Dash cam hard wiring - is there a guide around?


t00th

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I know I read something or looked at something, because I hardwired my dashcam in my old jeep and I know I couldn't have figured it out myself. Looking to install the same setup in my new one. It taps into a fuse port - I remember getting advice on which would be a good one to use, or maybe one that should usually be empty.

I did a cursory search but didn't find much. Any advice on the cleanest way to route the wires from the right side of the dash into the fuse box behind the glove box? Or what fuse port to use?

Here's what I'll be using:

Camera:


Hardwire kit:

SD card:
 

pc1p

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You'll probably want to use one that is a switched 12V+ source, so something like the radio circuit...
 

osirhc

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I'm about to do the exact same thing with a similar wire harness/fuse tap setup to the one you linked. I'm not an expert with electronics, but this seems to be the way to do it. Maybe someone who knows more about electronics can chime in if there are any concerns with this setup. I wired some LED light strips in my Toyota a few years back with this kit which essentially came with the same kind of wire harness/fuse tap and it's worked well for the last four years. The directions instructed me to use a switched fuse that turns on and off with the ignition, like the cigarette lighter, which is what I did.

As far as neatly running the cable in my TJ, my plan is to remove the plastic trim around my windshield frame and run the cable behind it. I'm not even sure if this is possible though since I haven't removed it before to see if there's space, but that's my plan. If you have a pre 03 model though then you won't have this trim. You could use something like this to hold the cable in place up the A pillar and around the top of the windshield without being too much of an eye sore. I've used these, again in my Toyota, to keep cables off the floor and to secure the USB cable for my Android Auto unit to the console neatly and out of the way. For the dash cam, I plan to wire the fuse tap either into my cigarette outlet fuse, or another one in my fuse box that's switched (maybe one that's unused, I have to check my fuse box yet).
 

nk24

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Good choices on the hardwire kit and the SD card. I installed one in my LJ recently, which has the plastic trim around the windshield to hide the wires. I placed the camera behind the mirror so it wasn't in my line of sight or a distraction.

You'll use two fuse taps with this hardwire kit. One switched and one constant. Does your camera have a "parking mode" where it automatically records when motion is detected? If so, you'll want to use both. The hardwire kit has a regulator that will cut off constant power to the camera if it detects that the battery voltage is getting low.

I used fuse 15 (rear window defroster) for switched power and 3 (subwoofer) for constant power. If you have an earlier model, your fuses will be different. I found a bolt above the fuse box for a good ground, same location where my CB is grounded.
 
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t00th

t00th

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I'm about to do the exact same thing with a similar wire harness/fuse tap setup to the one you linked. I'm not an expert with electronics, but this seems to be the way to do it. Maybe someone who knows more about electronics can chime in if there are any concerns with this setup. I wired some LED light strips in my Toyota a few years back with this kit which essentially came with the same kind of wire harness/fuse tap and it's worked well for the last four years. The directions instructed me to use a switched fuse that turns on and off with the ignition, like the cigarette lighter, which is what I did.

As far as neatly running the cable in my TJ, my plan is to remove the plastic trim around my windshield frame and run the cable behind it. I'm not even sure if this is possible though since I haven't removed it before to see if there's space, but that's my plan. If you have a pre 03 model though then you won't have this trim. You could use something like this to hold the cable in place up the A pillar and around the top of the windshield without being too much of an eye sore. I've used these, again in my Toyota, to keep cables off the floor and to secure the USB cable for my Android Auto unit to the console neatly and out of the way. For the dash cam, I plan to wire the fuse tap either into my cigarette outlet fuse, or another one in my fuse box that's switched (maybe one that's unused, I have to check my fuse box yet).
Ah fortunately I did this before in my 2000 which like you said didn't have the windshield trim - both the dashcam and the hardwire kit actually came with a bunch of those little plastic clips with 3M adhesive on them, they worked great and while if you looked for it you could see it, it was really out of the way. I'd imagine for you with the trim, you'd have no idea it was there - as far as there being space I've definitely seen people route wires under those trim pieces before so you should be good.

For the fuse, I want the option to use the dashcam in parking mode so I think a non-switched fuse is probably ideal. Not sure which those are though
 
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t00th

t00th

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Good choices on the hardwire kit and the SD card. I installed one in my LJ recently, which has the plastic trim around the windshield to hide the wires. I placed the camera behind the mirror so it wasn't in my line of sight or a distraction.

You'll use two fuse taps with this hardwire kit. One switched and one constant. Does your camera have a "parking mode" where it automatically records when motion is detected? If so, you'll want to use both. The hardwire kit has a regulator that will cut off constant power to the camera if it detects that the battery voltage is getting low.

I used fuse 15 (rear window defroster) for switched power and 3 (subwoofer) for constant power. If you have an earlier model, your fuses will be different. I found a bolt above the fuse box for a good ground, same location where my CB is grounded.
Ah this is great to know - last time I did tap to a constant fuse, but not to a switched fuse as well. But weird, because it actually didn't even seem to have the ability to do so - the connections were entirely linear, there was only one place I could've plugged the tap in and it was the one I used for constant. The camera does have parking mode which I plan to use.
 
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t00th

t00th

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Bumping - did some searching and found a bit but still not sure what to do - Can anyone shed some light on what fuses are constant in a '97, or, of the ones that are constant, would be advisable/inadvisable to tap into for this?
 

pc1p

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Bumping - did some searching and found a bit but still not sure what to do - Can anyone shed some light on what fuses are constant in a '97, or, of the ones that are constant, would be advisable/inadvisable to tap into for this?
Poke around back there a bit and you may get lucky - many of the earlier models have accessory leads already setup from the factory for you to take advantage of:

IMG_2111.JPG


If not, the only fuse taps I would avoid would be safety or function critical circuits like ABS, wipers, and lamps. For as little power as this thing will pull, you can use ACC BATT for 12v+ constant and ACC SW for switched source without worry.
 

nk24

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Bumping - did some searching and found a bit but still not sure what to do - Can anyone shed some light on what fuses are constant in a '97, or, of the ones that are constant, would be advisable/inadvisable to tap into for this?
A multimeter will help you determine which fuses are constant or switched. For your '97, fuse #17 should work for switched power.