Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
OP
It takes some contorting with just the t case skid, but yes. I don't know if having the engine skid half makes it more difficult.
Years ago when I had my YJ my driveshaft failed on the transfercase side when I was flat towing it. I was on a bridge and started feeling lots of vibrations from the jeep so I pulled over at the next exit and saw that the front shaft was disconnected and slamming between the tub and skid. Luckly I had tools with me so I removed the shaft and kept driving.
OP
There is one area on the upper driver's side quadrant (I think) where the 1/4" drive ratchet fits with enough room to swing. Each time I have removed the front drive shaft, I have needed to rotate it to get to the bolts. All of it is done by feel.
Thanks for sharing this. Very interesting observations. Do you recall ever noticing (consciously or otherwise) your 75mph vibration prior to your re-gear and/or installation of your 4" lift? Toximus also made the recent observation in another thread that he can't get his driveshafts to last long enough.
OP
It might be safe to say that my instictively comfortable top speeds have been in the low/mid 70s for several years and tens of thousands of miles. It's hard to relate this to a particular lift height since I'm fairly sure this has been the case prior to the raised skid plate in early 2017. So much has changed in the last 3 years.
What I should do is pull apart this drive shaft and see if there is visual sign of failure.
What I should do is pull apart this drive shaft and see if there is visual sign of failure.
OP
We all like comparisons, even if the photos don't really tell us anything!
The new Tom Wood shaft is roughly 2" longer fully extended and about 3/8" longer fully compressed.
The new Tom Wood shaft is roughly 2" longer fully extended and about 3/8" longer fully compressed.
OP
It's never fun spending fun coupons on maintenance items.
OP
I'm still thinking about the newish u-joints, ball and seal in the old shaft. At the time, I did wonder if I should just start fresh rather than rebuild.
$385 shipped for a front including all new bolts and straps. It hurts no matter what.
Woof, not as cheap as I thought. I've thought about replacing mine in the last year or so. 125k, I rebuilt it last year IIRC but I've also been experiencing a vibe at 70+ mph. I'm going to wait and see what happens once the new axle is in.
OP
Front drive shaft update!
After reading a bunch, I have decided to start from scratch and forget what I think I know.
The front pinion was low. I'm embarrassed to say how much. I brought it up the 0°, straight in line with the pinion. Toe in is right about 1/8". 77mph seems about as smooth as no front drive shaft. Steering feels a bit floaty, but this may be muscle memory. More time is needed.
Next I want to pull the springs, move the axle around to double check the steering and track bar and fine tune.
Those who know better, is there caster left to add without trouble? Or is this as good as it gets?
After reading a bunch, I have decided to start from scratch and forget what I think I know.
The front pinion was low. I'm embarrassed to say how much. I brought it up the 0°, straight in line with the pinion. Toe in is right about 1/8". 77mph seems about as smooth as no front drive shaft. Steering feels a bit floaty, but this may be muscle memory. More time is needed.
Next I want to pull the springs, move the axle around to double check the steering and track bar and fine tune.
Those who know better, is there caster left to add without trouble? Or is this as good as it gets?
I'm not sure about the the specific angles, but I will say that I immediately noticed more "steering float" on the highway after my tummy tuck install. After driving on the highway a bit, I don't notice it at all anymore. It was a bit concerning at first but I got used to it after some time. If it is smooth now (and more knowledgeable people than me chime in about dropping the pinion some more) it might be best to leave it and see if you can get used the the extra float. It really was overcoming muscle memory in my case.
OP
The float isn't bad. Just different during the 10 minute drive. It's tough to get away from traffic and road construction right now.
The float is real. I'm 0.7* high and at 4.7* caster, I'm on the edge. Still have front ds vibes.
OP
If you are building for ~6" up, ~6" down on stock fenders, 33s might be about the limit. This is also just before a Currie 4" front will unseat at 22.6"
33s (worn down to about 32") x 11"
full articulation
full lock
3.75" backspacing
~1.5" bump stop (more on that later)
1.25" body lift (a real one!)
Hard contact at the outer fender lip. If I pull the axle forward to fit into the cut out, my MC track bar and Currie steering will collide.
Hard contact on the rear wall of the wheel opening at the battery tray bulge and between the bolt heads.
Hard contact with the upper shock tower.
Not sure how Metalcloak fenders are supposed to work with 35s if turning is important. If ramps are what matters then a 35 will fit with some less severe rubbing.
33s (worn down to about 32") x 11"
full articulation
full lock
3.75" backspacing
~1.5" bump stop (more on that later)
1.25" body lift (a real one!)
Hard contact at the outer fender lip. If I pull the axle forward to fit into the cut out, my MC track bar and Currie steering will collide.
Hard contact on the rear wall of the wheel opening at the battery tray bulge and between the bolt heads.
Hard contact with the upper shock tower.
Not sure how Metalcloak fenders are supposed to work with 35s if turning is important. If ramps are what matters then a 35 will fit with some less severe rubbing.
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