Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

jjvw said:
Some day, I would like to change to a 2din unit. Especially if I could find one with a real volume knob that I also liked the looks of.
Click to expand...

YES! I'm 100% knob! I need to be able to spin down or up quickly. My wife hates how much I change the volume throughout a drive, but you need to dial it in to the situation (highway vs local roads vs stoplight, etc) and the music (when the right song hits - I need to spin that knob up!! :cool:).

I liked that this unit had a knob. A button doesn't do the job...
 
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In SwitchPros news, I temporarily wired in the York, front bumper light bar and the auxiliary reverse lights override circuit. All work as they ought to. I'm very pleased with my control panel mount. It is firm and stable. The only movement is the solid click of the SP buttons. It feels really nice to poke at.

For basic on/off function, there is no setup. Just connect the switch power wire to the device. The installation includes connecting to ignition power as a signal to the controller. Default function is for everything to only receive power with the key on and automatic shut off with the ignition. Using the SP phone app, there is a lot of programming ability that I have not spent much time investigating yet.
 
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The minor big remaining portion of the highline installation is to rework the ARB compressor and locker switches wiring harness to send power via the SP to the compressor, which is also the interlock to the locker switch function. And I want to have independent locker control. None of the is difficult. I just need to study the ARB wiring diagram so I can connect it to the quick connect ARB plug that came with my SwitchPros unit.

Once this is figured out, I can begin the final wire organization. And maybe add the button stickers to the control panel.

Halfway done!
 
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jjvw said:
I reorganized part of the wiring harness that supplies the windshield washer pump power. That works again. And I found a pair of $29 NOS Mopar pump grommets to replace the original ones that have been leaking for over a year.
View attachment 527207

This was the first bottle fill up since reshaping the factory bottle to fit the highlines. And this was the day I discovered that I melted a hole in the bottle! So, I still have a leaky washer bottle. 😞
View attachment 527208
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Torch and an old flathead srewdriver will have you fixed right up. Okie plastic welding 101
 
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Rickyd said:
Torch and an old flathead srewdriver will have you fixed right up. Okie plastic welding 101
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I have a lead on a replacement factory bottle. This would give me a chance to do a nicer job on the reshaping now that I have had practice screwing up this one
 
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jjvw said:
The minor big remaining portion of the highline installation is to rework the ARB compressor and locker switches wiring harness to send power via the SP to the compressor, which is also the interlock to the locker switch function. And I want to have independent locker control. None of the is difficult. I just need to study the ARB wiring diagram so I can connect it to the quick connect ARB plug that came with my SwitchPros unit.

Once this is figured out, I can begin the final wire organization. And maybe add the button stickers to the control panel.

Halfway done!
Click to expand...

How are you looming?
 
jjvw said:
I have a lead on a replacement factory bottle. This would give me a chance to do a nicer job on the reshaping now that I have had practice screwing up this one
Click to expand...

If that falls through, I have one for you free, just need shipping. It's oddly shaped (but light) so I'm not sure what it would take $ to ship. But I doubt it would ever sell local and is likely garbage to me anyway so DM if you're interested if interested.
 
FarFire70 said:
How are you looming?
Click to expand...

I have several sizes of loom from Ancor and the nice tapes from Blaine.
20240427_123803.jpg

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I know many have moved to other looms but I like the plastic loom that you can easily add into in the future. I have a couple looms of 50-100' I picked up when I replaced the engine and replaced a lot of the OEM loom.

😲 What do you have there...? I used 3M 88 with zip ties to ensure it didn't completely peel when the glue wore down over time....
 
Most of a day to get the locker controls rewired and attached to the SwitchPros.

The SP has 4 circuits rated for 20amps and 4 rated for 35amps. The 35amp circuits have a pair of wires coming out of the controller. In this instance, I ran one purple to the ARB compressor and the second purple to the switches to send power back to the solenoids at the compressor.
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The compressor is an interlock for the solenoids.

This means that when I turn on the compressor at the SwitchPros...
20240519_192907.jpg


This also powers the front and rear switches...
20240519_192846.jpg


Only then will the compressor solenoids be able to be switched open and activate the lockers. The switches are independent of each other, as well.

When the compressor is turned off at the SwitchPros or the ignition is turned off, the solenoids automatically open up and release the lockers.

The only flaw in this arrangement is that if I do not physically switch off the lockers, then they will lock immediately when the compressor starts up. We shall see if this is a problem to solve.

Halfway done!
 
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jjvw said:
Most of a day to get the locker controls rewired and attached to the SwitchPros.

The SP has 4 circuits rated for 20amps and 4 rated for 35amps. The 35amp circuits have a pair of wires coming out of the controller. In this instance, I ran one purple to the ARB compressor and the second purple to the switches to send power back to the solenoids at the compressor.
View attachment 528296
View attachment 528304
The compressor is an interlock for the solenoids.

This means that when I turn on the compressor at the SwitchPros...
View attachment 528298

This also powers the front and rear switches...
View attachment 528303

Only then will the compressor solenoids be able to be switched open and activate the lockers. The switches are independent of each other, as well.

When the compressor is turned off at the SwitchPros or the ignition is turned off, the solenoids automatically open up and release the lockers.

The only flaw in this arrangement is that if I do not physically switch off the lockers, then they will lock immediately when the compressor starts up. We shall see if this is a problem to solve.

Halfway done!
Click to expand...

What’s your concern in activating a solenoid when the locker compressor is off?

Surprised the switch pros doesn’t have an order of operations reset built in to protect against activation on compressor restart.
 
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Apparition said:
What’s your concern in activating a solenoid when the locker compressor is off?

...
Click to expand...

Battery drain, as discussed earlier with the York clutch.

Apparition said:
...
Surprised the switch pros doesn’t ban an order of operations reset built in to protect against activation on compressor restart.
Click to expand...

The SP has no direct control over my dash switches beyond being able to send power to them. It has several layers of programming ability. But I am not utilizing those features yet partly because I am keeping my existing locker switches in the center dash.
 
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jjvw said:
Battery drain, as discussed earlier with the York clutch.



The SP has no direct control over my dash switches beyond being able to send power to them. It has several layers of programming ability. But I am not utilizing those features yet partly because I am keeping my existing locker switches in the center dash.
Click to expand...

Ok, didn’t realize you were still using the dash switches.
 
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