Dana 30 crush sleeve challenge

Cajuncrawler

Member
Original poster
Joined
Oct 12, 2023
Messages
55
Location
Louisiana
Installing new ring and pinion. Doing final assembly after trial setup.
Seem to be having trouble crushing sleeve. I am using a 3/4” compact wrench (1500 inlbs rated). But little to no preload. Nut seems to have stopped. Before I resort to an extended breaker bar, is there anything besides the crush sleeve that could be limiting the yoke from compressing?
And which way does the crush sleeve go on the pinion? I assume the large side towards the pinion head as it slid down fully that way.
 
I have actually have started to crush the sleeve in a large vise with a long cheater pipe.
After it started to crush in the vise , it worked fine in the 12 bolt Chevy axle I was rebuilding.
Desperate times for desperate for folks. Good luck on your rebuild.
 
I have actually have started to crush the sleeve in a large vise with a long cheater pipe.
After it started to crush in the vise , it worked fine in the 12 bolt Chevy axle I was rebuilding.
Desperate times for desperate for folks. Good luck on your rebuild.

I had heard of using a press to get them started. My 20 ton did nothing to my stubborn sleeve.
 
Some crush sleeves are just a pain in the ass. As stated, it's easier to get a new one. The other option as mentioned is starting it in a press but I can never tell when it actually starts vs. it going to far and over crushing. Another option is a crush sleeve eliminator.
 
Some crush sleeves are just a pain in the ass. As stated, it's easier to get a new one. The other option as mentioned is starting it in a press but I can never tell when it actually starts vs. it going to far and over crushing. Another option is a crush sleeve eliminator.

Any chance factory crush sleeves are easier to crush? If they’re still available anyways. I could imagine a genuine Mopar/Spicer would be more consistent than whatever the gear guys supply in the MIKs.
 
Some crush sleeves are just a pain in the ass. As stated, it's easier to get a new one. The other option as mentioned is starting it in a press but I can never tell when it actually starts vs. it going to far and over crushing. Another option is a crush sleeve eliminator.

Do they make a crush sleeve eliminator for the TJ? I did a brief search and only found on the the JK
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Any chance factory crush sleeves are easier to crush? If they’re still available anyways. I could imagine a genuine Mopar/Spicer would be more consistent than whatever the gear guys supply in the MIKs.

I can't answer that question. I can take ten identical crush sleeves and one or two feel next to impossible to start. I can't explain why, but it sucks.
 
Do they make a crush sleeve eliminator for the TJ? I did a brief search and only found on the the JK

Well, after a quick search I can't find any eliminators for sale. You can find bits and pieces showing that they existed before, but nothing for sale.
 
The one and only time I've done gears, the kit came with 2 seals. We went with the one that looked most like the seal we took out. That ended up being the wrong choice, because we couldn't get the crush sleeve to crush either. Apparently the seal we used was a crush seal. Or a crushed seal, anyway. Make sure you're not pushing the yoke into the seal.
 
I believe I discovered a problem. I decided the take it apart because of an observation when I assembled it.
The bearing is not fitting over the journal. I thought maybe torquing the nut would press it on (first one I ever do) but it clearly is not going further. I checked the new bearing on the old pinion and it slipped on.
So I think the pinion is out of spec.
Do I hone the bearing to fit, machine the pinion to spec, try to get a new pinion (i spent quite a bit of time with setting it up)?

IMG_8244.jpeg


IMG_8246.jpeg
 
  • Wow
Reactions: hear
The tail bearing is a press fit meaning as you tighten the pinion nut the bearing gets pressed on. As you work through your setup you'll have to remove the pinion. You can use an air hammer or a big punch to get it to come out. Whatever you do, leave the nut on a couple of threads so it doesn't go flying out of there and hit the ground.
 
The tail bearing is a press fit meaning as you tighten the pinion nut the bearing gets pressed on. As you work through your setup you'll have to remove the pinion. You can use an air hammer or a big punch to get it to come out. Whatever you do, leave the nut on a couple of threads so it doesn't go flying out of there and hit the ground.

I might just not be understanding what you're saying, but it seems like his problem is the bearing isn't pressing on via tightening the pinion nut.
 
I might just not be understanding what you're saying, but it seems like his problem is the bearing isn't pressing on via tightening the pinion nut.

That's the way it works though.

OP .. Do you have the crush sleeve in when you are tightening the pinion nut?
 
The one and only time I've done gears, the kit came with 2 seals. We went with the one that looked most like the seal we took out. That ended up being the wrong choice, because we couldn't get the crush sleeve to crush either. Apparently the seal we used was a crush seal. Or a crushed seal, anyway. Make sure you're not pushing the yoke into the seal.

I might just not be understanding what you're saying, but it seems like his problem is the bearing isn't pressing on via tightening the pinion nut.

Exactly. I don’t think it is pressing on at all. On the old pinion I can press it on with my hand
 
Exactly. I don’t think it is pressing on at all. On the old pinion I can press it on with my hand

Check that the bearing numbers are the same from old to new.

You shouldn't be able to push the pinion on with your hand. I normally use a dead blow hammer to get it on enough to start the nut.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 707kevin
That's the way it works though.

OP .. Do you have the crush sleeve in when you are tightening the pinion
I did have the crush sleeve in. It was out during setup but I used a setup bearing for that.
I can check without the sleeve tomorrow to see if the bearing will press on but honestly I don’t think it will. Its a very hard stop and doesn’t feel like the other bearings that pressed on.
Maybe I have seen too many videos but I don’t recall anyone having to hammer the tail bearing. The BFH garage guy said it wasn’t a press fit.
 
I believe I discovered a problem. I decided the take it apart because of an observation when I assembled it.
The bearing is not fitting over the journal. I thought maybe torquing the nut would press it on (first one I ever do) but it clearly is not going further. I checked the new bearing on the old pinion and it slipped on.
So I think the pinion is out of spec.
Do I hone the bearing to fit, machine the pinion to spec, try to get a new pinion (i spent quite a bit of time with setting it up)?

View attachment 487942

View attachment 487943

to me it looks like the bearing isn't sitting correctly on the pinion. It looks like its at an angle.
 
I did have the crush sleeve in. It was out during setup but I used a setup bearing for that.
I can check without the sleeve tomorrow to see if the bearing will press on but honestly I don’t think it will. Its a very hard stop and doesn’t feel like the other bearings that pressed on.
Maybe I have seen too many videos but I don’t recall anyone having to hammer the tail bearing. The BFH garage guy said it wasn’t a press fit.

The BFH Garage guy says it's a interference/slip fit meaning that it won't slide on by hand. During setup, don't use the crush sleeve. If you did setup properly, that bearing would've been on and off multiple times. The struggle comes when trying to crush the sleeve at final install.