Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Several of us ran Eagle Rock and Saran Wrap near Colorado Springs yesterday.

Not many pics. We learned how to make a shop press out in the woods to reassembled a JKS track bar that fell apart.

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Now that my front bumper is small, it is only a matter of time before I damage the fenders. I caught the passenger flare yesterday and landed on the sheet metal on Holy Cross a few weeks ago. They might need to go away eventually.

Beautiful scenery as always. It's already started raining here. This happened over the weekend.

https://www.oregonlive.com/weather/...boro-rainfall-breaks-64-year-old-records.html
 
Does the front need to be the same as the rear?
Only in my OCD mind. I prefer that the back be narrower although in reality a 1-2" narrower track width isn't really enough to let the rear tires follow the same path as the front in turns. It helps, just not as much as I would like it to or perhaps as much as I think it does.
 
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Generally, previous recent maintenance was done and the snap ring wasn't fully seated. It looked like it was but you can tell it wasn't by the fact that it falls apart fairly soon after the work was done. ;)

During the diagnosis phase of the repair, I recall a brief mention by the owner of having greased and rebuilt the joint without a press. That didn't sound right to me.
 
Only in my OCD mind. I prefer that the back be narrower although in reality a 1-2" narrower track width isn't really enough to let the rear tires follow the same path as the front in turns. It helps, just not as much as I would like it to or perhaps as much as I think it does.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around why the rear is adding up to what I think I see or how to get closer to a 4" backspacing in there.
 
I'm still trying to wrap my head around why the rear is adding up to what I think I see or how to get closer to a 4" backspacing in there.
When it is articulated and the tire is touching the shock, how much room is between the shock body and the lower part of the frame on the drooped side?
 
When it is articulated and the tire is touching the shock, how much room is between the shock body and the lower part of the frame on the drooped side?

I wish I knew right now. All I know is that it doesn't hit, but I never paid much attention beyond that.

What I do know it that the frame cut for the towers is flush on the bottom edge and the top edge very close to that after the frame fits into the slot I cut into the Poly tower. Meaning the tower is almost parallel to the back wall of the frame.
 
I wish I knew right now. All I know is that it doesn't hit, but I never paid much attention beyond that.

What I do know it that the frame cut for the towers is flush on the bottom edge and the top edge very close to that after the frame fits into the slot I cut into the Poly tower. Meaning the tower is almost parallel to the back wall of the frame.
Mine typically wind up at zero on the lower edge and no more than 3/8" leaned out away from the upper inside face. I move the lower axle mount as far in as I can get it and still keep the shock body off the frame's lower edge with the mount below the frame just enough to weld around it.

If you really want to have some fun, set up some 2.5" coil overs back there with 37's and 14" of travel. Springs are 3" ID.
 
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Mine typically wind up at zero on the lower edge and no more than 3/8" leaned out away from the upper inside face. I move the lower axle mount as far in as I can get it and still keep the shock body off the frame's lower edge with the mount below the frame just enough to weld around it.

If you really want to have some fun, set up some 2.5" coil overs back there with 37's and 14" of travel. Springs are 3" ID.

Mine are within what you describe. The axle shock mount is inside the control arm mount and pushed inboard as far as it will go. Maybe that is where I need to look.
 
Mine are within what you describe. The axle mount is inside the control arm mount and pushed inboard as far as it will go. Maybe that is where I need to look.
Mine go outboard to the point where I trim the flange off the side of the inboard half of the lower control arm mount so I can get another 3/8" outward.
 
Mine go outboard to the point where I trim the flange off the side of the inboard half of the lower control arm mount so I can get another 3/8" outward.

I see. My lower is on the other side of the mount. That's about 3/8" further out on the bottom than yours. But that would be a very small fraction of a difference up on top. Maybe I'm being overly cautious.
 
Ok thanks. I am building a mall crawler and have planned to use JKS parts.

FWiW, I'm personally aware of two JKS frame side joints that have fallen apart. The one here was most likely an assembly error. The other was their threaded retainer coming apart. That bar was replaced with Currie.
 
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Another pic from last weekend showed up. This is the same moment. Something I never did when I had the chance to do when it was easier for me was find out how stiff I could set the Antirock before it would restrict the shock travel.

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According to the onlookers, the corners were contacting the bumps with the opposites hanging from the shocks. The AR is on the middle setting 10.75" front shocks, 12" rear.

I wonder if I could and should go stiffer on the Antirock?
 
That travel is impressive, you’re very quickly convincing me to outboard someday and extend the front towers - I want a little more up travel after this last week in summit county.
 
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