OP
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
OP
Here's what I've figured out so far.
The wheels I bought are OEM JK. The part number is 1AH78TRMAE, which is a silver powder coat.
The machined version that I would want is 1BZ81TRMAB.
The wheels I bought are OEM JK. The part number is 1AH78TRMAE, which is a silver powder coat.
The machined version that I would want is 1BZ81TRMAB.
OP
I also got a chance to cycle the rear axle a bit last night. And I was able to measure a fairly new 35x12.5x15 MTRK. The MTRK is 1" wider than my current tire. With my existing 3.5" backspacing, that tire would brush the outboarded shock body at full articulation. I would be ok with that and maybe even 3.75". Any more seems like too much.
Two different sets of JK Moab with the Mopar star measure 6" of BS and they also have a made in China cast into them as well.
TJ Moabs that I measured in both smooth and machined face measure 5".
OP
Thanks. Very helpful.
As best as I can tell, JK Moabs are all the same 17x7.5 with 6" backspacing, 44.45mm offset.
This means I am looking at 2.75-3" of spacer to make work with what I have. So far, I haven't found that without stacking.
OP
Offset or backspace?
This is what I came up with yesterday, if the inner sidewall of the MTR was to stay in the same place as the current tire. Top is the current tire/spacer setup. Bottom would be the MTR I measured. I don't know if my drawing makes sense to anyone other than me.
And this is how much room I have at full flex with the current tire/spacer. Daylight is still visible at the top. I need to squeeze another 1/2" of tire width up there.
Backspacing. Or, you ideally want about 3 3/4" of backspacing for 35's. The less you get, the harder it is on your steering.
If you can’t find 3” spacers my offer still stands about doing some CNC
OP
Several of us ran Eagle Rock and Saran Wrap near Colorado Springs yesterday.
Not many pics. We learned how to make a shop press out in the woods to reassembled a JKS track bar that fell apart.
Now that my front bumper is small, it is only a matter of time before I damage the fenders. I caught the passenger flare yesterday and landed on the sheet metal on Holy Cross a few weeks ago. They might need to go away eventually.
Not many pics. We learned how to make a shop press out in the woods to reassembled a JKS track bar that fell apart.
Now that my front bumper is small, it is only a matter of time before I damage the fenders. I caught the passenger flare yesterday and landed on the sheet metal on Holy Cross a few weeks ago. They might need to go away eventually.
OP
I briefly mentioned this a few weeks ago. The rear axle now has a center limiting strap right above the diff.
While I was installing the replacement locker a month ago, I noticed that the rear drive shaft went into bind at full droop. I don't know if I missed this in the past or if something changed when I rebuilt the drive shaft earlier this Spring. Either way, I caught it before something bad happened.
Before Holy Cross, I made a strap with a couple chain links and cable, because the real parts hadn't arrived in time. Just before yesterday, I cut the chain and cable out to put in the permanent tabs and strap.
I started by extending the gas tank cross member a bit for the top mount.
Then I tacked the upper and lower strap mounts on place, cycled the axle and hung it from the strap to identify the stretch. Many adjustments later, I ended up with this.
This is a 10" strap. The tabs bypass each other at full bump.
The strap stops the axle about 3/4" before full shock extension, and maybe 3/8" before the drive shaft begins to pulse from bind.
When the axle hangs, it will pivot on the lower tab allowing the shocks to reach their full 12" extension during articulation.
I used the factory screw jack to mark out full shock extension and where I wanted the drive shaft to stop.
This is how the strap lives at ride height.
While I was installing the replacement locker a month ago, I noticed that the rear drive shaft went into bind at full droop. I don't know if I missed this in the past or if something changed when I rebuilt the drive shaft earlier this Spring. Either way, I caught it before something bad happened.
Before Holy Cross, I made a strap with a couple chain links and cable, because the real parts hadn't arrived in time. Just before yesterday, I cut the chain and cable out to put in the permanent tabs and strap.
I started by extending the gas tank cross member a bit for the top mount.
Then I tacked the upper and lower strap mounts on place, cycled the axle and hung it from the strap to identify the stretch. Many adjustments later, I ended up with this.
This is a 10" strap. The tabs bypass each other at full bump.
The strap stops the axle about 3/4" before full shock extension, and maybe 3/8" before the drive shaft begins to pulse from bind.
When the axle hangs, it will pivot on the lower tab allowing the shocks to reach their full 12" extension during articulation.
I used the factory screw jack to mark out full shock extension and where I wanted the drive shaft to stop.
This is how the strap lives at ride height.
Assuming you air down any time you're at full articulation, I wouldn't worry about some rubbing at full articulation.
OP
My concern with the JK wheels is that unless I can find a 3" adapter spacer, it won't just be some rubbing.
I know it'd take redoing the towers in the rear, but can you bump your axle higher otherwise?
My fenders get beat up every time I go off-road. I banged the passenger off a tree in PA a few years ago and bent it. I also scratched the hell out of the front of the passenger on Holy Cross. I want to upgrade, but not until I need to go to highlines.
This is also the reason I like some sort of step coming off my rockers. Gives me something to pivot off of to save the rear flare. I did that on my Savvy sliders on the way back down into French Creek. Without that step, I wouldn't have a rear driver flare.
The suspension and wheel rubbing stuff, that is above my pay grade.
This is also the reason I like some sort of step coming off my rockers. Gives me something to pivot off of to save the rear flare. I did that on my Savvy sliders on the way back down into French Creek. Without that step, I wouldn't have a rear driver flare.
The suspension and wheel rubbing stuff, that is above my pay grade.
OP
Full bump is pretty well equal to the lower arms contacting the frame. I would like to keep it that way.
I have a couple thoughts on moving the top mount of the shocks inboard a bit, but I haven't studied how well that would actually work.
How close is the mount to the tub? 3" of backspacing is going to be a lot.
Edit: I just noticed your above comment.
OP
Less than a finger. When the JKS body lift was in play, I needed to dent to tub to put the tower where it is without making contact. The reservoir hose was a squeeze to get in between. The savvy made a bit more room.
OP
The fenders and front flares are a problem on several fronts. I'm enjoying the thought of moving things up and away which would address many of the fender problems.
OP
My current 3.5" backspacing is workable. I just don't know how to maintain that with the JK wheels and a 35x12.5".