Currie Short Arm vs. Savvy Mid-Arm

jordans05tj

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I'm going to start a build sometime in the next year or so and I'm looking at my options for suspensions. I've currently got a TJ, but I think I'd rather build an LJ. The end goal is a Jeep I can take across the country and do some pretty tough trails, but I'd also like to be able to drive it to work if need be or go for a cruise when the weather's nice. From what I can tell, Currie is the best bolt on lift you can buy. I don't necessarily have to have a bolt on lift and I understand the hang-ups of long arms, so I feel like the Savvy midarm should be mentioned for an extra $1000. I was hoping some of the people on here that know more than I do would discuss/go over options, and this conversation may have already been started elsewhere. If that is the case please point me in that direction. Long story short, is the mid arm worth spending an extra $1000 over the Currie lift? I'd like to end up on 37's with some stronger, locked axles. I'm liking the Carbon offroad Dana 44/Dana 60 combo, they use Currie housings with chromoly shafts and ARB or Eaton lockers. As you can imagine that's about $9,000 worth of axle so I'm not opposed to spending extra for good quality parts. I'm shooting for very few breakages and a very reliable rig that goes where I point it. Thanks in advance.
 
The Savvy mid-arm is great. I have it on both of my Jeeps and have talked about it before... I won't go into detail here unless you have specific questions.

My biggest advice is that you figure out what you realistically want to do with your Jeep and a realistic budget. I built my red LJ like a lego project as a could afford parts and learning. I kept adding and changing from 29s to 31s to 33s to 35s and it turned into a pig that honestly had little focus of what I wanted. Once I sat down and defined an end goal I was able to come up with a game plan and decided on building my LJ really well on 37s no holding back but also nothing extra. I'm extremely happy with how it's turning out.
 
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I'd like to end up on 37's with some stronger, locked axles.
Realize that your desire to have 37's means more modifications than just stronger axles and a good suspension, it also means when you have the SWB TJ that it's time to extend the wheelbase which is no easy task. That's one of my two reasons I'm not running 37's, the other that I'm still running Dana 44 axles.
 
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Realize that your desire to have 37's means more modifications than just stronger axles and a good suspension, it also means when you have the SWB TJ that it's time to extend the wheelbase which is no easy task. That's one of my two reasons I'm not running 37's, the other that I'm still running Dana 44 axles.
That's my main thought as to why the LJ would be better for my uses, wheelbase and obviously the extra space associated to load up camping gear, etc. I'd like to not get into chopping up a tub to stretch a wheelbase on a TJ. I'd need some high clearance fenders, better driveshafts, and even on an LJ an SYE wouldn't be a bad idea from my understanding. I'm sure the little things would nickel and dime you to death on a build like this, but what else am I forgetting? Any threads where this has been discussed already?
 
That's my main thought as to why the LJ would be better for my uses, wheelbase and obviously the extra space associated to load up camping gear, etc. I'd like to not get into chopping up a tub to stretch a wheelbase on a TJ. I'd need some high clearance fenders, better driveshafts, and even on an LJ an SYE wouldn't be a bad idea from my understanding. I'm sure the little things would nickel and dime you to death on a build like this, but what else am I forgetting? Any threads where this has been discussed already?

Literally everything you need to know: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-octane-a-streetable-adventure-lj-story.9956/
 
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The Savvy mid-arm is great. I have it on both of my Jeeps and have talked about it before... I won't go into detail here unless you have specific questions.

My biggest advice is that you figure out what you realistically want to do with your Jeep and a realistic budget. I built my red LJ like a lego project as a could afford parts and learning. I kept adding and changing from 29s to 31s to 33s to 35s and it turned into a pig that honestly had little focus of what I wanted. Once I sat down and defined an end goal I was able to come up with a game plan and decided on building my LJ really well on 37s no holding back but also nothing extra. I'm extremely happy with how it's turning out.
I'm definitely going to start out with a plan of what to do and where to go, I'm an engineer that's the only way I ever do anything unfortunately lol. I want something that can go on the street fine with maybe a few compromises to get better offroad ability. I'd like to go out to Utah and wheel hard with a group, do some of the EJS type events, Colorado makes my list, etc. I just want something that's capable enough to do these types of trails. I'll check out that other thread, it seems like any questions I can think of have been answered here before. Thank you!
 
I'd like to go out to Utah and wheel hard with a group, do some of the EJS type events, Colorado makes my list, etc. I just want something that's capable enough to do these types of trails.

