Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

jjvw said:
Make sure there are sufficient soft lines or ability to move between the pump, filter, manifold, etc. Any tubing that connects to things that are hard mounted.

A multi-port manifold block is very helpful for splitting the air to different points.

A check valve after the pump will help keep the system charged. I used a self bleeding check valve so that the York will discharge when not in use.

Make sure the clutch is connected to
ignition switched power. If not, the clutch's electro magnet will drain the battery if you forget to turn it off.
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Thank you! I can see myself overlooking a few of these so that’s helps a ton.
 
Some follow up on the recent skid plate bolt head reduction project. I noticed a decent scrape right where the bolt heads used to be. In the past, maybe I would have had a harder time wherever that happened?

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On a related note, I was catching the enormous rear bumper on rocks and ledges. This is further encouragement to replace the rear bumper and carrier with something lower profile and lighter.

This is my first time over the Rock Pile, btw.
 
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BuildBreakRepeat said:
Exogate and plate the back with one from TNT or genright? Or ORFAB?
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Swag Off Road or Next Venture bumper plate because I still want a hitch receiver. If new OR-FAB would re-release the non-jerry can version, then that would probably be the winner. I'm undecided with lots of time to decide. :)
 
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jjvw said:
Swag Off Road or Next Venture bumper plate because I still want a hitch receiver. If new OR-FAB would re-release the non-jerry can version, then that would probably be the winner. I'm undecided with lots of time to decide. :)
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Yeah I love having 10 gallons extra on my or fab but it stick out too damn far...I replaced the handle that comes out another 6” with a giant grade 8 1” bolt that’s flush but hangs over too much. Are either of those companies hitches rated? Or are you not really hauling heavy? Only suggested TNT (I’m looking into it for mine) because they have a 1” body lift option that covers the gap in the me back and have built in reverse lights.
 
I have a small 4x6 utility trailer that I use a few times a year. It's light.

A later goal would be to cut and raise the rear frame the amount of the body lift pucks.
 
The Savvy 1.25" body lift is ordered.

These are several nitpicky things it will help address by adding the missing height the JKS 1.25" can't, as well as what it offers through its inherent rigidity...

-More space in the wheel openings for tire cleanance. These fractions of an inch matter the closer you are building to the limits.

-More room for the exhaust. This needs to get redone after my poor work following the mid arm. The new extra room since the shock outboard and upcoming body lift replacement can only help fitting a muffler into the limited space.

-The last occasional rattle from the transfer case hitting the tub should go away.

-The even loading from the rigid aluminum spacers ought to minimize stress on the tub, reducing the deformation, rippling, and broken spot welds often seen in the sheet metal. Mine has failed spot welds at driver's side door opening that I might be able to blame on the body lift.

-The rigid aluminum spacers will firmly establish the space between the body and frame. This will allow me to raise the side body mounts and locate them with far more precision and consistency than is possible with the JKS. The same stage is set if I cut and raise the rear bumper at the frame.

-Restore the strength of the factory tub/frame connection by removing the soft JKS spacer.

Now I need to dig through my boxes of stuff and find the factory grill supports. Then I can sell off the old body lift.
 
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Well I made it all the way to the end. Impressive mods to your TJR. You really have put a lot of thought into your suspension and your whole Jeep. I like it a lot and now you have me thinking about how to best do my daughters TJ. I see a lot of suspension cycling in my future. She only has 30" tires right now but a friend in my club has a set of 2" springs. So I think I'll throw those in and then do a lot of the same stuff you have done. This should get her going for now. The biggest issue with her TJ right now is it still has the stock 3.07 gears. So that is my first big investment.
 
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Thanks! My hope is that this thread can show that many smaller refinements and quieter modifications can add up to a very capable and very livable Jeep that does not stand out in a crowd.
 
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Well I think you have accomplished that very well with your TJ. Mine isn't any where near suttle anymore. I really enjoyed reading and seeing your Jeep grow.
 
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jjvw said:
A later goal would be to cut and raise the rear frame the amount of the body lift pucks.
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I've done that a few times. It is wholly worth it. We have used the Swag bumper thing and cut a receiver through it and braced the back in to the other crossmember. Kept it very low profile by making it so you had to insert the hitch pin between the two crossmembers.
 
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mrblaine said:
I've done that a few times. It is wholly worth it. We have used the Swag bumper thing and cut a receiver through it and braced the back in to the other crossmember. Kept it very low profile by making it so you had to insert the hitch pin between the two crossmembers.
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Good idea with the hitch pin between the crossmembers. Did you keep any of the Swag tube step or is all the bracing done from behind?

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Before I leave town again, here are some shots of my JKS 1.25" body lift.

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How does your's compare? Stock or lifted.
 
And an under side shot of my rear bumper, factory crossmember and gas tank. I could pull the rear in about 4"!
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mrblaine said:
I've done that a few times. It is wholly worth it. We have used the Swag bumper thing and cut a receiver through it and braced the back in to the other crossmember. Kept it very low profile by making it so you had to insert the hitch pin between the two crossmembers.
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Where, exactly, does the cut fall on the frame when the back section is raised?
 
Sundowner said:
Where, exactly, does the cut fall on the frame when the back section is raised?
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Dig back in here a ways. There is a link to a build thread from a familiar place with pics. When I get settled later today, I'll post them if no one else beats me to it.
 
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Sundowner said:
Where, exactly, does the cut fall on the frame when the back section is raised?
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Right at the rear face of the gas tank crossmember. Move the rear section that is cut loose up by the distance of the body mount lift puck in this case 1.25". Weld the two ends of the cut frame together. That will leave a 1.25" section of the rear section sticking above and a 1.25" section below the rear section. Cut tapered wedges to fill in those two places at whatever angle suits your sense of aesthetics. I do a wedge with the leg against the frame about 3" long.
 
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mrblaine said:
Cut tapered wedges to fill in those two places at whatever angle suits your sense of aesthetics. I do a wedge with the leg against the frame about 3" long.
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Blaine do yo have any pictures of one you have done? Would like to see how your end caps look.
Thanks
 
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