Custom in-cab winch switch issue

Pcleaners2

Pcleaners2

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Keeps blowing fuses after I wired an in cab switch for my winch. The fuse only blows when I go to “winch in” or “winch out” I put the fuse on the accessory wire. Am I not supposed to use one ?? Was using a 20A standard fuse.

My winch works fine when I plug in the remote or use as wireless. It just my in cab switch with is not working when winching
 
How did you wire in your custom switch? Battery plus from? To where on the winch? Have a schematic of your winch wiring? Which winch do you have?
 
X2 to dbbd1's question of how you wired it. I've wired several cab-mounted winch controllers and wired properly they work fine. Also a remote switch doesn't need a fuse any more than the OE remote switch does. You just have to have the switch wired in properly.
 
i wonder if having the fuse is the culprit. Maybe I’ll just get rid of that. I did wire it from an accessory wire to the switch.
I used the mictunic 7 pin winch switch. Wired the accessory to pin 1,3. Then pins 2,5 to solenoid +. 7 is ground and 4,6 is in and out.
 
It's not the fuse causing the problem, whatever is blowing the fuse would get a wire hot too. We need to see the wiring schematic you used to wire it from. What brand and model winch?
 
Pcleaners2 said:
It’s wired from the white wire with pink line in the steering column harness. That wire worked for my light bar and KC lights
Click to expand...
Your verbal descriptions of how that switch is wired are inadequate, they don't show how it is wired. Post a schematic of how it's wired.

And you should not be providing power to the winch solenoids via your remote switch. The only thing your switch should be providing is an on-off switch for the In/Out circuits. There should be NO wiring connected to your light bar, steering column harness, etc.

For a Smittybilt it's likely you only need a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch. The switch's center lug going to ground and the other two connections going to the in/out circuit on the winch.
 
And do not bypass the fuse !!

You are only blowing fuses because you are drawing tooo much power.
Bypassing it will melt wires and destroy whatever else is on the circuit.
Is your insurance fully paid?
 
And, I bet, you are not using relays. If you are blowing a 20 amp fuse, your switch, which is probably (hopefully) rated for 20 amps, is probably max'ed out too.


Time to do this right...

Use your steering column wire to your switch(es), which will then control relays, wired, with fuses, to your battery.
 
dbbd1 said:
And, I bet, you are not using relays. If you are blowing a 20 amp fuse, your switch, which is probably (hopefully) rated for 20 amps, is probably max'ed out too.


Time to do this right...

Use your steering column wire to your switch(es), which will then control relays, wired, with fuses, to your battery.
Click to expand...
A remote cab-mounted winch control does NOT require or need relays, a winch's remote control circuit is very low current. A remote control switch is only used to control the primary side of the winch's existing relay(s) inside the winch. If his switch is seeing 20 amps his circuit is grossly miswired. A remote control circuit only handles a couple amps at the most to control the primary side of the relays inside the winch.

A remote winch control mounted inside the cab is nothing more than another remote winch control like comes with the winch. A small handle with a switch and wiring leading out of it. It just doesn't need a handle like the remote winch control does that comes with the winch.
 
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And, I hope your lights are wired with a relay or else it just gets worse...

I would def error on the side of caution and use relays.
 
The lights are ok and used relays. Nothing wrong there. I was just saying I’m using the same accessory wire that I had my lights on. I only want the inside cab switch to turn on when the car is on.

I also added a safety switch before the winch switch in the cab .
 
It’s under “ mictunic winch switch install” on you tube .
But I also added a safety switch and fuse on accessory wire

Not to make you guys work or anything just if you’d like to see . I really like these switches for my lights but not able to figure it out with my winch switch
 
The winch's two control leads, one for winching 'in' and the other for winching 'out' work by grounding those leads. Not giving them power. Ground the 'cable in' lead and the winch will start spooling wire in. Ground the 'cable out' lead and it will start spooling out.

This is a typical Smittybilt winch circuit. Connect the center lug of a SPDT switch to the black ground wire on the winch solenoid (aka relay). Connect one of the two SPDT's remaining lugs to the Blue 'Cable In' wire. Connect the SPDT's remaining lug to the Yellow Cable out wire. The switch will now be able to control the winch.

The Red, Black, Green, Brown, & White wires coming in on the left side are for a 3rd party remote switch. They're connected up just as I'm recommending you do.

Once you get it working, then you can get more advanced later and wire up a small inexpensive SPST relay to allow the remote control to only work once you turn the ignition switch on. The relay can make/break the SPDT's center lug connection to the solenoid's black ground wire.
80193
 
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