Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

The eventual plan to add a small wheel base stretch in order to help the rear drive shaft. He wants the body to look reasonably stock. So we've been trying to figure out what to do for rear flares. TJ flares allow for a larger wheel opening that could be shifted back a few inches. But they don't match the front. BesTop used to make a CJ style flare for the TJ which would be nearly perfect, but those are long of production.
 
After months of pavement and being too busy with life and work, I finally got the jeep out on some trails today. This is the first outing after moving all the shock mounts around. Mother was with, so the day was meant to be quiet and easy. While I wouldn't call anything anything on Yankee Hill near Idaho Springs difficult, this is the smoothest and most stable the Jeep has ever been on the few areas that required a bit of negotiation. I can't wait to tackle some more interesting terrain this summer!
 
@jjvw, I am considering the airbags you mentioned earlier, but have a few questions. Are they lasting? The reviews aren't great, so that makes me curious. Did you have to order special bags or did you just buy the kit for the TJ? If you did have to order special bags what is the best way to do so? Is it worth while?

Thanks in advance!
 
The bags are doing just fine after two years. I don't use them much, but they do the job when needed. My dad has had these in his truck for much longer and used them far more then me. No problems there either.

I did not use the TJ kit and I did not follow AirLift's directions. I personally don't think they understand how our suspension works or how to tailor for a lifted TJ. AirLift recommends always keeping the bags at 3psi when not in use. They also tell you to cut or even remove the bump stop jounce. I disagree with this.

This is my recommendation...

Make sure the bump stops are correctly extended.

Measure the largest inside diameter of the coil. Measure the space between the axle pad and the bottom of the jounces. The deflated bags should be this size and fill the space. Close enough is probably good enough. Somewhere, I found a list of measurements. Then I called AL to confirm. Mine might be for a Toyota.

I run my bags empty when not in use. I also built in a bleed valve that can be locked open. I can hear it hiss while driving.

My thought is that I don't want the bags to add resistance to the up travel. I want them to start adding their support as soon they begin to inflate. And I want the jounces to do their job.
 
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The bags are doing just fine after two years. I don't use them much, but they do the job when needed. My dad has had these in his truck for much longer and used them far more then me. No problems there either.

I did not use the TJ kit and I did not follow AirLift's directions. I personally don't think they understand how our suspension works or how to tailor for a lifted TJ. AirLift recommends always keeping the bags at 3psi when not in use. They also tell you to cut or even remove the bump stop jounce. I disagree with this.

This is my recommendation...

Make sure the bump stops are correctly extended.

Measure the largest inside diameter of the coil. Measure the space between the axle pad and the bottom of the jounces. The deflated bags should be this size and fill the space. Close enough is probably good enough. Somewhere, I found a list of measurements. Then I called AL to confirm. Mine might be for a Toyota.

I run my bags empty when not in use. I also built in a bleed valve that can be locked open. I can hear it hiss while driving.

My thought is that I don't want the bags to add resistance to the up travel. I want them to start adding their support as soon they begin to inflate. And I want the jounces to do their job.

Thanks for the advice. I am still tweaking with my suspension, and will most likely do this soon.
 
Thanks for the advice. I am still tweaking with my suspension, and will most likely do this soon.
One thing I'll add is that the need for bags increases with softer spring rates. My Curries are long and light, so the sagging is exaggerated. Rubicon Express is short and heavy and will sink less if the same amount of weight is added to them.
 
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One thing I'll add is that the need for bags increases with softer spring rates. My Curries are long and light, so the sagging is exaggerated. Rubicon Express is short and heavy and will sink less if the same amount of weight is added to them.

So I changed my rear OME springs from light to heavy thinking it would handle the sink of my trailer better and it actually doesn't well maybe but not to the naked eye. IT sags a tiny bit over an inch. I don't tow much, but when I do it is up in the mountains and some distances, so I don't like the front end lightened up at freeway speeds. I probably could lower it back down and put the bags in it, but I kind of like the extra height of the heavy springs. It has a quarter inch rake right now with no load. I really kind of like it that way as I don't really carry a load all of that often. So I think bags will fill that gap for me. I am also considering onboard air so that will be a bonus I can level up on the road.
 
What you are describing is about how I ended up with bags in mine. I go back and forth between running empty and carrying or pulling a load.

Another build to study is Unlimited04's over on JeepForum. I got the air bag idea from him and much of my early suspension and my build philosophy comes from him.
 
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What you are describing is about how I ended up with bags in mine. I go back and forth between running empty and carrying or pulling a load.

Another build to study is Unlimited04's over on JeepForum. I got the air bag idea from him and much of my early suspension and my build philosophy comes from him.
I will check that out thanks for the tip!
 
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A few months back I learned about these...

Select Increments DPE03065 Dash-Pods (without Speakers)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T1AB28Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
51oGnxB8gFL.jpg


Mine arrived today and I installed them with my Polk DB521 speakers during lunch. I am now aware that I have front speakers! Much clearer sound with more volume. Before these I had foam baffles with adapter plates. I cut off the flange on the baffles to seal the speakers against the pods.

0301ec21f26273bbaa1bc27c5451ccf1.jpg

8471748cd17dba0f65fdbe1382f26314.jpg
 
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A friend gave me his damaged rear Rubi locker today. Spare parts. I know the actuator is good and it came with the diff housing air inlet. I actually need that part since mine is pretty rusty.

Don't know about the rest. The axle was a transplant into his 97. Sometime before it failed, he accidentally locked it while on the highway. No one knows exactly what failed or if the two are related.
 
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A few months back I learned about these...

Select Increments DPE03065 Dash-Pods (without Speakers)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T1AB28Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
View attachment 41392

Mine arrived today and I installed them with my Polk DB521 speakers during lunch. I am now aware that I have front speakers! Much clearer sound with more volume. Before these I had foam baffles with adapter plates. I cut off the flange on the baffles to seal the speakers against the pods.

View attachment 41388
View attachment 41387

I've been considering these, I'm just unsure whether they're worth $80.

My current Polk sound system rocks! I just wonder if these would further improve it.
 
I've been considering these, I'm just unsure whether they're worth $80.

My current Polk sound system rocks! I just wonder if these would further improve it.

In my case, there was an improvement. Do you have any kind of enclosure around your Polks?
 
In my case, there was an improvement. Do you have any kind of enclosure around your Polks?

The rear Polks are enclosed because they are in the sound bar of course, but the front Polks have no enclosure at all.
 
The rear Polks are enclosed because they are in the sound bar of course, but the front Polks have no enclosure at all.

You should have a more dramatic improvement in the front than I did coming from foam baffles.