Dana 30 yoke and seal replacement

Gfacer

Gfacer

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Jan 31, 2024
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Langley BC
So I picked up a set of used axles for an eventual regear (4.56's for 31's as it gives room to grow and that's what I found).

The rear ZJ axle I cannot use except for the trutrac that is within it (and maybe the gears if the shop is OK with it).

The front would work and save me the cost of regearing that axle except it looks like the drive shaft is a CV style and my TJ is U joint. If I swap that out do I need to do all the shims etc or a crush sleeve?

Looking on youtube it looks like best practice would be a new crush sleeve (I am assuming its that and not shims - other than taking it apart how could I tell?) but I might be able to do just a swap and redo the preload? Just watched a video on swapping the seals and they did not redo the crush sleeves but instead marked it (and thread count). But as the yoke will be swapped I can't really do the thread count - I could only do 'until tight' and then verify with a torque test for the appropriate in/lbs of torque?

The gears in them were done by the same shop a few years ago (though I have no proof of that - sellers info) so not too worried about bearings etc.

Thoughts on this approach?

For crush sleeve it would be carrier removal, take everything out in order, put it back in order with new crush sleeve and then retighten? I can do this all on the bench but would rather not be messing around inside if I don't need to.

Thanks
 
I would search out a high pinion 30 out of an XJ before putting time and money in a low pinion front. The HP is stronger and will bolt right in. They get posted on Facebook Marketplace pretty regularly nearby.
 
Well thanks for the response but
1) I have this one
2) xj's are nether plentiful or cheap in higher ratios and usually in very unknown condition locally
3) this is an upgrade for just the gearing, the trutrac in rear is more a "while I'm at it". I don't plan on heavy wheeling at all.
4) I'm keeping the Dana 35 which relates to #3 which will probably be the weak spot as it is.

It's this or just regearing the existing in place LP.

This is a bolt in except for the yoke. Anyhow found a link referring to 2006 service manual pages 3-40 3-41 (if I'm recalling right) that basically says check preload before removing and retorque to 160ft/lbs which should be original preload plus 5in/lbs (if I recall). That is just for the pinion seal but should work for replacing pinion seal and yoke.

Was hoping for someone to chime in that had just upgraded/replaced the yoke or replaced the pinion seal and could give more of a long term update of the quick way on a dana 30.
 
I’m not sure about reusing the crushed sleeve and just using the torque method, maybe @hosejockey61 or @Blackjack can comment?

But if it was me, the effort needed to remove the carrier and get an exact preload with a new crush sleeve is worth it. You would just want to make sure you don’t fuck up a carrier shim putting it back in.
 
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Pretty sure I know hosejockey61's opinion from his YouTube comments. Ifs it's just a careful re and re I can probably manage, just don't want to get to interpretation of gear patterns and adding shims if I can help it. And since I'll do a gear oil change and lubelocker it's not too much more.

Of course still the issue of finding a way to torque crush sleeve to start...
 
I have researched this subject extensively in the last 6 months and have had great conversation with people who do it for a living.

While I was of the opinion of "to do it t correctly", I have since changed my mind. I still think the "technically correct" way to do it is to change the crush sleeve. However, a lot of shops take the shortcut of tightening it back up. In all transparency, a lot of the gear setters still believe in replacing the crush sleeve, so take it for what you want.

With all that being said, if one is to reuse the crush sleeve, I am the opinion that you need to remove the nut and clean both the threads on the nut AND pinion and apply a liberal amount of red loctite when tightening it back up.

Lastly, are you going to torque it to 160? Until it's tight? Until you think it's starting to crush more? I don't trust the method of putting a witness mark on the threads and pinion. There's just too much inconsistency in doing that. I have had crush sleeves go from starting to crush to over crushed in a little as an 1/8 of a turn. Pick a method you feel confident in and go with it.
 
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Probably check starting resistance and note then after swap, torque to 140-150 ft/lbs to be conservative, check resistance, increase torque in 5ft/lb increments until old value is reached or reevaluate if I get much over 160 and haven't reached preload noted.

I can't mark it as it will be a different part.

Can I use a new nut or should I reuse if reusing crush sleeve?
 
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