Dana 30 and 35 Upgrades

TheAntandtheMachine

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I am looking to upgrade my Dana 30 and 35s by beefing them up. Is it worth it to upgrade from a 27-spline to a 30-spline chrome alloy axle shaft for either axle? I am looking to pair this upgrade with air lockers and a regear to 4.56 for 33 inch tires. Not doing extreme rock crawling but I do go offroad and on decently challenging jeep roads fairly often.
 
For a locker in the Dana 35 you definitely (!) need to upgrade that axle with a Super 35 kit which replaces the 27 spline carbon steel shafts with 30 spline 1541H shafts. That's needed even with 33" tires once a locker is added. A super 35 includes a choice of several lockers.

Your Dana 30 is ok with a locker with 33" tires for most trails, I'd upgrade its inner & outer 27 spline shafts to alloy, like 4341, inner & outer 27 spline shafts. No need for 30 spline shafts up front with 35" tires for reasonable uses.
 
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For a locker in the Dana 35 you definitely (!) need to upgrade that axle with a Super 35 kit which replaces the 27 spline carbon steel shafts with 30 spline 1541H shafts. That's needed even with 33" tires once a locker is added. A super 35 includes a choice of several lockers.

Your Dana 30 is ok with a locker with 33" tires for most trails, I'd upgrade its inner & outer 27 spline shafts to alloy, like 4341, inner & outer 27 spline shafts. No need for 30 spline shafts up front with 35" tires for reasonable uses.

Been looking into beefing up my 30 and 35. Are the Revolution Gear 27 spline 1541H Dana 35 axle shafts good for up to 35”s when the Dana 35 is an open diff?

If one was to go to a super 35 kit and a mechanical locker, how difficult is the install? Just as difficult as regearing the diff or is it more plug and play kind of install?
 
I am looking to upgrade my Dana 30 and 35s by beefing them up. Is it worth it to upgrade from a 27-spline to a 30-spline chrome alloy axle shaft for either axle? I am looking to pair this upgrade with air lockers and a regear to 4.56 for 33 inch tires. Not doing extreme rock crawling but I do go offroad and on decently challenging jeep roads fairly often.
A used TJ dana 44 that is bolt in, can often be had for cheaper than just the parts cost for a Super 35.
 
A used TJ dana 44 that is bolt in, can often be had for cheaper than just the parts cost for a Super 35.

Is there any driveline modifications or is it a simple bolt in job? Would also need to ensure gearing is the same as my front Dana 30 so I don’t mess up my transfer case
 
Is there any driveline modifications or is it a simple bolt in job? Would also need to ensure gearing is the same as my front Dana 30 so I don’t mess up my transfer case
Driveshaft may need to be shortened. I cant recall what @JMT did, but I am confident you may just need a shorter driveshaft.

Dont forget that if you were to purchase a TJ Dana 44, selling the TJ Dana 35 after pulling it and installing the 44 would allow you to offset some of the cost. Something that the Super 35 wouldn't really allow.

By selling the stock Dana 35, while it may not bring in a lot of cash, the money could also help pay for a regear in the front if needed or in the 44, if needed to match the front.

Gear choice shouldnt be a hanguo for you, as you already stated that you have the desire to spend the money on re-gearing the front and rear anyways.


It’s a better way to go IMO. Some folks will advocate for the Super35 and they, themselves don’t even run the Super 35, instead they made the better choice in swapping in a Dana 44. What does that tell you?;)
 
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For practically the same price as the Chinese Revolution stuff, axleshaft wise, you can get American made shafts from Dutchman axle for the Dana 35.

You can get the American made Revolution axles as well, no?

I didn't even know about Dutchman until know. Is it 1541H?
 
I didn't even know about Dutchman until know. Is it 1541H?
Yes, they are 1541H. They can build them in whatever width you want, or remain stock. they can be be made in whatever spline count you want. And they can be be made in whatever bolt pattern you want.
https://dutchmanaxles.com/jeep-stock-replacement-axle-c-clip-pair.html
8BC12CA4-6F9A-4A6E-A001-98553394292A.jpeg
 
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Is there any driveline modifications or is it a simple bolt in job? Would also need to ensure gearing is the same as my front Dana 30 so I don’t mess up my transfer case
I did a Dana 35 to Dana 44 swap. I did change driveshafts. The one I changed for is about 5/8” shorter than the OEM with the Dana 35. Worked great. No complaints. I have the shaft if you want it. Just a small donation to make it worth my time packing it up and SHIPPING it. PM me if you want.

JMT
 
I was advised not to run 30 spline in the Dana 30. You can end up with the R&P being the weak link?
Not sure if a HP Dana 30 would offer stronger R&P to run 30spl axles or not. When I swapped out my 35 for a 44, I did not have to shorten my driveline.
 
I was advised not to run 30 spline in the Dana 30. You can end up with the R&P being the weak link?
Not sure if a HP Dana 30 would offer stronger R&P to run 30spl axles or not. When I swapped out my 35 for a 44, I did not have to shorten my driveline.
@Bowhunter, You can use the Dana 35 shaft, especially if you have some lift because then you need a longer shaft.
 
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If one was to go to a super 35 kit and a mechanical locker, how difficult is the install? Just as difficult as regearing the diff or is it more plug and play kind of install?

You technically COULD install a mechanical locker and associated Super 35 shafts in your driveway. The big what-if is whether it changed the bearing preload or gear wear pattern.

When I had mine, I paid a shop to do it. I want to say it cost me $250 for them to install it and I waited in the lobby for it to be done. This was ~10 years ago though.
 
I was advised not to run 30 spline in the Dana 30. You can end up with the R&P being the weak link?
Not sure if a HP Dana 30 would offer stronger R&P to run 30spl axles or not. When I swapped out my 35 for a 44, I did not have to shorten my driveline.

Running an HP30 out of an XJ is a viable upgrade in my opinion. A high pinion front axle is stronger than a low pinion. They are cheap to find too. I want to say I got mine from a stock XJ for a case of Mountain Dew or something close to it. Some have argued that a HP30 is as strong as the LP44 in TJ Rubicons. You can find threads on this debate.

If you are set on chromoly shafts and a locker, a 30 spline option is worth looking at, especially if the pricing is similar between a 27 spline setup and a 30 spline setup. If there is a price difference, I honestly don't think its worth it. The axle shaft isn't the breaking link from what Ive seen. I've seen stub shafts, lockers, yokes, u-joints all break, but have not seen a shaft break because of it being 27 spline.

For me, I am running an XJ HP30, and OE 27 spline shafts with a Detroit Locker. I have added the Iron Rock Offroad Almost Alloy kit to the axle shafts, and have wheeled most of the difficult trails in Moab without issue. One of my best bang-for-the-buck upgrades! I made sure to use Spicer joints, and has worked great for me.
 
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