Currie track bar and future lift

ellipsis

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Greetings to all

I'm glad to join this forum and share information with you all.
I own a lovely TJ 2001 Sahara (Manual). It came with 30" tires and I am pretty sure there is no lift installed.

In near future I plan to buy a 3" to 4" liftkit (Currie, most probably) and bump it up to 33s. However, Since this is my DD I urgently need to replace the trackbar and steering stablizer, like asap.

I understand that most of the lift kits comes with the track bars. But I am wondering if it is a good idea to buy the same trackbar that comes with the lift kit and possibly to buy the liftkit without front trackbar. Is that possible?

Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIYGXJ2/?tag=wranglerorg-20 (Haven't compared the prices yet)

Any help is greatly appreciated.

- ...
 
@ellipsis, first off, good choice on the Currie lift. The Currie 4" lift is arguable the best out-of-the-box lift kit available for the TJ. Currie has built quite a name for themselves, and I can tell you personally from running the Currie 4" lift both on-road and off-road, it is an absolutely wonderful lift, second to none.

I didn't purchase the lift as one kit. I did it similar to how you are planning on doing it. I purchased the Antirock separately, so when it came time to purchase the lift I had to have them special order me a lift without the Antirock (which is normally included).

This is easy to do. All you have to do when it's time to order the lift is contact someone like AOR (a forum sponsor here) or Ricky at 4 Low Parts and either of them will gladly get you a Currie kit minus the parts you already have.

Lastly, the best price I've found on the track bar is here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIYGXJ2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

That track bar is amazing. When I first installed it I was blown away by how thick, sturdy and beefy it is. In addition to that, it also has some of the best clearance of any front track bar out there.

You will NOT be disappointed with your choice!
 
I also have a 2001 Sahara (manual) that came with 30" tires and no lift (been in the family since it was driven off the lot). And funnily enough, I also wanted to get a 3" - 4" Currie lift. I just got it back from the shop on Friday. I just bought the full Currie kit with no springs. The currie kit came with an antirock and all the bells and whistles. Then, I bought 3" Savvy springs because the 4" Currie springs would have been too much lift. When it comes to pricing, the shop that I had the work done at gave me an incredible price on the lift. It was well below what you can find online. I think that is your best bet when it comes to getting the kit for the lowest price, unless you plan on doing the work yourself. Even when installing it yourself, I think the cheapest way is to buy the kit as a whole. In case you were wondering what it will look like, I'll attach some pictures of my jeep. 33's, 3" Savvy springs.

10253841_959250514159904_8805415036142248303_n.jpg


1533729_959250470826575_313398807280890281_n.jpg
 
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I don't think your question was answered. Assuming that you have the Dana 30 front axle, you may run into clearance issues unless you have at least two inches of lift.

Taken from Currie:
Note: This track bar is intended to be used with a minimum of 2 inch of lift. It may work on vehicles with less lift with Dana 30 front-ends

For future planning purposes, to run 33s and plan on any off roading you will want either a 4" suspension lift (which will then require a SYE and new rear driveshaft or a 3" lift and at least a 1" body lift (which may still require a SYE).
 
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I don't think your question was answered. Assuming that you have the Dana 30 front axle, you may run into clearance issues unless you have at least two inches of lift..

Yes, I forgot to address that issue.

Speaking from first hand experience (I had a track bar before a lift, though it wasn't a Currie at the time) I can tell you that you will likely be fine with the Currie track bar and no lift, assuming you don't take it off-road or do any flexing.

If you put the track bar on the stock suspension with the Dana 30 (which has more clearance than the Dana 44, so that's good) you usually won't encounter any rubbing or binding issues unless you start flexing (as it taking it off road).

So, put the track bar on and avoid off-roading it until you have the rest of the lift on and the new bump stops (which come with the kit) properly installed.
 
I don't think your question was answered. Assuming that you have the Dana 30 front axle, you may run into clearance issues unless you have at least two inches of lift.

Taken from Currie:
Note: This track bar is intended to be used with a minimum of 2 inch of lift. It may work on vehicles with less lift with Dana 30 front-ends

For future planning purposes, to run 33s and plan on any off roading you will want either a 4" suspension lift (which will then require a SYE and new rear driveshaft or a 3" lift and at least a 1" body lift (which may still require a SYE).

The 3" springs from Savvy netted me more than 3 inches of lift. I've seen that the 4" springs can really mean 5" on lighter jeeps. Depending on the amount of armor he is getting, I think the 3" springs would be enough for 33's. I think I have enough clearance for them.
 
The 3" springs from Savvy netted me more than 3 inches of lift. I've seen that the 4" springs can really mean 5" on lighter jeeps. Depending on the amount of armor he is getting, I think the 3" springs would be enough for 33's. I think I have enough clearance for them.

3" springs on 33" tires will be just fine as long as it's bump stopped correctly.

But yes, you're right... Most spring heights will vary depending on how much weight you have on the vehicle.
 
3" springs on 33" tires will be just fine as long as it's bump stopped correctly.

