Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Following the highline idea, many of us are aware of the DIY highline that raises the factory fenders about 3" and also requires cutting the hood.

http://www.higherground4x4.com/Tech/Highline/HigherGround4x4_Highline_Instructional.pdf

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These are effectively free highlines with a notable compromise. Take note of the gap/step at the bottom of the fender. This could be covered up with wheel well to wheel well sliders. Additionally, the flares no longer reach all the way to the bottom of the body.
 
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Which leads us to the much beloved and no longer available AEV highline.
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This is not a true highline, despite the cut hood. Look at the step between the inner and outer fender in this image...
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The clearance gains from the AEV highline is similar to how Metalcloak and MCE get their respective gains. The raised fender increases flex and/or allows for a slightly larger tire. The interesting difference with AEV is that the interference point of the hood line is further inboard because the outer fender does not need to wrap around the intact hood. The AEV method provides more clearance than Metalcloak, but not as much as a full highline.
 
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Years ago while we were looking at an AEV kit on a trail run, @UnlimitedLJ04 told me about a guy who made a DIY AEV style highline by splitting the spot welds along the seam joining the inner and outer fender.
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Then he added a sheet metal step or wall, just like AEV, to create the offset. This would allow me to keep all the extra stuff I have crammed into the existing engine bay, while adding more room for the larger 35" tire without sacrificing my existing suspension up travel as much, if at all. This is a compromise that falls short of a real highline, but I don't need much in the way of gains. And the work doesn't seem any more involved that some of the other ridiculous things I've done so far.

And, most importantly, the Jeep will maintain it's understated appearance. At least as much as the AEV design allows.

I suspect that there are some required modifications to the internal bracing. But I've never studied the insides of the fender.

This is a ways away, if it happens at all. I will be running through another set of 33s before I seriously consider a tire size change. And a tire change won't happen before the body can be set up to make room for the larger tires.
 
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Are there many AEV Highline kits on the secondary market, and if so ballpark price?

I like the AEV kit except for the flares.
 
Too bad there isn't a way to trim those two low sections of the fender without compromising the rigidity of the fender. By trimming those two sections it looks like you could gain an inch of clearance.
 
Why not buy a second set of flares, then then cut out say 2" out of the flares and use plastic weld staples and plastic weld then into yours. Finish them off with nice and coat them with some type of non flashy coating? Maybe 3m trim black or something
 
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mattcogdell said:
Why not buy a second set of flares, then then cut out say 2" out of the flares and use plastic weld staples and plastic weld then into yours. Finish them off with nice and coat them with some type of non flashy coating? Maybe 3m trim black or something
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I have the exact same thought. If this happens, adding length to the factory flares would depend on what the final result looks like with the ww2ww sliders. Right now, those would be Savvy sliders.

Btw, the rear flares and wheel opening would also be enlarged and raised for the same reason. The rear flares would would also be too short.
 
jjvw said:
I have the exact same thought. If this happens, adding length to the factory flares would depend on what the final result looks like with the ww2ww sliders. Right now, those would be Savvy sliders.

Btw, the rear flares and wheel opening would also be enlarged and raised for the same reason. The rear flares would would also be too short.
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I really like the look of the diy highline setups ive seen but want to see someone do something to the flares so it doesn't look like an after thought. I'm not a big fan of the tube fenders but also not in need of a high line kit bad enough to pay whatever the aev kit would now cost.
 
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FYI, my dad started a build thread for his old CJ5 over on JF.
https://tinyurl.com/yagbaoga

He is recounting the initial build from the mid-1980's into the late-1990's. Eventually, he will start talking about its refresh and rebuild that started about a year ago after being parked for over 15 years.
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jjvw said:
December 27, 2016

Today I concluded my quiet experiment in laziness, ignorance and driving a month without a steering stabilizer.

When I bought the used Currie steering, I didn't get the mounting post for the stabilizer. When that arrived and I installed the steering, I learned that the new post is too large for the factory stabilizer. Weeks went by and I eventually bought a cheap new Monroe. I finally installed it today. It is small and black and you can barely see it.

This was an interesting experience considering how much people will fixate on steering stabilizers on Jeeps and lifted vehicles. Driving without one for a month was fine. My front end is tight and adjusted as well as my tape measure will allow. No wobbles or shakes. My only complaint was the increased input from the road and the steering reacting to the ruts in the road, but this was only a problem in that it was something I was aware of. If the Jeep wasn't my daily, I maybe could have gone indefinitely without a stabilizer.

With the stabilizer back in I do notice smoother handling and far less input from the road transferring to the steering wheel. Tracking is noticeably better. I think I understand better how a stabilizer is not intended to fix bad steering and poor handling, but is meant to soften and improve upon what is already there.
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When I installed my currie/savvy steering I purposely did not install the new stabilizer I had ordered to better understand its function. I will agree that without the stabilizer on a vehicle whose steering, suspension and alignment is all in order, you do not feel the need for one. Once I installed the stabilizer I found very minimal improvements. In the steering wheel you felt less road vibrations afterwards and that was about it. So it is very clear you do not need more than one stabilizer and it does not have any corrective fix for death wobble.
 
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jjvw said:
Part of my desire for my build is to keep the Jeep looking relatively stock in appearance
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I share the same desire.

I got a good compliment the other day from the guy who changed my tires (an older fellow in his 60s). He said, "Wow, when I first saw your Jeep I thought it was just stock with some bigger tires and a lift. When I looked underneath it I was blown away."

That made me feel good, since it's kind of what I'm going for. I want to retain as much of the stock appearance as possible, but still have it be as functional as it can be.

For that reason, I'd love a real AEV "Highline" kit if they still made them.

The Jeep West version looks good, but it looks kind of funky / odd around the grille.
 
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Chris said:
I share the same desire.

I got a good compliment the other day from the guy who changed my tires (an older fellow in his 60s). He said, "Wow, when I first saw your Jeep I thought it was just stock with some bigger tires and a lift. When I looked underneath it I was blown away."

That made me feel good, since it's kind of what I'm going for. I want to retain as much of the stock appearance as possible, but still have it be as functional as it can be.

For that reason, I'd love a real AEV "Highline" kit if they still made them.

The Jeep West version looks good, but it looks kind of funky / odd around the grille.
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The grille area isn't what bothers me its the flare gap between the bottom of the tub and fender that bothers me. It looks strange. Not to mention hacking up a good fender that much just to make it fit.
 
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mattcogdell said:
The grille area isn't what bothers me its the flare gap between the bottom of the tub and fender that bothers me. It looks strange. Not to mention hacking up a good fender that much just to make it fit.
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Yes, that actually bothers me as well, I'd forgotten about that part.

This is why I like the AEV highline and really wish they still made them. I realize it's not a "true" highline, and more of a compromise between a stock look and a true highline, but it's something I would be happy with.

Of course IF you do find one for sale, these guys want $3000 for the entire kit. It's a damn shame.
 
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