I think you'd be super happy with a well built TJ on 35s and 4" lift. It'd do everything you listed very well. There will be significantly less work and maintenance compared to 37s (a few months to build working on it evenings and weekends vs over a year).

Check out both of these threads along with the first thread I sent you:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ry-of-indecision-and-frivolous-spending.8537/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/

(this build is for 33s but there is a lot of good theory discussed especially in the last 6 months)
 
I think you'd be super happy with a well built TJ on 35s and 4" lift. It'd do everything you listed very well. There will be significantly less work and maintenance compared to 37s (a few months to build working on it evenings and weekends vs over a year).

Check out both of these threads along with the first thread I sent you:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ry-of-indecision-and-frivolous-spending.8537/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/

(this build is for 33s but there is a lot of good theory discussed especially in the last 6 months)
I was looking through the red Rubicon earlier, that's a helpful thread along with the others you've linked. I'm gonna need to find time to look through those others at 80 and 180 pages. There's a lot of information there and I'm probably still a year away from really building stuff.

On those Carbon offroad axles I was looking into, it's only like an extra $100 to jump up to the Dana 60 rear over a Dana 44. That $100 would probably be gone and then some just in the tires alone, but what difference would there be on 37's vs 35's? What other modifications would we be looking at as opposed to just sticking with 35's? Obviously you'd need to make room for that big Dana 60 housing with a better gas tank skid/maybe some kind of Genright tank. I like the look of the Metalcloak fenders and already plan on having them and they'd fit 37's. Would there be clearance issues elsewhere? 37's would probably be into hydro assist territory and I'd probably run the currectlync setup, I'd want a tummy tuck either way so there's a body lift and driveshaft issues to be lined out. I felt like I had a pretty good idea of what would be required for an LJ on 37's versus a TJ on 35's but I'm still relatively new to all this.
 
I was looking through the red Rubicon earlier, that's a helpful thread along with the others you've linked. I'm gonna need to find time to look through those others at 80 and 180 pages. There's a lot of information there and I'm probably still a year away from really building stuff.

On those Carbon offroad axles I was looking into, it's only like an extra $100 to jump up to the Dana 60 rear over a Dana 44. That $100 would probably be gone and then some just in the tires alone, but what difference would there be on 37's vs 35's? What other modifications would we be looking at as opposed to just sticking with 35's? Obviously you'd need to make room for that big Dana 60 housing with a better gas tank skid/maybe some kind of Genright tank. I like the look of the Metalcloak fenders and already plan on having them and they'd fit 37's. Would there be clearance issues elsewhere? 37's would probably be into hydro assist territory and I'd probably run the currectlync setup, I'd want a tummy tuck either way so there's a body lift and driveshaft issues to be lined out. I felt like I had a pretty good idea of what would be required for an LJ on 37's versus a TJ on 35's but I'm still relatively new to all this.

For 37s you'll need a wider axle, at least a Dana 60 front and rear, you'll need to make your own track bar and steering since stock style won't fit, if you want it to ride and perform good you'll need need to cut the tub to fit the tires, you're going to need highline fenders (which MC is not), if you want to drive it on the highway you're going to want to do something to the engine to move the tires, you need manual hubs in the front since your caster angle will be taking priority, coilovers will probably be needed since TJ coils + shocks won't fit anymore, and more. It's not an easy shoe-in to go to 37s.
 
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For 37s you'll need a wider axle, at least a Dana 60 front and rear, you'll need to make your own track bar and steering since stock style won't fit, if you want it to ride and perform good you'll need need to cut the tub to fit the tires, you're going to need highline fenders (which MC is not), if you want to drive it on the highway you're going to want to do something to the engine to move the tires, you need manual hubs in the front since your caster angle will be taking priority, coilovers will probably be needed since TJ coils + shocks won't fit anymore, and more. It's not an easy shoe-in to go to 37s.
Carbon Offroad claims their Dana 44 front will handle 37's wheeling. It's not a TJ spec'd axle, it's got some beefy 3"/.375" DOM tubes and runs JK gears. They use a Currie housing then put their own chromoly shafts in it. Obviously the Dana 44 wouldn't have manual hubs like you mentioned, it's got a built in 5 degrees pinion angle and 5 degrees caster. It's optimized for a 4" lift according to Currie. Are you saying stock width axles wouldn't be able to tuck 37's without chopping the body or is it more about the stability? Not trying to make this into an axle only thread lol.

I understand the concern about the motor at that point though, would you not be able to gear it better to help? I'd run a stick shift either way and I'm open to some power adding also.

