmoney
mrblaine said:
And? How do you plan on recreating that scenario when you are driving it?
Click to expand...
Step 1 - Hold my beer.
Step 2 - Find a berm to jump with a hard right turn in the “LZ”.
Step 3 - Buckle seatbelt.
Step 4 - Get a good run at the berm.
Step 5 - Crank the wheel hard right when you feel T6 mesh with T12.
Step 6 - Accept outcome while finishing beer waiting for ambulance.

Edit: Amblance for those who can’t spell…you no who yur.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: COYOTE83
Top Bottom
Back