Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

The gashole from a YJ...
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goes here...
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My heat treated 4340 tie rod arrived!

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This is the tie rod Savvy used to sell before switching to a fatter aluminum tie rod that doesn't fit very well.

Get the new Black Magic Brakes version here...
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/4340-TIE-ROD-HEAT-TREATED-4340-TIE-ROD.htm
And discuss here...
Thread 'Toughness personified' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/toughness-personified.58781/
Are you missing your cotter pin on the tie rod to drag link TRE? Maybe you took the pic before you installed it, but I'd hate to see that come apart on you!
 
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Assuming one is coming from stock Jeep steering, is there a good way to get the currie currectlync and the BMB Tie Rod without purchasing anything twice?
If there is enough demand, I can arrange to supply the RJ ends with the tie rod. That won't save any money but you won't have to buy anything twice if we get it right.
 
Assuming one is coming from stock Jeep steering, is there a good way to get the currie currectlync and the BMB Tie Rod without purchasing anything twice?
You can buy the individual pieces.

* Drag Link $358: https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701DL-TJ-LJ-XJ-MJ-ZJ-Currectlync-Drag-Link-Complete
* Tie Rod $185: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/4340-TIE-ROD-HEAT-TREATED-4340-TIE-ROD.htm
* TRE RH $82: https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701TRR-TJ-LJ-XJ-MJ-Currectlync-Tie-Rod-End-RH
* TRE LH $82: https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701TRL-TJ-LJ-XJ-MJ-ZJ-Currectlync-Tie-Rod-End-LH

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* Steering Damper bracket $43: https://www.rockjock4x4.com/Steering-Stabilizer-Shock-Bracket-Kit-fits-1-1-4-Inch-Tie-Rod (thanks @JDM)
 
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WTF?? I mean seriously, ignoring sound principles simply to hop into that bumper market? I'd be ashamed to perpetuate the philosophy that my customers won't use their rigs enough to leave off those lower bolts.

Is that the biggest issue with it? But the main rear-facing bolts also look weird to me. Like they (and the shackle tabs) should be squeezed closer together to put the strength where the frame rails are. Maybe it's just my eyes playing tricks on me.

I like that it's full width. I'd been considering buying one of the other options and modifying it to be full width. I don't think I need corner armor but I feel like I want more protection for the lower edge of the tub. No reason to spend the money for this one from MC and then have to modify for the bottom bolts, there are less expensive ones that would make better starting points (and better aesthetics IMO). The Barnes is only $129, but it's not boxed under the bottom (except for the bottom holes) or the sides, so I'd want to add that, as well as widen it out.
 
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Similar reasons I don't have a bumper like this on my lj too. I don't need Corner armor yet but the bumper I have I bought because it went out just past the corner. A few times I would have hit the tub if wasn't for that bumper.

I thought about buying a slim bumper like this too and extending out to the corners or adding wrap around tube.
 
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Is that the biggest issue with it? But the main rear-facing bolts also look weird to me. Like they (and the shackle tabs) should be squeezed closer together to put the strength where the frame rails are. Maybe it's just my eyes playing tricks on me.

I like that it's full width. I'd been considering buying one of the other options and modifying it to be full width. I don't think I need corner armor but I feel like I want more protection for the lower edge of the tub. No reason to spend the money for this one from MC and then have to modify for the bottom bolts, there are less expensive ones that would make better starting points (and better aesthetics IMO). The Barnes is only $129, but it's not boxed under the bottom (except for the bottom holes) or the sides, so I'd want to add that, as well as widen it out.

To be fair, they named it the Slim Crawler bumper. Nowhere do they specify rock crawling or mall crawling.
 
To be fair, they named it the Slim Crawler bumper. Nowhere do they specify rock crawling or mall crawling.

accurate.

What blaine brings up about not having bottom bolts is crazy. This picture looks like they did some sort of boatside thing on the bottom, which seems like it would give more of an edge to get caught on, and more leverage to rip the bumper off. :ROFLMAO:

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accurate.

What blaine brings up about not having bottom bolts is crazy. This picture looks like they did some sort of boatside thing on the bottom, which seems like it would give more of an edge to get caught on, and more leverage to rip the bumper off. :ROFLMAO:

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All that thing will do is peel if it is used for what it is implied to be used for.
 
accurate.

What blaine brings up about not having bottom bolts is crazy. This picture looks like they did some sort of boatside thing on the bottom, which seems like it would give more of an edge to get caught on, and more leverage to rip the bumper off. :ROFLMAO:

All that thing will do is peel if it is used for what it is implied to be used for.
It really looks like an ebay/Amazon or Extreme Terrain house bumper. Especially from that angle.

Extending it to the corners isn't a bad idea but the rest of the execution seems to be.

Not sure why those chose the photo with random bunch of old wires dangling.
 
All that thing will do is peel if it is used for what it is implied to be used for.

I don't like how the Barnes leaves an open bottom edge either, but it least has tabs for the lower bolts and would at least be easy to weld a strip of 3/16" to. Probably add some to the backside of where that tab is attached as well.

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