Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

strumble8 said:
That makes me wonder how raising the mount will effect the savvy mua mount that is in that position
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Either the hole gets opened up or the inner tab of the cross member mount gets welded to the frame.

At that point, there is also the opportunity to raise the skid by the thickness of the nutserts and shims.
 
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When you raise the back half of the frame does that happen after the 2 body mounts by the factory shock mounts? I would think you would want to raise that section of frame as well. Which would mean redoing the new outboarded shock towers.
 
jjvw said:
Further back in here is a link to another forum thread where the 6 factory side mounts were raised up, then the rear bumper mount is also raised. And then, since our rear upper shock mounts are only a gas tank mount, that can be lifted along with the tank. That leaves the front middle mount and the grill supports needing the body lift.

GenRight has a set of raised side mounts, as well.
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Here is your link from last year.

The cutting and raising of the rear frame is interesting. It would probably go well with a large Genright gas tank.

https://www.jeep-owner.com/index.php?topic=1528.0
 
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Different that what I had in my head. So that would eliminate 8 of the body lift pucks, leaving the 1 in front, and the 2 at the rear upper shock mounts.
 
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I had something more like this in mind. But without buying brackets to accomplish it.

Screenshot_20190318-213835_Firefox.jpg
 
One of several reasons I want to get rid of the squishy JKS body lift and replace it with Savvy is so that I can raise all these body mounts and know that the placement and loading is even again.

I'll get a pic soon, but I am missing at least 1/4" from my 1.25" body lift. There are at least 3 spots where that matters for my long term plans.
 
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It's the six t case skid bolts. The Savvy skid uses them rather than a countersunk flat head.

The holes in the skid are slotted to allow for variances in the frame side bolt hole locations. It's a necessary compromise for ease of install and keeping costs reasonable.

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However, these holes can be countersunk on the Jeep that the plate is installed on.
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I made a countersink with an extended pilot so I can match the frame side nutsert to it's respective slot
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The late TJ uses an M12 x 1.75 bolt. A 3/8" brass tube fits well enough into the nutsert to be the extended pilot.

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The piloted countersink I bought isn't large enough to fully recess the replacement hex bolt, so I am using a router bit to finish the hole.

Unfortunately, super glue is only good enough for one hole before the brass tube falls off. So I need to find some epoxy and be more patient.

One down. Five to go!
 
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I did see those popping out (and noticed them on my bumper too), just thought that was a trade off we had to accept!

Thanks, this looks awesome!
 
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