Dana 30 to Dana 44 swap

[cpwolf]

I would guess you need new knuckles but, the only way to actually know is to find a stock OEM tie rod end and fit it in there. Otherwise we are just guessing, fairly well but still a guess. Or, find a knuckle that you think it good and fit the Moog end in it and see if it is the same or better than what you have.

@mrblain

I have knuckles, I can do a flip on one for you. You will need to address the swaybar link mounts and raise them 1" if you do the flip. I like the flip and we do it a fair bit, always on stuff for our builds but you may have different needs.

Should I call Black Magic? I’ve only ever ordered stuff from your website.

I’ll start reading more about the flip, I’d do it if I have the skills to change the sway bar link, I’m not aware of what to do there

 

[cpwolf]

Don’t mean to hijack but that a CJ, have more pics/details?

View attachment 375306

Yeah, that’s my CJ5. I had a CJ5 with a 4” lift and 35’s back in College in the early 90’s, always wanted to get one again. She runs great bounces all over, gotta finish my TJ first ha.

 

[cpwolf]

This looks to be a pretty good video of the project

I watched and not much of a welder, but I can get it figured out. Doesn’t look massive. I could do this on my existing knuckle. Still have to replace the passenger.

 

[L J]

Should I call Black Magic?

Definitely. mrblaine provides awesome customer service.

 

[mrblaine]

@mrblain


Should I call Black Magic? I’ve only ever ordered stuff from your website.

Sure, 949-310-2727

I’ll start reading more about the flip, I’d do it if I have the skills to change the sway bar link, I’m not aware of what to do there

Folks who do the flip typically have adjustable swaybar links of some sort.

 

[Apparition]

No comments on the build except to say I see you're in Cedar Park, we're in Leander.

The dead center of precision, lucky.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

This looks to be a pretty good video of the project

I watched and not much of a welder, but I can get it figured out. Doesn’t look massive. I could do this on my existing knuckle. Still have to replace the passenger.

Same boat here. Some how I've managed to try two tie rods AND two knuckles (one brand new) and couldn't ever get it to sit right. Running washers now but I don't like it. Would like to do the tie rod flip but I'm waiting until the house is built and I can get a real 220V mig welder instead of the 120V flux core I've been using.

 

[cpwolf]

Don’t mean to hijack but that a CJ, have more pics/details?

View attachment 375306

@2001slvrstntj
My CJ5 is a 1982, I got it this past summer, but it's a 1982 body only ha. It's got the AMC 304 which is certainly 19 or earlier, Dana300 from 1980 I believe because it's the one year that was extra short. 4 speed from 80 0r 81 T176 which is a pretty solid transmission for my uses. 6" BDS lift springs and body, and 35" tires. It's got AMC20 rear and Dana 30 front Narrow Tracks that are older than 80, drum front and rear brakes.
I found Wide Track Dana 30 and AMC20 combo in Frisco, TX for $350, which is crazy good. I'm going to completely strip and rebuild them and get them on. The body is pretty darn good rust wise and it runs very good, has glass pack side pipes, loud as all get out, but fun.


It's pulling all over, so I need to get it tight, and it's running a stock type drive shaft but it's pointed at the TC, so it has a wicked shimmy and the caster is 2, so it drifts all over. I drove one for 4+ years in college that was worse, so it's all good ha.

 

[cpwolf]

Sure, 949-310-2727

Folks who do the flip typically have adjustable swaybar links of some sort.

My trip to India turned into Bronchitis and then Thanksgiving etc so this has taken a few weeks, but I got the knuckles out of an EvapoRust bath for a couple days, little wire brush here and there, brake cleaner, and just got Krylon shot on.

Looks like factory, it won’t be so shiny when it dries, but they look ready to put on this weekend.
Yeehaw, @mrblaine I’ll follow up on invoice etc.

Almost there (until something else pops up.

 

[cpwolf]

Okay, so I have the new Knuckles on, and hit a snag.