But yes, you're right... Most spring heights will vary depending on how much weight you have on the vehicle.

The Currie and Savvy springs are made for heavier jeeps so 3" springs really gave me 4".
 
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Hi again,

Thank you all for being so wonderful and replying to my noob question =)

—-
@jodomcfrodo, your rig looks great, can’t wait to get mine lifted. I try to learn and do simple mods (like replacing track-bar) by myself but lifting sounds like a mighty task that I need to find a professional to do it. Question though, why did you pick 3” Savvy springs? Wouldn’t getting 3” Currie spring be the same?

—-
@Chris, that trackbar on Amazon has been in my shopping cart for almost 3 weeks now. Just doing final checks before pulling the trigger. Just saw that you are from Portland so it may be worth checking if you know any reliable mechanic/shop in Tacoma?

—-
@Serbonze: "For future planning purposes, to run 33s and plan on any off roading you will want either a 4" suspension lift (which will then require a SYE and new rear driveshaft or a 3" lift and at least a 1" body lift (which may still require a SYE)."

I imagine all of this will come in the lift kit and it will still be okay if I get 3” Savvy springs like Jodomcfrodo. Right?
————
Again, Thank you very much for taking time in helping me out, guys!

Here are two pictures of the frontend area of my Jeep. In case if something stands out as a red flag. Am I right about no lift so far? I know I have a bit of cleaning to do but this is how it is right now.

http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/1.driverSide.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/2.passengerSide.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/IMG_20150906_163133.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/IMG_20150906_163040.jpg

Cheers!
...
 
Currie makes 3" and 4" springs, with a heavy rate rear version of each for LJs and heavier TJs. Be sure to look at your part numbers, some people order the wrong kit and end up with the heavy rate rears when they don't need them.

Savvy offers 3" springs that are made for them by Currie. However, they are only available as heavy rate rears and standard fronts.

This is my very light 2001 Sahara a day after installing the Currie 4" springs. It has no armor, no back seat, small bumpers, and a soft top. I spoke with Gerald from Savvy, and he advise that with this set up I would get about 4.5" of lift at first, but it would settle to right at 4". As it sits right now two weeks after install I'm at 4.25" in front and about 4.5" in the rear. It should be perfect once it settles.
image.jpeg


A lift kit will not typically include a SYE or driveshaft, and very few will include a body lift unless they are a combo kit like the Zone 4.25" kit (3" suspension and 1.25" body lift).
 
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@ellipsis, nothing stands out as a red flag in those photos. Your suspension looks just like I would expect. Good call on the Currie track bar, I swear that thing is just designed so well. You'll be really impressed when you hold it in person and see how nicely it's made.

Lastly, I don't know any reputable shops in Tacoma. It's too bad you're not in the Portland area because I know one of the best Jeep guys in the entire NW (actually he's probably THE beat) is @David Kishpaugh who knows these things in and out.
 
Currie makes 3" and 4" springs, with a heavy rate rear version of each for LJs and heavier TJs. Be sure to look at your part numbers, some people order the wrong kit and end up with the heavy rate rears when they don't need them.

Savvy offers 3" springs that are made for them by Currie. However, they are only available as heavy rate rears and standard fronts.

This is my very light 2001 Sahara a day after installing the Currie 4" springs. It has no armor, no back seat, small bumpers, and a soft top. I spoke with Gerald from Savvy, and he advise that with this set up I would get about 4.5" of lift at first, but it would settle to right at 4". As it sits right now two weeks after install I'm at 4.25" in front and about 4.5" in the rear. It should be perfect once it settles.
View attachment 3414

A lift kit will not typically include a SYE or driveshaft, and very few will include a body lift unless they are a combo kit like the Zone 4.25" kit (3" suspension and 1.25" body lift).
Hi again,

Thank you all for being so wonderful and replying to my noob question =)

—-
@jodomcfrodo, your rig looks great, can’t wait to get mine lifted. I try to learn and do simple mods (like replacing track-bar) by myself but lifting sounds like a mighty task that I need to find a professional to do it. Question though, why did you pick 3” Savvy springs? Wouldn’t getting 3” Currie spring be the same?

—-
@Chris, that trackbar on Amazon has been in my shopping cart for almost 3 weeks now. Just doing final checks before pulling the trigger. Just saw that you are from Portland so it may be worth checking if you know any reliable mechanic/shop in Tacoma?

—-
@Serbonze: "For future planning purposes, to run 33s and plan on any off roading you will want either a 4" suspension lift (which will then require a SYE and new rear driveshaft or a 3" lift and at least a 1" body lift (which may still require a SYE)."

I imagine all of this will come in the lift kit and it will still be okay if I get 3” Savvy springs like Jodomcfrodo. Right?
————
Again, Thank you very much for taking time in helping me out, guys!

Here are two pictures of the frontend area of my Jeep. In case if something stands out as a red flag. Am I right about no lift so far? I know I have a bit of cleaning to do but this is how it is right now.

http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/1.driverSide.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/2.passengerSide.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/IMG_20150906_163133.jpg
http://omo.io/images/2016/03/01/IMG_20150906_163040.jpg

Cheers!
...


