3/8" bore for the banjo adapter.
3/8" bore for the banjo adapter.
We run the small fittings so the line is modular. Inverted flare x -3 AN Male at the frame. -3 Female swivel x -3 Female swivel for the line in SS braid, then a -3 x 3/8" banjo adapter at the caliper with at least 3/4" of length to get the hex away from the caliper so you can get a wrench on it.Late to reply but hopefully you ordered something like this. There's no need for the small fittings, they make the lines just like you need with the correct fittings.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-657310
Thanks. Cancelling the order to start over.3/8" bore for the banjo adapter.
SS braided lines are pretty delicate. When you get the length, order two as spares. We were putting Chris's calipers back on. I moved the bracket over on the frame to get the bolt back in by pushing on the line and fitting where it was crimped. Very low effort since it is just the hardline coming down from the master holding it. That small bit of force snapped the braided part right at the end of the crimp.Thanks. Cancelling the order to start over.
I got black!They also come with a plastic jacket if you desire.
I suppose if I damage a line, then I can potentially replace it without disrupting the crush washer on the banjo.Why not -3an to banjo at the caliper (on the line, not using adapters)? That's what I did. Lines were all from Fragola.
They do and they pose a problem. Very few don't have the jacket fail and that creates a stress point that beats up the stainless braid. I prefer the jacketed lines but they tend to have more issues. The only good things about SS braid lines is they are available in any length, they are common, they are not terribly expensive. They are crap for durability and resistance to abuse. I'd take the OEM flex hoses in a modular configuration any day of the week over SS braid.They also come with a plastic jacket if you desire.
That line is double the price of a -3 AN swivel on both ends and if you damage a line, you have to replace the whole thing. If they are modular, you only replace the damaged section. For us, that has been all 3 pieces individually at some point. One should also carry a spare banjo bolt and crush washers. We damage those pretty often.Why not -3an to banjo at the caliper (on the line, not using adapters)? That's what I did. Lines were all from Fragola.
The price I got on Fragola lines with -3AN one end and 3/8" banjo on the other was roughly the same (mine were longer but a few dollars more) as the Goodridge line is at Summit. That was much cheaper than buying the lines as well as two $10 banjo to -3AN adapters.That line is double the price of a -3 AN swivel on both ends and if you damage a line, you have to replace the whole thing. If they are modular, you only replace the damaged section. For us, that has been all 3 pieces individually at some point. One should also carry a spare banjo bolt and crush washers. We damage those pretty often.
Knowing the possibilities, why stay with oem style brake hoses if further damage is a real possibility?Would you recommend so many spares with OEM type brake hoses?
What we damage on the trails has nothing to do with the type of hose. Rocks just don't care.Would you recommend so many spares with OEM type brake hoses?
What we damage on the trails has nothing to do with the type of hose. Rocks just don't care.
Anything that works. I'm not that picky and when rocks get involved, they all lose.After seeing carnage to a shock, there is no chance for a brake hose. What type brake hoses do you like?
Never intended, but they also weren't a problem for many years until I added the new bit of down travel along with the small front stretch. Really, I should have seen that the YJ hoses were both at their limit on my setup and vulnerable to getting caught on the shock.The YJ hoses were never intended for a TJ. The 4" longer TJ hoses might not have the same issue.