The Tie Rod adjuster sleeve on the Currectlync has a notch for the bolt to fit through. I can’t get the sleeve tight because the tie rod is turned as I adjusted toe in to 1/8. Now the sleeve close to the drag link won’t let the bolt in without hitting the drag link? Argh!

Any pointers on this?

I also have a small gap near the passenger top ball joint. It’s torqued to 80 foot pounds exactly like the sticky for torque specs lists?

This may be fine, just want to check, there is no wabble that I can see, it sits tight.

 

[mrblaine]

Okay, so I have the new Knuckles on, and hit a snag.

The Tie Rod adjuster sleeve on the Currectlync has a notch for the bolt to fit through. I can’t get the sleeve tight because the tie rod is turned as I adjusted toe in to 1/8. Now the sleeve close to the drag link won’t let the bolt in without hitting the drag link? Argh!

Any pointers on this?

View attachment 379947

View attachment 379944

View attachment 379945

I also have a small gap near the passenger top ball joint. It’s torqued to 80 foot pounds exactly like the sticky for torque specs lists?

This may be fine, just want to check, there is no wabble that I can see, it sits tight.

Use grade 8 3/8-24 bolts with nyloc nuts for the clamps. There are no gaps that can be based around a rubber boot as a reference.

 

[cpwolf]

Well, never mind I tightened it down and it is super close but never touches.

 

[cpwolf]

Use grade 8 3/8-24 bolts with nyloc nuts for the clamps. There are no gaps that can be based around a rubber boot as a reference.

Okay, dumbass post of the month. Freaking rubber boot, dam I missed that. So it’s good.


On the clamp, it’s not hitting, but I can switch to your suggestion if needed, but it’s not hitting back and forth just real close, ha

 

[mrblaine]

Okay, dumbass post of the month. Freaking rubber boot, dam I missed that. So it’s good.


On the clamp, it’s not hitting, but I can switch to your suggestion if needed, but it’s not hitting back and forth just real close, ha

My clamps have to point straight down.

 

[cpwolf]

My clamps have to point straight down.

I’ll get to Ace tomorrow and replace the bolts to turn them. It’s not hitting I don’t think, it get really tight, so I’ll make sure.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I’ll get to Ace tomorrow and replace the bolts to turn them. It’s not hitting I don’t think, it get really tight, so I’ll make sure.

You don't think if it's this close now that it won't hit when the driver wheel is stuffed, or at full bump? I wouldn't feel at all good about that without doing a suspension cycle check.

To get your bolts pointed down like Blaine suggests, I'd think you could disconnect one rod end, spin it out one full revolution, reattach to the knuckle, and then turn the tie rod halfway around and end up very close to the same toe.

 

[cpwolf]

You don't think if it's this close now that it won't hit when the driver wheel is stuffed, or at full bump? I wouldn't feel at all good about that without doing a suspension cycle check.

To get your bolts pointed down like Blaine suggests, I'd think you could disconnect one rod end, spin it out one full revolution, reattach to the knuckle, and then turn the tie rod halfway around and end up very close to the same toe.

I’m going to got to Ace tomorrow and get the bolts he suggested, no need to pull it all apart, just get the bolts, spin it down, and done.

 

[cpwolf]

Got it all set. I had checked the diff fluid, and it came out when I pulled the fill. And input it back in last week.

So I’m done and gear oil is coming out of the passenger. I was very careful and wedged under the axle shaft putting it back. I think some gear oil may have come over with the level being high when the shaft was out. I didn’t have any resistance that’s would have been the inner seal pushing in, so I’ll give it a couple days.

Either way, new Knuckles are clean and in, finally done with this stage, much appreciated help @mrblaine

 

[cpwolf]

 

[cpwolf]

Got the 3/8 24 2” and nylon lock nuts. Not sure why they don’t just include these but oh well, easier fix when someone gives you the exact bolts, Gracias.

Replaced, and Currectlync sleeve is $. Drive there and back, wheel centering was $ and with this heavy duty and new Ranch Stabilizer, it absolutely doesn’t wiggle or shimmy or anything (not that it did) but it drives 1 finger dead straight.