I have a version that I have done that no one else will or should do.Blaine do yo have any pictures of one you have done? Would like to see how your end caps look.
Thanks
I have a version that I have done that no one else will or should do.Blaine do yo have any pictures of one you have done? Would like to see how your end caps look.
Thanks
Dig back in here a ways. There is a link to a build thread from a familiar place with pics. When I get settled later today, I'll post them if no one else beats me to it.
If you care to see how interesting, go look at the tank under a TJ and see how close the top of it is to the side of the tub.Okay looks interesting.
If you care to see how interesting, go look at the tank under a TJ and see how close the top of it is to the side of the tub.
By design. I don't do fancy, or much for looks. I prefer highly understated high performing function.I'm sure I miss half the mods because I just don't see them until they are pointed out.
Right at the rear face of the gas tank crossmember. Move the rear section that is cut loose up by the distance of the body mount lift puck in this case 1.25". Weld the two ends of the cut frame together. That will leave a 1.25" section of the rear section sticking above and a 1.25" section below the rear section. Cut tapered wedges to fill in those two places at whatever angle suits your sense of aesthetics. I do a wedge with the leg against the frame about 3" long.
Watch the end of the video a few posts back. Imagine if the bumper was both further in and higher up. The body lift is what allows the frame to be cut in order to raise the bumper.Might be a dumb question, but what is the advantage of moving the rear of the frame up instead of using a body lift? The crack would go away for aesthetics, but what is the performance advantage? It seems like any gained ground clearance won't matter because the gas tank hangs lower than the frame unless you put a fuel cell inside the Jeep. What am I missing here?
Form follows function. Things that work well often look good or at least look appropriate.Departure angle improvement would be my first guess, and aesthetics
In our case, we moved the gas tank back so it could go up. The net result is the tank drags much less. On the one where we just slid the rear crossmember up, it was done to improve the departure angle and tighten the rear bumper in closer to the body, also done to improve the departure angle. We don't care about the aesthetics of a body lift and spend no time modding to change that.Might be a dumb question, but what is the advantage of moving the rear of the frame up instead of using a body lift? The crack would go away for aesthetics, but what is the performance advantage? It seems like any gained ground clearance won't matter because the gas tank hangs lower than the frame unless you put a fuel cell inside the Jeep. What am I missing here?
I have a small 4x6 utility trailer that I use a few times a year. It's light.
A later goal would be to cut and raise the rear frame the amount of the body lift pucks.
I’m not sure how you plan on raising the rear frame but when I installed the outboard strut mounts I cut all the way through the frame, removed the 4 rear bodylift pucks, bolted the rear frame section to the tub and welded it to the strut mount. Ridiculously easy way to lift the bumper and fuel tank all in one shot.
Most of our builds wind up with the one under the grill and no others.Can you show pics of the cut? I've thought about moving the old shock mount/crossmember up to raise the gas tank a little further higher than it already is.
The funny part of this is that if I do everything I want to do, the only part of the body lift that would be left are the grill mount and supports!