Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

That travel is impressive, you’re very quickly convincing me to outboard someday and extend the front towers - I want a little more up travel after this last week in summit county.

It's a very rewarding project to figure out.
 
Do you know about what the OMF conversion cost him? For what I'm seeing JK Moabs selling for locally, this could be a way to go for beadlocks in the future.

I planned for $1500 total. If I recall correctly the 16” Moab’s were $200/wheel. Shipping was about $250 each way (freight). They can also widen the wheels to your preference outside of what the modification widens them. There’s a guy on FB that’s been running them for years, and beat the sh#t out of them. I absolutely love the looks of the OMF.
 
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JeepTober 2019 was last weekend in Buena Vista. This is a loosely organized WranglerForum event that had been going on for many years.


Pics and discussion is here...
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jibber-jabber.18137/post-439791
Saturday was Chinaman Gulch. This is the Rock Pile. Lots of show off wheel stands.
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With great thanks to tworley, I now have a Savvy gas tank skid!

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Compared to my cut and raised stock skid, I only gained 1/2". But, I having been beating on the stock tank enough to begin collapsing it more than I think is ok.

What is really exciting to me is that, because the Savvy GTS is adjustable in height to sit higher with a body lift, this opens the door to raise the rear frame/bumper and remove the rear body lift spacers.
 
The Savvy hangs down 4.375" from the bottom of the frame. The dimple for the fuel pump sump sits about 1/2" further.
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And 5.5" from the rear crossmember.
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My cut skid hung 6" down from the crossmember.
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The factory uncut skid should be around 7" from the crossmember and about 5.875" below the frame.
 
Not sure if you have worked this out yet. But since you were having some clearance issues with the width of your tires.

Have you seen the new 35x11.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers?

They are load range C as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CL9V6QB/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I am leaning towards them for my wheeling tires.
 
Glad it all worked out! Did you happen to weigh the savvy skid? I want to say 32 lbs but its been a few years...
 
I didn't weigh it, but 32 feels about right. It is just a bit heavier than the stock skid.

Yesterday I was down around Cripple Creek. On the way home I smelled gas and found that I hadn't fully seated the fuel supply line after the install. It was an easy fix, but it made for a stinky drive.
 
Not sure if you have worked this out yet. But since you were having some clearance issues with the width of your tires.

Have you seen the new 35x11.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers?

They are load range C as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CL9V6QB/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I am leaning towards them for my wheeling tires.

Still haven't made any real decisions, except that the JK wheels won't work well for what I want to do. This has me thinking again about a 15" wheel.
 
This is still a ways away, but I wanted to see what the frame cuts would look like.
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I did the layout from scratch how it made sense to me, which ended up matching the only example I have found.
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Something I am realizing is that once the body lift gap is gone the bumper can't be removed anymore from above. And the gas tank skid can't be removed without removing the bumper. To remove either, the body will need to be unbolted and lifted up.
 
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The spare will need to be lifted the same amount to clear the hitch. There another argument for keeping a 33" spare in the future.
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Something that really interests me about this is the ability to raise the smashed tailpipe on the other side. The whole exhaust needs to be redone and there is already a bunch more room to work since the outboard.
 
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I want to throw out a ridiculous question.

Yesterday I found myself nosing the Jeep up to a rock ledge and pushing the bumper up until the tires grabbed. This had me again appreciating both the new bumper's reduced size as well as it's ramped face.

This morning I had an idea. Since I am already thinking about raising the rear bumper and frame to remove the body lift, why can't the same thing happen up front?

Cut the frame just behind the steering box.
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Raise up the bumper and steering box the same thickness of the three body lift pucks. Remove the pucks. Add an appropriately dropped pitman arm to restore the drag link.

Why not?
 
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