I went with 3" Savvy springs because I didn't know that Currie made 3" Springs. I thought they only made 4". Looking at the pictures of Serbonze's Jeep, the 4" springs might be the better bet. I was afraid mine was going to be lifted too much. I'm a fan of LCG jeeps anyway. I'm hoping to go to 35's in a couple of years with the same lift. I'm going to highline the fenders and maybe get a 1" body lift depending on how much clearance I have.

I should also point out that the pictures of my jeep were taken a day after a got it back from the shop, so the suspension is probably a bit higher than it will be when it settles.
 
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Hey guys,

Thank you so much for the help and feedback so far.

I just found out that in order to put this track bar I will have to drill out axle mount to 1/2" and frame mount to 5/8".

Will you mind providing few pictures of this mounts so that I can use it as a reference. Just a bit nervous drilling into the frame.

- ...

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys,

Thank you so much for the help and feedback so far.

I just found out that in order to put this track bar I will have to drill out axle mount to 1/2" and frame mount to 5/8".

Will you mind providing few pictures of this mounts so that I can use it as a reference. Just a bit nervous drilling into the frame.

- ...

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I don't have any pictures, but I had to drill that hole out for my track bar, and it literally takes all of 20 seconds, no joke. It's easy, easy, easy as can be.
 
Hi Again,
( @Chris @jodomcfrodo @Serbonze )

After some more research, I got the new lift installed. I got the 4" currie lift with Anti-rock (CE-9800HS).
Among the other things, the old busted oem Steering-Stablizer was replaced with ARB OME SD40.

I love the new look and feel. However, while driving back from the shop I noticed there is a weird pull towards the left-side. It doesn't happen consistently, just random. So I turned around and took it back right away. The mechanic said it's because of all the new changes and suggested to give few hundred miles for things to rouse up and get used to it. Did anybody here experience this pull after your lift install?

Personally, I am not buying it. There is no way it could be acceptable for the Jeep to verve left randomly. But I am a bit inexperience with this things so thought I will check here.

Here are before/after pictures :).

Cheers!
...

before.jpg
after.jpg
 
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I never had any pull to the left with my new lift. Don't know what could cause that with the suspension. Might be the fault of the new stabilizer. I just kept the stock one so I would't know about that.
A random pull might be a bit beyond my knowledge. I don't know much about steering but I can't really think what could be causing that. Only other thought is the diffs, but I doubt that diffs would just start to spin tires at different rates randomly. Looking at how they work, I can't see that even being possible.

Quick google search found this:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/03-tj-pulls-hard-to-the-right-randomly-19944.html

The currie kit doesn't come with a drop pitman arm. I would check to see if the installer threw one on anyway. That could be the culprit.

I would get some new tires on that asap. Looks good otherwise.
 
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The currie kit doesn't come with a drop pitman arm. I would check to see if the installer threw one on anyway. That could be the culprit.

Absolutely, positively do not run a drop pitman arm with a Currie 4" lift, not a good idea at all. That will only make things worse.

A pull to one side or another is likely due to the vehicle needing an alignment and toe-in adjustment after the lift (which should have been done anyways).

My money is on the alignment and toe-in being out of whack, in which case that is VERY easy to fix.

However, it could also be something worn that is being amplified by the new lift, such as a worn ball joint or something.

Still, make sure it's aligned and the toe-in is set to 1/8-1/4" in on the front tires. You can check the alignment and toe-in by using this method: How to align and adjust toe-in on Jeep Wrangler TJ
 
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Absolutely, positively do not run a drop pitman arm with a Currie 4" lift, not a good idea at all. That will only make things worse.

A pull to one side or another is likely due to the vehicle needing an alignment and toe-in adjustment after the lift (which should have been done anyways).

My money is on the alignment and toe-in being out of whack, in which case that is VERY easy to fix.

However, it could also be something worn that is being amplified by the new lift, such as a worn ball joint or something.

Still, make sure it's aligned and the toe-in is set to 1/8-1/4" in on the front tires. You can check the alignment and toe-in by using this method: How to align and adjust toe-in on Jeep Wrangler TJ

Just to be clear, I was not suggesting that he should get a drop pitman arm. I was saying that the installer might have thought it was needed and put one on anyway. I do not have a drop pitman arm on my jeep. I was thinking about alignment as well, but that wouldn't cause random pulls would it?
 
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Just to be clear, I was not suggesting that he should get a drop pitman arm. I was saying that the installer might have thought it was needed and put one on anyway. I do not have a drop pitman arm on my jeep. I was thinking about alignment as well, but that wouldn't cause random pulls would it?

OHHHH!! Yes, clearly I misunderstood. I thought you were suggesting a drop Pitman arm could be the cure.

OP, I would check to make sure that the installer didn't install a drop pitman arm, as that would almost certainly be the cause of your issue.