Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

[Rickyd]

You sound like you have a STEMs background. Am I right? (same here)

Trade schools guy here. I worked at an experimental aircraft shop for years though learning many types of composites. I did work with engineers to design and build helicopter and aircraft parts. Even made some carbon fiber parts for space-x rockets(no it isn't the reason they all blew up,lol) and built parts for aviation defense contractors.

 

[jjvw]

This is very promising. I let the first cast knob cure for several days before trying it. It locks and unlocks on my spare hub as crisp and cleanly as the original knob!

 

[jjvw]

More slow parts accumulation!

I got a slab of 6061t6 to make a Blaine style overlapping length for the rear gate sill that captures the corner armor.

The idea is to further tie the rear of the body together, especially after having torn it apart a few years ago.

I'm tempted to make mine wider with a longer rabbet to catch the additional bolts I added into the torque box, totaling four per corner.

Since the cost per cut was more than buying an 8ft length off the big sheet, I now have more than enough material for these little patch pieces that will bridge between the slider and the corner armor after the future stretch with the custom sliders.

 

[Mike_H]

When are you starting the in cab fuel tank?

 

[jjvw]

When are you starting the in cab fuel tank?

After I come to terms with what to do about the parking brake and if I want to extend the rear footwell.

But before a get distracted by a series of involved projects, I need to get the regear out of the way.

 

[Alex01]

After I come to terms with what to do about the parking brake and if I want to extend the rear footwell.

But before a get distracted by a series of involved projects, I need to get the regear out of the way.

Didn't blaine make a cool electric brake with an actuator? That'd be pretty slick.

 

[starkey480]

More slow parts accumulation!

Your slow parts accumulation reaches all the way to AZ!

 

[rasband]

Your slow parts accumulation reaches all the way to AZ!
View attachment 452605

If you're not charging for the floor space you're doing it wrong!

 

[jjvw]

Didn't blaine make a cool electric brake with an actuator? That'd be pretty slick.

He did. Linear actuators might be an option.

 

[Mike_H]

I would look into electric parking brakes. As they become more common, you can “source” used parts form the junkyard. Controls are tricky, but you can take the easy way and use Wilwood’s controller for 400’ish dollars

 

[jjvw]

Your slow parts accumulation reaches all the way to AZ!
View attachment 452605

That's a slow migration

 

[jjvw]

Yesterday we were able to run Holy Cross with @Bob in Texas . I saw that he had made his own overlapping sill plate and did a very fine job of it.

This is a close up of the rabbeted ends that capture the corner armor.

 

[jjvw]

Here is a quick and dirty way to make hub selecter knobs.

Prepare an original factory knob by...

... filling the unnecessary voids with wax.

Paint the knob with dish soap from the grocery store as a mold release. Let it dry.

Buy a tube of silicone caulk from the hardware store. This is GE Silicone III. Use a thin coat. Let it dry for several days and add another coat or two to make the mold sturdy. Let the final coat dry for several days.

With a razor blade, cut halfway around the perimeter of the knob and remove the original.

Cut a small hole to pour in the resin. Pour the resin and after it cures, you get a casting of the knob.

Add a resin dye during the mixing process to add color to the casting.

I'm about $40 into this. That got me three molds and enough resin for about 25 castings. I made nine, which I imagine is way more than enough for me.

Using a cocaine scale, I am mixing up 28g of resin to fill the three molds each round with very little waste.

Flashing from the cut seam and any little bumps from imperfections in the mold can be cut off with a razor blade or any number of things.

 

[deadbeat son]

.

 

[jjvw]

And if you have a cocaine scale laying around, it's reasonable to assume there are plenty of razor blades to go with it.

I offer up too much information!

Pro tip. Use a small spoon to drip the resin into the molds.

 

[Nickgsjeep]

And if you have a cocaine scale laying around, it's reasonable to assume there are plenty of razor blades to go with it.

My thoughts exactly…

 

[Apparition]

I offer up too much information!

Pro tip. Use a small spoon to drip the resin into the molds.

This size?

 

[starkey480]

Here is a quick and dirty way to make hub selecter knobs.

Prepare an original factory knob by...

View attachment 456686

View attachment 456684

... filling the unnecessary voids with wax.
View attachment 456685

Paint the knob with dish soap from the grocery store as a mold release. Let it dry.
View attachment 456688

Buy a tube of silicone caulk from the hardware store. This is GE Silicone III. Use a thin coat. Let it dry for several days and add another coat or two to make the mold sturdy. Let the final coat dry for several days.

View attachment 456687

With a razor blade, cut halfway around the perimeter of the knob and remove the original.
View attachment 456691

Cut a small hole to pour in the resin. Pour the resin and after it cures, you get a casting of the knob.
View attachment 456692

View attachment 456690

Add a resin dye during the mixing process to add color to the casting.
View attachment 456693

I'm about $40 into this. That got me three molds and enough resin for about 25 castings. I made nine, which I imagine is way more than enough for me.

Using a cocaine scale, I am mixing up 28g of resin to fill the three molds each round with very little waste.

Flashing from the cut seam and any little bumps from imperfections in the mold can be cut off with a razor blade or any number of things.

I’ll give you a giant pile of parts laying in my garage in exchange for a couple

 

[jjvw]

I’ll give you a giant pile of parts laying in my garage in exchange for a couple

We need to restart the planning again!

 

[jjvw]

It's my turn to be inspired by @starkey480. I built some tub rails!

Earlier this summer, I bought ten feet of 1x2" 6061t6 aluminum.

Today I cut two lengths at 41", ripped the width down to 1.625" and did a 3/8" round over.

I used the corner armor as the hole template. The length starts at the top horizontal flat of the armor at the door. And stops at the big rear radius.

The door end is through bolted into the corner armor nutsert with a counter bore to recess the screw. The remaining five bolts holes are blind holes from the inside and tapped for 5/16-8 threads using the existing corner armor holes and finished with a bottoming tap.

They need some light sanding and polishing sometime in the future to get rid of some saw marks. Since we may never get Savvy tub rails ever again, this is a pretty good DIY solution.