Metalcloak claims 37's will fit their rear corners with a little trimming and the front fenders with a 3" lift, are there more factors at play here? You'd need to mess with bumpstop length I'm sure. If I'm in for a rude awakening let's get it over with 😆
 
I have been contemplating this same decision. Here’s my choice...

I’m going to stay at a 35” tire and run Currie Short Arms With my stock Dana 30/Dana 44 And 4.56 gears. I choose 4.56 because the PO swapped them in.

Reasons... Several On here run this combo with a few wheeling out in Johnson Valley , the hardest trails in the US.

They don’t experience much breakage and they have a lot of success.

35” is a very streetable tire and is big enough for anything I plan, for sure.

I’ve been down the 37”+ tire route. It’s not all it’s cracked up to be. Once you start swapping axles, extending wheelbases, and chopping up your rig it just turns into a nightmare of compromise, money, and effort.

I am going to stay within the parameters of the original vehicle this time...wheelbase, bracketry, etc etc.

And I’m going to be much happier with a very driveable and wheelable rig.
 
I think you'd be super happy with a well built TJ on 35s and 4" lift. It'd do everything you listed very well. There will be significantly less work and maintenance compared to 37s (a few months to build working on it evenings and weekends vs over a year).
X2, my thoughts exactly. My TJ with its 4" Currie SL, 1" BL, and 35" tires does everything well on the trails I enjoy. It just completed the Rubicon Trail and it does trails that would scare most Jeepers half to death lol.
 
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37's just look too big unless you stretch the rig, or get an LJ. Even with an LJ you still will need to cut/chop/fit if you want up travel better than a skateboard.
 
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The problem with my current TJ is the Dana 35 under the rear end. Even for 35's the way I intend to use it I'm going to need to do some axle mods. For 35's would the Savvy midarm still be worth doing? I'd still like to do some upgraded axles just to avoid problems down the road, whether that's just buying some or building up some 44's somewhere. I want front and rear lockers (selectable probably), I'd have to upgrade brakes for sure also.

Either way, I'm glad to hear from some more experienced than I am so thanks you all for your opinions. I would still like to keep it where I can put it on the street and I see why 35's are better for that. I just want something that's all but bulletproof for some trails like I mentioned, that's more important than going 75 down the highway to me because I won't do anything until I have another daily.
 
I have been contemplating this same decision. Here’s my choice...

I’m going to stay at a 35” tire and run Currie Short Arms With my stock Dana 30/Dana 44 And 4.56 gears. I choose 4.56 because the PO swapped them in.

Reasons... Several On here run this combo with a few wheeling out in Johnson Valley , the hardest trails in the US.

They don’t experience much breakage and they have a lot of success.

35” is a very streetable tire and is big enough for anything I plan, for sure.

I’ve been down the 37”+ tire route. It’s not all it’s cracked up to be. Once you start swapping axles, extending wheelbases, and chopping up your rig it just turns into a nightmare of compromise, money, and effort.

I am going to stay within the parameters of the original vehicle this time...wheelbase, bracketry, etc etc.

And I’m going to be much happier with a very driveable and wheelable rig.
I love the look of your Jeep, can't beat the blue color in my opinion. I'd like to paint my tan hard top to be black also. I see you're from Arkansas, which part of the state are you from? I'm around Cabot
 
I love the look of your Jeep, can't beat the blue color in my opinion. I'd like to paint my tan hard top to be black also. I see you're from Arkansas, which part of the state are you from? I'm around Cabot

Thanks!

I’m in the Clarksville Area. Ride with the Ozark Jeep Junkies.
 
The problem with my current TJ is the Dana 35 under the rear end. Even for 35's the way I intend to use it I'm going to need to do some axle mods. For 35's would the Savvy midarm still be worth doing? I'd still like to do some upgraded axles just to avoid problems down the road, whether that's just buying some or building up some 44's somewhere. I want front and rear lockers (selectable probably), I'd have to upgrade brakes for sure also.

Either way, I'm glad to hear from some more experienced than I am so thanks you all for your opinions. I would still like to keep it where I can put it on the street and I see why 35's are better for that. I just want something that's all but bulletproof for some trails like I mentioned, that's more important than going 75 down the highway to me because I won't do anything until I have another daily.

There was a guy on Jeep-Owner that put the mid arm on his (presumably Super) Dana 35. There is a link to his build somewhere in my build thread.
 
Carbon Offroad claims their Dana 44 front will handle 37's wheeling.

They might hold up to your wheeling or they might not. The JK44 tends to require excessive maintenance and replacement parts due to wear compared to the 60 which holds up. Will Carbon Offroad replace balljoints and unit bearings often for you?